Miele Color Care Powder....First use!
larsi_gw
8 years ago
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larsi_gw
8 years agomamapinky0
8 years agoRelated Discussions
Washing Colours/Darks/Blacks on Very Warm (120F) in Miele W48XX
Comments (8)Are your clothes heavily soiled? Is that why you use such hot water on them? Otherwise, 85°F to 105°F water is sufficient for most loads (as you later discovered); and cold water (which is considered 65°-75°F) for very bright colors or those dark colors that may not be colorfast. Although a huge money saver over using the dryer, I found hanging laundry outside was my main contributor to fading. Now I primarily hang clothes to dry in the basement and avoid the bleaching from the sun. Clothes last so much longer when I hang them indoors instead of hanging outside or using the dryer. I agree with westvillager, over-drying clothing in a hot dryer will also fade them, along with the temperature of the wash water. All unstable dye is prone to fading - PERIOD, and not just from water temperature, type of detergent, but also from friction (with or without water). Even white cotton fabric can revert to the natural (less white) color of cotton, instead of the brilliant white it may have been new, after many trips through the washer and dryer. I have read where over-loading your washer can cause fading due to excessive friction. I also wonder if using so little water in washers today might also contribute to fading because the friction on clothes that have so little water to circulate in? Do you turn your dark clothes inside out? That is supposed to help as well. -Grainlady...See MorePersil/Ver Nel vs. MieleCare
Comments (3)The four variables that will affect cleaning ability are cycle duration, detergents/additives, mechanical action, and water temperature. Looks like you have the detergent part of the equation covered as both detergent lines are very good, if albeit expensive. However, if you are not getting good results I would look into the other 3 remaining variables, and check the following. 1.) Make sure you have a cycle with a long enough duration. I know a lot of people are always in a rush to finish laundry, and therefore select cycles with short wash durations. I get good cleaning in my front loader using the same products and the Normal wash duration is about 1 hour which gives me good results. I also use Wrinkle Free which is a permanent press type of cycle that has about a 45 minute duration. Unless I have a special stain or whitening requirement that would need a longer cycle time, an hour seems to be about right. 2.) Make sure you have selected a cycle that has adequate agitation or tumbling of the load. Perhaps you need a more aggressive cycle. 3.) And finally... make sure your water temperature is hot enough. I know in the US, we have a tendency to overuse cold water for most of our laundry. However, higher water temperatures are also key to getting really clean, stain free, bright and white clothes. Using hot water cycles also helps avoid the common mold issue in front loaders used in the US. (G*d knows how many a friends' front loaders have mold issues because of this.) Generally, I use warm water for most loads and hot water for white towels, sheets. Unless I'm concerned about fading or have a load that is relatively clean (really only needs freshening) opt for warm or higher temps instead of cold. On occasion for heavily soiled or stained garments, I have bumped up the temperature way above warm using 140 degree and higher temps for whitening or aggressive stain removal. You would be surprised that using hotter wash temperatures has not been a problem with excessive fading or shrinkage with colorfast cottons and whites, but you do have to be careful with synthetics and dark/bright colors. Also, if you have a stain that may set from hot water, see if your machine has a Pre-Wash option. Realizing that you have a different make than my washer (I have a Miele W1213), the temperature "names" are meaningless without noting actual water temperature in degrees. Therefore, my machine uses the following scale in fahrenheit. So hopefully, this will help as you experiment with your particular laundry situation and the temperatures your LG can actually uses. Cold is tap cold Warm is 105 degrees Very warm is 120 degrees Hot is 140 degrees Very Hot is 170 degrees, and Sanitize is 190 degrees. As a previous poster noted, many manufacturers temperatures are really cooler than the name actually implies, and thus "warm" is closer to cold and "hot" is really warm, etc... You can achieve hotter temps by selecting a higher "temp" and also, if your machine has the capability of "boosting" the temp with a "stain treat" or "steam" option or cycle, I would select it for loads where you need extra cleaning you are looking for. You may need to test some of these out with a thermometer to see how hot your temperature selections really are. These have been really good guidelines with my machines, and if you can