Maryanne and Turquoise: Again: everything depends on intended use. In any climate subjected to sub-freezing temps, let alone sub-zero, if a GH is to be heated and used year round, ground insulation is vital, presuming you don't want to spend more to heat the GH than you do your home. But for only seasonal use, and it's not fall season extention that's the challenge, as by the time the leaves are falling after a hot midwestern summer, the ground inside a GH is nice and toasty and will stay warm for quite a while, even after after the first frost. It's bringing it back up after months of hard freeze, when you would presumably want to jump start seeding plants. If I were planning only seasonal use and had no drains, I would still use foam insulating panels, but limit them to the perimiter and rent a Ditchwitch, to cut a deep, narrow trench all around the GH base and set them in upright. Also, I would install a drywell into the center of the GH, as a simple yet effective way to get rid of excess water, especially when the surface of the ground outside of the GH is still either frozen, or already saturated from spring thaws. For that, either rent a post hole digger with the largest auger, or get onto the working end of an idiot stick and start digging. To line a drywell, just cut out the bottom of a very large, tall plastic garbage can, set it into the hole, fill it with rocks- 4-6" road base stone is good, then lay a piece of heavy vinyl or aluminum screening over it, to prevent small stones and dirt from draining into it and eventually cloging the spaces beteween the rocks. That also allows the use of small stone for the GH floor, such as pea gravel. The screening will prevent the pea gravel from falling into the drywell. It also means a bit of grading inside of the GH foundation, but not much; just enough to aim excess water to the center. Then, lay heavy weed blocker fabric over floor, level with the top of the drywell, check the slope with a garden hose, and when it's all where you want it, fill in the entire space with small gravel. Road mix is easy to rake, and will pack down to a nice firm surface, but I prefer pea gravel myself. It's costlier, but also drains a lot better and is comfortable to walk on. Either way; no weeds or puddles. You can then use patio blocks or brick for your walking paths if you want, or just lay more fabric down, to prevent disturbing the small gravel. But for any drywell to be effective in cold country, it must be below frost line at the bottom. The deeper the better. If it's necessary to extend the length of the garbage can, just use two. Cut the bottoms out of both, then set the top one into into the bottom can to the desired height and run in a few bolts to hold them together. Once it's all in the ground and the outside has been packed in well and the center filled with rocks, it won't move or separate. Also: I admit that I keep harping on it, and maybe it's just me, but I will NOT have mice in my GH... If you lay 2 ft wide, 1/2" mesh hardware cloth just under your timber base and out, then secure it down, no mouse will ever burrow under the base and into your GH.

I went with a 2" layer of gravel, a 2" layer of sand, leveled it with a board, laid 1-1/2" thick pavers, and then locked them in place by sweeping sand into the spaces between the pavers. It looks good, it has mass, and water that falls on it immediately drains away; it has no slope: I decided against a concrete floor because of the potential for it being slippery when wet. However, if you decide to go with a concrete floor, slope it slightly to the center and have a drain there rather than having it slope to the side. Greenhouse floors get dirty and you want to be able to clean/sweep it easily. I am always dropping things like potting soil and plant parts on the floor. If you have a floor that is loose, like rock or gravel, it will be impossible to clean up: you will have dirt building up over time in the crevices and you may also get stuff you don't want growing there. The subject of greenhouse flooring choices has been covered a lot in this forum. Take a look at the threads below and you will get all the opinions you need. Here is a link that might be useful: GH flooring

The tomatoes and sweet peppers will benefit from a greenhouse, as would eggplant, okra, other hot climate stuff. All the other vegetables you mention do fine outdoors; in a greenhouse they may mature or ripen faster. Summer and winter squash take up a lot of space. There are some smaller zucchini varieties available. Cucumbers can be trained to a small or vertical area. --------------- What kind of temperature control and air movement will your greenhouse have?

hermustangs, if you'll read the "new to GW" thread below on this page (or if it's left this page by the time you read this, search for it) you'll find explicit instructions on how to post photos; very easy to do. I think you'll get many more responses if you include photos. I'm not good enough with colors personally to try to answer your questions without seeing the rooms. Good luck!