Will rooted ZZ leaflets die off eventually?
kelli
7 years ago
last modified: 7 years ago
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GreenLarry
7 years agotlbean2004
7 years agoRelated Discussions
Hardening off "water" roots
Comments (15)Is this a theoretical question or are there particular cuttings in mind? Babbling in general... For tough, thicker roots like those in your pic, Petrusha, pulling that plant out eventually (which sounds like the plan Asleep is after) would probably not result in damage. For something with fine, hair-like roots, many of them might be ripped off when trying to remove plant later. If one is going to trim the roots anyway, probably a moot point. Yes 'they' tell us the roots are different (water vs. soil) and I believe them, but still wonder if trimming for the transition is an invitation to bacteria or other pathogens? I wish someone would make a time-lapse video of a plant replacing water roots with soil roots. Wouldn't it make more sense to us all if we could see it happen? I'm sure the 'water roots' are able to function, though possibly more slowly (?) since I've had very few problems with this transition over the years. Ideally though, one would not have a cutting in water for a long enough time to worry about these things. As soon as one can see the cutting is inspired to start some roots, it's ready for soil, IMO/E. Very few things I would start in water at this point, after seeing how much better results are that I have by starting directly in soil. I don't think I've ever done anything but pull the plant out of the water and stick it unceremoniously in 'dirt' when doing such a thing, for so many different plants - unless the mass of roots was just too much for the pot I wanted the plant to go into. For the Coleus cuttings I keep in water for winter, that's how I put them in the yard. Maybe I've been living in a fool's paradise, but I have always been lazy about things that don't seem necessary, and have experienced retrospective irritation with 'instructions' many times. Like when one is hesitant to try something because of the wildly complicated directions. Experience has taught me that if you're too lazy for all that, just don't do it all but try anyway, in your own lazy way. Roses are the main example. I used to read all of this stuff about the trimming, spraying, fretting *needed* to grow them and avoided getting any for years. Then I bought a house with a few old roses that had gotten shaded as nearby trees grew larger. So I dug them up and moved them into more sun and had beautiful roses which I did nothing extra for, as if they were any other shrub. Easy peasy, no packages of stuff or strange routines needed. Not to say that those who fuss over roses are making any mistakes, it's just not for me. Either they'll do well or they won't, I don't want "fussy chem roses." The things y'all are willing to do impresses me very much, the level of dedication. Thumbs up to any attempts done in any way!! I love hearing everyone's stories, and I'm sure there are plants that would fail to propagate under my watch if I'm not willing to follow actual instructions. This was my favorite 'found' rose......See MoreWill my persimmon sapling die? I damaged the roots at the base.
Comments (1)NO BUT BE PATIENT....See Moreleaf die off
Comments (3)Hi ronaldo60, Its hard to say without photos but leaf rot could be due to overwatering. Sometimes with bananas the older leaves do tend to dry up and new ones in the center eventually replace them. However, if they feel mushy or are dying but are not dry it may be a root rotting problem. Even though you have them indoors with some heat and light, their growth rates may have slowed because the heat/light is not as much as it was outdoors. So they could be staying wetter down by the root areas. I know some tropical plants like monstera deliciosa will sweat when they are too wet, so it could be for bananas too. After checking out the water situation you could also try adding more perlite to your peat mix. Peat does tend to hold alot of water and the perlite with help with drainage. (You can always change the mix again if/when you need to repot in the spring/summer and they go back outdoors). I would try to bring the temperatures up for the young plants. I think 40s at night are probably too cold for these babies. If you get some heat in there, they will probably grow faster too. Other things to consider once the heat and root situation is fixed is you may wanna try misting the leaves a few times a day especially if the heater is on. If your oplants were larger I would say just let them go dormant but seedlings would probably die for sure. Good luck ~SJN...See MoreWill cutting large plants off at the ground eventually kill them?
Comments (3)A common technique for killing woody plants is to cut them down and then paint full strength herbicide concentrate (of about any type) on the outer ring -- cambium layer (just below the bark) of the cut trunk. The herbicide will stop new growth there. However, the tree could sprout new shoots from anywhere along the roots. No way to determine if it is prone to that except by anecdotal stories, such as ... I know of more than one instance where live oak was cut and the roots sprouted a veritable LAWN of new live oak shoots. Eventually, through mowing and herbicide apps. they succumbed, but in each case it took a period of 3 years or so. There is a lot of energy stored in roots....See Morekelli
7 years agolast modified: 7 years agolaticauda
7 years agotlbean2004
7 years agokelli
7 years agotlbean2004
7 years agokelli
7 years agotapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
7 years agokelli
7 years agoJudy (z-9. Bay Area)
7 years agokelli
7 years agoSans2014
7 years agoJudy (z-9. Bay Area)
7 years agolaticauda
7 years agoGreenLarry
7 years agoPhoto Synthesis
7 years agolaticauda
7 years ago
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tapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)