set-up your LG's cycle to take cycle duration, water temp, and mechanical action meet these guidelines, you will basically mimic my Miele. You should start seeing better results. One last thing... make sure you are using ENOUGH detergent. Since you have a really big machine, you will probably have adjust the dosage upward. (I use between 1/4 to 1/2 Miele detergent scoop depending on load size and soil level.) One good test to see if you are using enough is to open the door after a few minutes of wash action. If the water feels sudsy when rubbing your fingers through it, then you most likely have used enough detergent. The soap produces a few small bubbles that you will see at the bottom of the washer's window; however you should NOT see a lot of sudsing. If you do so a lot of suds or see a lot of suds in the rinse water, than you probably have over dosed (ha ha). Good luck and have fun....See MoreMiele Care Products - Laundry
Comments (13)So, I'm just too "giddy" about this stuff. I did a fairly dirty load of whites yesterday. I used the Extra White (extended) setting but only selected very warm to see how it would work. I used the Miele Ultra White with just a touch of the FS. Load came nice and clean, white and smelling just softly. So happy!! I did a microfiber robe last night that had a stain and was getting a little "grungy" looking. I was tempted to use the sportswear detergent as it's for microfiber material but opted for the Miele Ultra Color and a scant bit of Miele FS. Used delicate cycle, cold and the rope looked perfect. It has a light pleasant smell but nothing overpowering. Gee, I really want someone else to try these so we can discuss ... otherwise, I'll keep talking to myself ... LOL. I looked up a professional cleaner in the Toronto area that has the Miele Wet Care system. If anyone is interested, they show some neat videos of the system at work. Someone had posted that the Miele Care (home) detergents were repackaged formulas from their professional line so I was curious. So far they seem to be doing a great job and most importantly for me, not smelling up the place. Really, just lovely fresh scents. It also proves that my Frigidaire must not have been rinsing as well. My friend had given me some Miele Care to try when I still had the Frigidaire and I found the scents overwhelming ... residue perhaps? I always use the sensitive option for rinsing on my Miele. Here is a link that might be useful: Miele Wet Cleaning...See MoreNew Miele 2012 Dishwasher: Best products to use?
Comments (12)@purpleplume. I'd fill the rinse aid resevoir for sure. The machine is made to work with rinse aid and it helps all drying. Also, check the little dial. I believe 3 is default but your machine is newer than mine so start with the default setting in the book. Sometimes this gets adjusted; sometimes not. Depends on the water. I would use NO salt until I'd tested the water and verified with Miele on the hardness cut off. I've had 2 machines now with no salt (in NYC it wasn't needed and in our house we have a whole-house softener.) Salt may not be needed at all. I've got pre-1900 through 1960s Rorstrand with blue pattern and gold rim. I do those on china/crystal. My machine doesn't have heated drying so I had no issues with the gold rims. But no idea about Lenox. Didn't worry though as initial rinse cycles are cold and the china cycle is 115 (with cold hook up) which is basically water warm enough to proof yeast. It's not even as hot as some tap water. But I'd ask about the temp of the final rinse as that may be hotter on the cycle. Waterford bowl was fine; Riedel is fine as is all the 19C American glassware. But with those, too, very little soap unless it's a really full load. I haven't used the new Miele tabs. I loved the old ones and still have some. Those were definitely safe for all the older china and crystal (I was using half until I noticed some residual left in the bottom of the machine which is when I went to using none on the good stuff -- there's so much rinsing and the cycle is so long it works). So if you have the Miele tabs I'd try cutting one in half when you're ready to wash crystal. But most important is not to have water that's too soft and too hot with more than minimal detergent. That's the combo that causes problems. Going step by step and testing is key. The one thing I don't regularly put in the DW is my Buccellati sterling. The plate is vintage Carnation and it didn't like the DW soap at all. Haven't tried it again with a no-soap china/crystal loads. I think it depends on the silver. I'd check with the Cristofle as their plating will be way better than a vintage set like the Carnation. BTW, we have switched out a lot of cookware so everything goes in the DW. I've put in All Clad, Demeyere and Sitram which are all SS with SS handles. 1 Quantum tab does a fabulous job with those on Pots & Pans. Do you have Express?...See Moresparky823
8 years agolarsi_gw
8 years ago
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