Suzi: Chop it off and try training some of the other limbs into that area. Anything flexible can be tied in that direction. In a few years you can fill in the open area. It's also possible that a sprout will push in that direction. If it's from a scion train it to fill in. If it's from the rootstock that everything was grafted to, it can be grafted back to something you like.

Apples do not grow true to seed. Having said that, apples grown from seed are likely to carry along some (and often many) characteristics of the parents. Certain varieties in particular are known for passing on more similar characteristics in their seedlings. An example of this is the Snow Apple (Fameuse). This is the parent of the McIntosh and grandparent of countless varieties. The seedlings that you have in hand will probably have numerous traits of the Lady, but to get a true Lady you would need to graft a bud or scion from the parent tree onto another apple tree or rootstock. Remember also that a tree grown from seed will want to grow into a "standard size apple" which, depending on the variety, can be in excess of 30 feet. Most backyard gardeners would prefer a tree that is a bit more manageable, hence the use of size controlling rootstocks. With use of different rootstocks, you can control the ultimate size of the tree anywhere from around 5 feet to full sized standards. Most homeowners opt for trees grafted on semi-dwarf stocks. These limit the trees to 8 - 15 feet tall. If you have your heart set on planting a Lady are numerous places to buy them but the seedlings are always a roll of the genetic dice. Mike

FN what I'm actually suggesting is that if one could determine the actual potential consistent crop load for the various commercial cultivars then commercial growers could regulate their harvests to what the trees could efficiently produce annually. Obviously this is there aim already. This would inevitably be a ballpark figure as weather conditions affect a trees ability to store energy. In Texas you have (depending on time of first and last hard frost, year to year) a much longer growing season than those in the NE . I think this might give the trees a considerable edge as far as storing energy for its needs and ultimately to get consistent cropping. However, your higher temps and lower humidity levels are much more prone to being beyond an apples trees ability to function efficiently. The stomata must be closed for a good percentage of the hours in normal summer days there. Under plastic, this probably isn't the case, though, because of the high humidity there. Anyhow, I'm pretty sure there is a complicated choreography of factors involved in reliable bearing.

Applenut...that was one of my thoughts, to graft some of my other trees to it, never really did it before but I ' ll try anything once. I just wasn't sure if this tree is the problem and all grafts that are attach to it will grow the same like a rock with no taste. You can't even bite this apple without losing some teeth. Just thought maybe I should start over in this space where the tree is now. Thanks