Donas - I think that because nearly all of the experienced gardeners shy from most commercial soils based on fine particulates is a good indication that they recognize them as inherently flawed. Some growers feel they are salvable, and others don't feel they're amendable in the sense that you can effectively add a little of this and a little of that and come up with a soil that performs as well as one would if you recombined the ingredients on hand in a different ratio. For example, many growers amend soils like Miracle-Gro with pine bark and perlite to help them drain better and hold more air, two characteristics usually less than ideal in most prepared soils. If you envision a jar of fine particles, like sand, that represents a soil like Miracle-Gro, in your minds eye you can see that adding ;large particles like perlite or pine bark in small fractions isn't going to improve aeration OR drainage. The small particles simply surround the large particles and continue to work against what you're trying to accomplish ....... until, the larger particles become a very large fraction of the whole. Dori uses a bark-based soil because when you START with large particles, the drainage/aeration so conducive to good root health is already there. Many others see the same advantage and use soils based on large particulates instead of fine particulates like peat, compost, coir, sand, topsoil .... The soils with reduced water retention, better drainage, and more aeration allow you to water properly, so you can flush the accumulating salts from the soil at will without worrying about root rot, and they offer the grower, especially the growers that aren't as experienced, a much wider margin for error - they're simply easier to grow in and make it easier to consistently bring along healthy plants. I'll leave a link to a discussion about soils for containers that's been active since '05. There is a lot of information in it. Feel free to join the discussion if you wish. You'll get a good perspective of how a large group of growers approaches the container soil issue. In the end, you could still use up your MG soil in combination with some other ingredients (pine bark/perlite/garden lime). You'll end up with something much easier to grow in, more conducive to root health, and much less expensive than purchasing a commercially prepared soil. You can even watch a video (compliments of Josh) that shows how easy it is to make. Also - see link below. There's a LOT more info there. Understanding the water:air relationship in container soils is probably the largest step forward an aspiring container gardener can make at any one time. Best luck! Al Here is a link that might be useful: More info

Great job! It is a beautiful shade of green that contrasts so well with the deep color of the flower. I wish I could post a photo of my Marie Lorraine plants for you, they are blooming their heads off. It is one of my favorites. It stays compact, but the blooms just get bigger and more of them with each bloom cycle. The color also gets richer and darker. The description says they are supposed to have fantasy markings, Mine don't, they have a wide glitter edge in a deeper shade of the same color, but no fantasy. I grow in natural light, so it probably does not bring out the fantasy the way fluorescent lights do. I am happy with them just as they are. It is also a strong plant, not fussy at all. The hybridizer is no longer with us, so treasure that plant! It is hard to get! I know how to post a photo to an email but I still have not figured out yet how to post to the forum. that will be my next project. Many folks have given instructions, so I will try to do that soon. The photos are saved on my phone. Joanne

to add to Kanielak, in 9 or less zones, it is better to wait to plant broken pieces or cuttings until spring to late spring. Branches kept cool but not cold will keep for over 6 monthes. Depending on your zone and climate, leaves will yellow and drop into the fall. Lower zones will often get deadly fall frosts so plumeria growers anticipate this and cut off the leaves to force dormancy and then bring the plants in before the frost period arrives. Bill Uploaded with ImageShack.us

They put more than one in a pot because it looks fuller, and they can sell more plants than waiting for the cuttings to mature. If you buy a mini from a rose vendor, sometimes you'll get more than one cutting in the pot, but more often you'll get a larger cutting that has more roots. See the link below for more help. Here is a link that might be useful: How to save a potted gift rose