it has been dry too, but i didn't think i would have to water it if it's already established. ==>>> correct ... but geez.. cut it some slack.. put the hose on a bare trickle.. and let it run for a few hours ... that ought to get it into fall ... i was in severe drought... from grass greening.. until a week or two ago ... i KNOW when i am in severe drought.. when my 17 year old lilacs start doing what your tree did ... in the case of old overgrown lilac.. i ignore them.. and the first good rain perked them right up ... besidees.. im not dragging hose around 5 acres to water 15 different plants ... in your case.. one tree ... water it DEEPLY ... hence the trickle idea ... i bet.. if you go dig a hole somewhere.. a foot deep.. you might find.. there is no moisture 8 to 12 inches down .... care to test that hypothesis ... yeah. sure you will ... when its not a hundred freaking degrees... lol ... ;) ken

The only information you have given us is 'they are the exact same tree' and that may be true but subtle differences in location can change variables in these cases. A boulevard tree, for instance may get some salt from snow plowing. A tree close to other trees will not get as much sun as others in the open. That's why you might see some trees already past peak with fall colors while others that are the exact same species still have green leaves. This year in my country, color change has been scattered with spotty frost pockets and strong winds. Some years everything seems to change at the same time, some years not so much.

i cant tell if you fert your lawn ... but generally ..... an established tree does not usually need any more fert than what its roots under the lawn can provide ... that said.. production citrus is way out of my ballpark .... and i wouldnt be surprised if it needed constant juicing to perform to expectations... see what i did there.. lol ... find your COUNTY Ag or extension office... it would be beyond belief.. that they cant help you with citrus growing in FL ... dont you think ... they might recommend you start with a soil test.. as a starting point to a fertilizer regimen ... ken ps: i you previously had a bug issue.. and solved it ... you do not have to treat for said problem for the rest of the trees life ... and it is highly recommended that you only treat when you actually find something to treat ... lets hope here.. all your problems are nutrient related ...

Watering from the bottom ensures all the dissolved solids in tapwater and fertilizer solutions remain in the grow medium. It can also upset the balance (ratio) of nutrients, one to the others, such that an excess of 1 nutrient makes it hard for the plant to take up enough of another nutrient (called an antagonistic deficiency). A level of dissolved solids (salts) in the soil that is too high, makes it difficult for the plant to move water to all of its parts with normal efficiency. Too, it's best to water slowly from the top, using enough water to fully saturate the soil and allow at least 20% of the total volume of water applied to exit the drain hole, which helps to flush any accumulating salts from the grow medium. The plant is definitely in want of more light. If you have a brighter spot you can acclimate it to over the course of a week to 10 days, it would provide a significantly greater opportunity for your plant to realize a larger measure of its potential, bestowed by Mother Nature. How do you determine when it's time to water the plant? Have you been fertilizing regularly? Nutrients are the building blocks plants use to grow and keep their systems orderly, so it's important when growing in containers that the grower shoulders responsibility for ensuring appropriate nutritional supplementation. Foliage-Pro 9-3-6 is an excellent product for houseplants, and it provides all nutrients required for normal growth, so it's all you need in the way of nutrients. Questions? Al