I drew the original plans and I'm drawing these. I would have to get out there and be climbing all over on a ladder to get lots of measurements. And it would have to be done after the concrete blocks foundation is in place to know exactly how its height relates to the house. The carpenter that is actually doing the work would be held up while all of this is done. His crew can stick frame it faster than that. I don't know what putting a steel roof on the house will do to the roof measurements. It would mean putting that roof on before I start taking any measurements. Otherwise I run into problems such as What if the roof came out higher than expected, or What if the garage floor turned out lower than expected. I have to remove about 8 inches of dirt. I can't be certain enough until it's actually being built. I'd love to use trusses. I just can't see it happening. Pooh Bear

To the OP or anyone else thinking of hanging any kind of chair or swing or bench using eyebolts: don’t. That is an accident waiting to happen. The only safe and proper way to attach something like that is with bolts going through the structural member that are secured by washers and nuts. Or by a specialty bracket sold for that purpose. And that is after the determination is made that the structural member can support the load without being compromised.

because I dont know the answer to my question and I am still not sure. I admitted that I hadnt thought of a hammer. I am not a builder and/or I hadnt thought of using a hammer. Pictures were to show what I have attempted so far and if anyone has experience with this or a similar situation. Its all in the question which you must have glossed over to miss my guess at the length of the beams. Do you have any other concerns I can answer?

Ok then, so what I saw on that specific joist has a 3rd "top plate" which was cut around it. If they cut it close, then that means the rafter tie may have moved out leaving the open notch. Or they gave themself a lot of play in the cut. If your rafter ties are just in tension, it is not ultimately critical that you are shy of 1 1/2" bearing, but it would be better and code, and it looks like the ones pictured all fall short. Especially if you are storing things or crouching up there on them, you should meet the 1 1/2" bearing. As far as stabilizing them from moving more, you could sister them with full length joists if you choose, but at that point you might as well remove what's there and size new ones for storage. Alternatively, all you really need to do is resist the thrust of a butt end. So you could place a 2x4 flat across 2 house ceiling joists spaces, then another turned on it's side fastened to this, then extended say 32" sistered next to the rafter tie. It all depends on how messy the house ceiling framing is and what is in the same plane as each other. What might instead determine how you fix the framing is how you are going to fire separate the garage for life safety. You need to do it. You either need to put 1/2" drywall and make a garage ceiling, or you need 1/2" drywall on a partition wall in line with the house wall extended above the attic all the way to the undersisde of roof (local AHJ may have stricter Type 'X' addendum). I am guessing that the size of rafter ties (2x6?) are to try and span the garage width, I do not know how they frame into the rafters on the short hip side though. I'd bet that there are no kickers on either long side hip down to these rafter ties either, if so, since these are perpendicular to the house ceiling joists, the long side hip ridge has probably sunk, the side wall has pushed out slightly (3/4" may be imperceptable to your eye), the 2x6's have sagged slightly, and all that together has pulled these rafter ties away from the house wall since they only had 2 toenails in them.