NO plant likes root congestion. There are times when root congestion might serve the grower because it has an effect on the plant the grower likes, but that isn't a clear indicator the plant will like it. Tight roots cause stress and all sorts of physiological problems for all plants. It reduces growth, branch extension, and leaf size. It limits vitality and caused the shedding of older leaves proximal (closer to the trunk) to growing branch tips (apices). If anyone tells you that a particular plant prefers to be root bound w/o explaining what they really mean is some growers like to maintain a particular plant in root bound conditions, they're wrong. If "some plants" really did prefer root bound conditions, Mother Nature would surely have arranged the plant's genetics so it grew tight little masses of roots right under the stem ..... but we know there are no plants that naturally occur that way. That said, your plant probably isn't in any immediate danger that pertains to root congestion. You're better to suffer the limitations the plant is now growing under for a while in exchange for a more opportune time to repot, which for you would be next June. Plants have natural rhythms, during which their energy levels wax and wane. For major work, like repotting (which includes root pruning), it's best to ask the plant to endure the added stress of repotting or rejuvenation pruning when its energy levels are at peak - not now when they are at or approaching their lowest levels of the entire growth cycle. If you haven't read it, the link below should be very helpful. If you are wondering about repotting and how to maintain trees in containers for the long haul, this link offers lots of guidance. Al Here is a link that might be useful: Lots more info

redhairing... I understand how daunting pruning an overgrown fig tree can be. But, you are in luck. There have been a number of recent threads that cover this very topic. Search this forum, and you will see plenty of photos of hard-pruned fig trees. Also, You-Tube has some pruning videos. You will need a good, tree-pruning saw to establish the basic structure of the tree. I would not be too worried about "murdering" this fig tree, as they do with crepe myrtles. But you will have to decide where to make those initial pruning cuts to prevent this. You already know the basics of pruning. If you can, post some photos of the tree, and maybe forum members will suggest places for the pruning cuts. You have plenty of time. Major pruning should be done in the Spring, before tree breaks dormancy. You will also want to do this, gradually, over a number of years. Even if you screw up...and I am sure you will not...the tree will put out so much new wood that you will never know within a few seasons. Figs are one of the few trees that can be drastically pruned back, with few worries. It's done all the time to control rampant growth. Good luck. Frank

Hi, Steve: It's in a 14" pot. It summers outside, and I bring it in for the winter to a first floor area that's around 55 degrees, low light. It's about 4-1/2 ' tall, top of dirt to tip of branch, with only leaves at the very ends of each of three main branches (much like fingers at the end of your arm) and one secondary offshoot branch. Another friend got a cutting at the same time I did from the same donor fig. Hers is in a smaller pot (maybe 10"), is much more compact, hasn't grown much at all, but she gets 10-12 figs a year, and it's a lovely looking plant. She does the same summer/winter thing that I do. I can barely drag the 14" pot in and out now, so I'm not thrilled with your suggestion to repot into something even bigger! I was hoping I could significantly lop it back maybe in December. I can see where the new growth started for each year, and I was thinking that would be the place to prune. It's very successfully rooted. If I over-prune it, do you think it just might send out some new shoots from the root system? Thanks again for your help. Susan

I'm pretty active in the gardening community, and am often called on to give talks/demos about pruning - probably an outgrowth of the fact that experienced bonsai practitioners can prune in their sleep. It's a popular program to talk to a group at someone's home and actually use their trees to demonstrate pruning techniques and explain principles. One of the most oft asked questions is 'When can I prune?' My stock answer is 'Any time you have a sharp pair of pruners in your hand.' For major pruning chores: wounds close fastest if you prune in the spring before buds move. This also prevents the tree's moving stored energy to branches you then remove - thereby wasting it. If you want to avoid excessive suckering and water sprouts, limit your pruning to no more than 15-20% of the above-ground mass of the tree, 10% is better - unless the tree is small and you can also prune roots with a spade at the same time you prune the canopy, in which case you can remove more and avoid the suckering/water sprouts. It's difficult to be specific w/o knowing what your goal is. Are you rejuvenating a multi-stemmed tree/shrub - reducing the height of a single trunk tree - pruning for appearance by removing crossing branches or branches that don't enhance the trees appearance .....? Al