Once the roots/soil mass of a plant become congested beyond the point where the entire plant can be lifted from the container with roots and soil intact, the growth rate is reduced. It continues to become reduced as the plant becomes more congested. What the man in the video did wasn't really root-pruning and a full repot, it was much, much closer to simply potting up. Repotting, which usually includes bare-rooting, and potting up are distinctly different. Repotting ensures your plant will have at least the opportunity to grow to it's genetic potential within the limits of other cultural factors, but potting up ensures it cannot. When a plant becomes as horribly root-bound as the one in the clip, it's growth would have been negatively affected for a number of years prior, and will remain permanently affected until the condition is corrected. What the man in the video did to the tree, did not correct the problem. He returned the tree to a pot in sad shape and the tree will suffer for it. Trees that are only potted up are in continual decline, even in spite of what you the grower might look at as a growth spurt after you pot up. What you as a grower look at as a growth spurt is no spurt at all, it is only a plant suffering from depressed growth, returning to a growth rate a little closer to its genetic potential. Here is what really happens and how repotting vs potting up works: Imagine that plants can grow with a vitality level of 0-10, with 0 being a dead plant. We'll say that the best we can achieve in containers is a level of 9, for the sake of illustration. Over time, say 2-3 years, soils collapse and roots get congested, which negatively affects vitality levels. Let's say that over 3 years our plants decline to a vitality level of 5. When you bare root your plants and do a full repot, removing about half of the roots and concentrating on the larger roots, you can return your plant to a vitality level of 9, and you can do it indefinitely - every time you repot; but if you only pot up, you cannot return the plant to a vitality level of 9 - perhaps only 8 is attainable at first. Then, while both plants are again in decline over the same period, the plant that was potted up might slip to a vitality level of 4 while the repotted plant only slips to its usual 5. Potting up again only restores the potted up plant to a vitality level of 7. The plant slides again to a level of 3, and potting up restores it to 6. Then 2 restored to 5, then 1 restored to 4. This steady decline may not occur after potting up only 4-5 times, but the illustration is what actually occurs to containerized plants that are only potted up. The reason bonsai plants can remain at the peak of health for hundreds of years in tiny containers and be passed from generation to generation is primarily due to the fact they are always root-pruned and repotted and not potted up. Al

redhairing... I understand how daunting pruning an overgrown fig tree can be. But, you are in luck. There have been a number of recent threads that cover this very topic. Search this forum, and you will see plenty of photos of hard-pruned fig trees. Also, You-Tube has some pruning videos. You will need a good, tree-pruning saw to establish the basic structure of the tree. I would not be too worried about "murdering" this fig tree, as they do with crepe myrtles. But you will have to decide where to make those initial pruning cuts to prevent this. You already know the basics of pruning. If you can, post some photos of the tree, and maybe forum members will suggest places for the pruning cuts. You have plenty of time. Major pruning should be done in the Spring, before tree breaks dormancy. You will also want to do this, gradually, over a number of years. Even if you screw up...and I am sure you will not...the tree will put out so much new wood that you will never know within a few seasons. Figs are one of the few trees that can be drastically pruned back, with few worries. It's done all the time to control rampant growth. Good luck. Frank

Sounds like your trees can use a root pruning session....but, do it next spring, before bud-break, just as the dormancy period ends. It's not too difficult but it is messy. Lift the trees out of the original, 20-gallon containers, and mix up a new batch of potting medium, then start trimming the roots. I'd prune back all dead roots and then trim/reduce the root ball by about 1/3. Wash away most of the older, depleted, growing medium, and replant your trees into the original containers, working in the new growing mixture around the trimmed root ball. Water the trees to settle the medium around the roots. At the same time, I would also trim back/prune away any unwanted, or, overly long branches, twigs, etc. Prune your trees back to the size and shape that you want. Stake the newly potted trees if it's necessary. As buds start to break, and unfurl, I'd give the trees a very dilute shot of your favorite "tonic" or fertilizer. Trees should be rejuvenated for the 2015 growing season, although I would try to limit the size of the fig crop by nipping back all new growth to 6-8 leaves. Pinching out the terminal buds after the first 6-8 leaves will also limit the length of the new branches, and keep your trees within bounds. Good luck with your trees. Frank

I'm pretty active in the gardening community, and am often called on to give talks/demos about pruning - probably an outgrowth of the fact that experienced bonsai practitioners can prune in their sleep. It's a popular program to talk to a group at someone's home and actually use their trees to demonstrate pruning techniques and explain principles. One of the most oft asked questions is 'When can I prune?' My stock answer is 'Any time you have a sharp pair of pruners in your hand.' For major pruning chores: wounds close fastest if you prune in the spring before buds move. This also prevents the tree's moving stored energy to branches you then remove - thereby wasting it. If you want to avoid excessive suckering and water sprouts, limit your pruning to no more than 15-20% of the above-ground mass of the tree, 10% is better - unless the tree is small and you can also prune roots with a spade at the same time you prune the canopy, in which case you can remove more and avoid the suckering/water sprouts. It's difficult to be specific w/o knowing what your goal is. Are you rejuvenating a multi-stemmed tree/shrub - reducing the height of a single trunk tree - pruning for appearance by removing crossing branches or branches that don't enhance the trees appearance .....? Al