For a bathroom of your size, a 110 cfm fan should be sufficient, providing it's actually exhausting 70 to 80 cfm. A part of your problem could be that the flex ducting is causing an increase in static pressure, which reduces the ability of the fan to move air. Changing the flex to smooth metal ducting might improve the fan's performance. You don't mention the type of roofjack or termination you have on the roof. Does it allow the exhaust stream to exit unimpeded? Does it have a back-draft flap? If so, is the flap opening properly? If it's stuck or doesn't open properly, that could be the source of your problem. Barring that, is the roofjack sized properly? If it's too small it could be constricting the air flow, which also increases static pressure, further reducing the efficiency of the fan. If you want to read a bit more about properly sizing a bathroom exhaust system, I recommend the Fantech website. It contains a great deal of good information for properly sizing and installing an effective bath exhaust system (be sure to check out the downloadable PDF files). The information you'll find there would apply in any setting, regardless of the exhaust fan brand you're considering or have installed. That being said, I have Fantech bath exhaust systems in all of my bathrooms. Not only do they operate in almost total silence, they are extremely effective. I never have a build-up of steam in my bathrooms, regardless of how hot or how long showers or baths go on. I haven't had a foggy bathroom mirror or condensation on windows in years. Here is a link that might be useful: Fantech Bathroom Ventilation

This old thread got revisited. @dani_m08 to answer the question about extra probe, I believe I ordered an extra one when I bought the set up. The probe wire is just setting in the junction box I think but honestly I cant remember. When I laid out the underfloor heating and the probe, I just ran another probe near the first probe, and it was then sealed into the floor self leveling compound as per instructions. then the end was just threaded into the wall like the one that would be live, and not connected, but just laying there in the box. Regarding the tile layout. I just decided to run it this way, after getting instructions on the 90Degree way, IIRC. The herringbone that I love is from my childhood and the side walks in my neighborhood that all ran at 45Degree. so that to me is herringbone. I know you posted on @sochi thread about her amazing bathroom and a wall mounted faucet. I would totally do it if I had the right sink for it. In my case I had made my sink out of soapstone and an integrated backsplash. The pictures of this bathroom reveal are no longer available because of the use of photo bucket, when it was Gardenweb. I did not keep my account with photo bucket. I'll add some of the reveal pictures so you can see the sink and floor. Regarding the sink there is no ledge for water to drip from my hands when using the faucet. The water drips right into the sink. In my other bathroom with a deck mounted faucet I am always wiping up drips and it is a nuisance. I much prefer the setup for this sink. Below: I love the flush finish from the faucet to the bottom of the sink. nothing drips on a counter or edge of a sink. Below: looking in from the doorway. Below: Here I am finishing up the sink. the backsplash was epoxied on as a separate piece. The whole soapstone install in the room took next to nothing to buy as they were all small pieces that I epoxied together with a 3 part stone epoxy. Below: this is the counter at the tub, and is in 2 long pieces but I was able to epoxy them together at there edges to make a wide slab for the top. All the soapstone was finished with a 60 grit sandpaper to be rough and this lovely soft tone of blue/green/gray/white. I did not oil it so this color tone would remain light. Below: If I recall correctly @sochi helped me decide on this Hubberton Forge Mirror. I have 3 different metals in this room, but they are all a cool silver to black color. Below: the center of this tower shares space with the kitchen on the other side of the wall. there is also some extra space that houses some electrical wiring. this is an old simple house. this bathroom was an add on when it got move to the farm in the 30s IIRC. The plumbing was all rearrange and some of the details that were orignially there I kept but updated it, such as this tower feature. The old one went and the carpenter did a wonderful job with this one. Below: This feature was another thing I kept from the old bathroom but flipped it from the other end and had the carpenter put drawers in it. Before it was a hell hole. things got lost and the build was soooo old and creapy I didn't like using it for storage. Now it is perfect for storage.

Bathroom fans are rated in "sones," and you want to get one that has the lowest sone number for your money. Sometimes you have to dig into the specs a bit to find this, but that spec, plus the reliability of the brand, are the key factors. Cheap fans will have high sone numbers and the quieter ones typically cost more. I agree with numbersjunkie that Panasonic makes good, and quiet, fans. Here is a link that provides some general info on sizing and noise levels: Bath fans Other factors to be aware of are making sure that: 1) the vent duct is of adequate size per the manufacturers specs, and 2) the fan exhausts to the outside, not just into your attic or ceiling space. If the ducting is small and/or you have an extremely long run, it can make the fan sound noisier, and be less efficient. If you don't exhaust to the outside, you could end up with moisture damage and mold. It's not uncommon for builders or subsequent owners to skip the ductwork if they can get away with it, so it's always good to check this.

In 2005, when we moved into this home, we had our contractor install a top of the line Broan fan/heater/light/nightlight. We replaced the heater twice and the light once. The advantage to the noisy Broan fans is that they sell parts! When something breaks, you can get that part and replace just that module. I figured I would go with them forever, but I kept burning out the heaters. When the light died after no abuse, though, I got perturbed. When I started planning for the remodel, I asked about the Panasonic fans at a couple of Kitchen and Bath stores. No one there had ever had a customer ask about ordering parts. "They don't break," I was told. So I looked for a fan with no heater (and decided to have a different secondary heating source, since I tended to run them too long), with a humidity sensor (since I could not remember to turn it on, having grown up in a house where we had no fans because the air leaks guaranteed no fogging!). I ended up with one by Panasonic that has the fan with both the humidity sensor and movement sensor. It is so quiet that the toilet seat drowns it out. If you stop and listen, you can barely hear it. It also has a regular room light and a night light. For heat, I went with a cove heater (electric radiant heat, up near the ceiling, that points down into the room and heats up objects in the room) that is made in the USA, thermostatically controlled, and a permanent installment. We now keep the bathroom door closed and enter into a toasty 76 degree room that feels really nice in this cold fall weather and will be wonderful come real winter! The reason I am so hard on heater units in vent fans is that I am now at home all day, so I do not have a regular shower time. I will turn on the heat to warm the room for a shower, then forget, or decide to do "one more thing" before going to shower. I never get there, and the heater would run for hours. Problem solved with my new cove heater and closed sliding door that I only have to open wide enough to slip though.