For the most part there isn't any real difference between various sphagnum peat products. There are brands that offer a more coarse cut, but they are hard to find. Because it's a small component, I wouldn't worry about it much. Not trying to confuse you, but I don't use peat in my mixes at all. My own version of the 511 mix is bark plus turface MVP. It is a little more pricey than the 511 mix, but the water retaining ability of the unscreened turface compensates nicely for the peat and removes the need for perlite. It's simply another option and results in a coarse mix that retains a lot of water internally. It's what I use for annuals and veggies for outdoor summer growing. I opt for less water retention and more structural stability for perennial plants, particularly those that will spend winter in my basement growing under lights.

How much sun does that partial shaded area get? Roses will do well with 5-6 hours of sun daily. It need not be all at once. I have areas that get a couple of hpurs of morning sun, then shade, and finally some afternoon sun, for a total of 5-6 hours. If the sun is filtered but is a available all day, that'll work too. If you want a climber that stays green to the tips in our area in the winter, Willie Baffin is one of only a few climbers that will work. First flush is magnificant but rebloom can be sparse. Most climbers in zone 5 have to start from scratch each year. Another one to consider is Quadra. It's acts more like a true climber with a better repeat, at least for me. William Baffin can get quite wide. I find it makes a great stand alone bush. Once trained on a trellis, it got too unweildy after a few years. This was mine the 2nd year. By the 3rd year it was way too large for the trellis.

Dave said: "And lastly, just freeze them first whole. Then when thawed, the skins slip right off and the cells have ruptured so most all the water drains right out of the thawed tomatoes. This is by far my preferred method. When the tomatoes are abundant (and so is everything else), it's easy to just stem, wash, remove any questionable spots, and toss into a freezer bag. Later, when it's cooler and other produce has been dealt with, I can remove from freezer, slip the skins under hot tap water and allow to thaw in a colander over a big bowl. You really don't even have to remove the skins if you're putting them through a mill like the Victoria/Roma. I save the "juice" (very thin, watery) for soup stock and either freeze or can it. Then run the toms through a mill. If you still need to cook down, I use a large roasting pan in the oven. At least I can do other things while it reduces and no scorching. I actually cook down at about 275-300. Many times it doesn't need much, but I still do it. It heats the sauce, ready for canning and seems to reduce the amount of separation in the jars. I usually use a combination of different tomatoes for the best flavor. Deanna

Thanks a ton for the fast replies!! ryanhughes "Why does the Carrier unit need to be replaced?" The heat pump(outdoor condensor unit)needs to be replaced as the compressor is going. Started making terribly load noise, making the walls vibrate with this pulsating sound, extremely loud. They checked "everything" else and said it was the compressor. I was told it alone can be replaced for $1500-$1700, and hence figured it may be best to just get a new one, until I found out about all this R22 vs R410, mis-matching etc. The tech who said it needed to be replaced is from my regular AC service company who does my 2 x year prevent. maint. on the units. My parents have a 9 Seer Air handler that is going on 20 years and they replaced their condenser several years back (2002) with a 14 seer, no change to the air handler, he saw huge savings on their electric bill and has had no trouble with the unit. How is that explained? Due to the tight space where this one air handler is and poor lay out up there, it is going to be extremely costly to get down and get a new one in. May need dry wall work and reinforcement up there. Dad is adament that I do not need to change the handler, but hey, he's not an HVAC guy just someone who didn't replace and is seeing great benefit and no problems. The first HVAC guy who came yesterday said he could replace the outdoor unit with a 12 seer max (if he can find one) but not to expect much of any savings, but better to replace with a 10 seer again. ($2400) Why spend that kind of money and see no efficiencies? Having 2 more estimates on Monday. He said he could also replace just the compressor for $1500.00. This is why it seems like it may be best to take a plunge and replace everything, but really I do not have 6K. If I get another R22 outdoor unit, what happens if the air handler goes in 3 years, then what? I have to replace this new 3 year old condenser and an air handler? There went the $2400 out the door. Or are there air handlers that can handle both, just not condensers that can?