Our GC had a wonderful exercise for us. His assignment even before we met was to have DH & me write out our top 20 items/ideas for the house (in order of importance). We did this seperarately w/o knowing each other's top 20. We then brought this list to GC on our first meeting. This enabled him to get the big picture. We also took these lists to the architect. Along with this list, was a photo of what we desired & a layout we thought we liked. As the process has developed, all of our smaller, nitpicky items have come out. GC has appreciated the thought process that I've put into it all. He said it has made everything move smoothly. In the end, I will have less daily choices to make. Although I did SO much research prior to all of our meetings, I have welcomed GC's ideas & knowledge, as well. Afterall, we are hiring him for his skills, knowledge, & expertise. He has been doing this 30+ years & I have only just recently begun this process. I definitely would not go into this seeming like a total know-it-all or you will make GC's life quite unpleasant. Also, in all honesty, about 90% of our desires for our home, GC had already planned for, so I would really be looking for the best GC you can find.

Bleach will not kill mold. It can actually feed it. In simplistic terms, think of bleach as being "bleach" and "water". The "bleach" part, because of it's chemical make-up, will not penetrate into many materials. It doesn't soak in. It simply sits on the surface. The "water" that carries the bleach? It does sink in and penetrate many materials. And what helps create an environment for mold and mildew to thrive? Moisture! When people use bleach, sure the discoloration of the mold goes away because the mold that sits on the surface is indeed killed by the bleach, and the discoloration is "bleached" away. But the water penetrates, feeds the roots of the mold, and the mold will usually return. Try this product to actually kill the mold: Concrobium Mold Control. It's available at the box stores. Kill the mold, then prime with a primer/sealer from the Kilz line. Or with any other good primer/sealer that you can find. Then paint with any decent bathroom paint. The Concrobium will kill the mold and mildew. The Kilz primer/sealer will prevent any stains from the mold/mildew from being activated by the primer or paint and bleeding eventually bleeding through the final coat of paint. You can do more than one coat if you choose. Just read the directions for recoat times. My recommendations at least. Just an opinion.

Hi Super, >>> By "lines", do you mean RIDGES...as in poorly sanded mudcoats at the 8' edges, OR >>> thinly applied primer that you can see through to the mudded seams, OR >>> badly done butt-end seams, where a 4' end meets a 4' end?? These kinda joints have to be feathered-out a FOOT beyond the actual 4' butt-joint on each side. I'm wondering they were just lazier on the ceiling...since the walls are what you look at all the time. Separately, > How did they apply the primer? > What brand/series is the paint & primer? NO MORE paint & primer for now. Actually, Satin-sheen paints would only MAGNIFY flaws in walls/ceilings. Flats minimize this. Let us know the above details! Thanks, Faron

I had popcorn ceiling with asbestos removed recently and the GC did a fantastic job so I now have beautiful smooth ceilings. I believe it was skim coated and then painted and the finish is flawless. Your GC is recommending a solution which isn't as aesthetic because he doesn't have either the skilled workers to do it and doesn't want to pay the higher cost of more skilled labor. Labor is probably the most significant cost in any kind of home improvement Here's a before and after picture of my ceilings - same chandelier but different medallion or ceiling rose as the Brits call them :-)