That looks like some type of inorganic problem. You haven't used any weed killer (glyco, etc) in the area have you? IT can really drift and a very light exposure would causes plants to look this way. Certain other chemicals could do the same, as could salt or certain other things. Any chance you got the dirt from an area that had been exposed to some inorganic substance? Give some thought to these scenarios and any substance that could have affected the plants or soil. Of course, its just one of many possibilities. Good luck.

Microorganisms live on plants roots, just as microorganisms live inside our guts. Washing off the dirt probably took most of the microorganisms with it. ( I killed a plant that way once. It had bugs in the soil, so I rinsed the soil off, the plant then promptly died) container depth should be deeper as you suspected. Beans sprout easily from seed. I have some bush wax beans seeds, for beans the that do not get very tall. Root system should be shorter too. I would select veggies varieties from higher latitudes so they are accustomed to less light. Green beans I would think need more light than a pepper, but I am guessing. Tomatoes (which are in the same family) grew on the forest floor in the wild, or so I read.

I too have the same problem. I am growing perennial beans in a greenhouse because it still snowing outdoors. I am growing lima beans, winged beans, runner beans, cow peas, snap peas, climbing beans, siberian pea shrub, groundnut (apios), peanut and pigeon peas. One cause of the yellowing is lack of sunlight. And even artificial lights do not work so well in the bean family as with other plants. The other families also very needy for strong sunlight are the C4 metabolism plants like corn and a few grasses, and the amaranth family. Another cause is excessive is excessive watering. In my experience, beans like dry soil in between deep waterings. Sometimes you might see that the soil surface is dry at a shallow level but its not deep down. Still some of my plants responded well when I fertilize them with an organic full fertilizer, namely the siberian pea and the lima beans (which started forming pods). The cowpeas were heavily affected by aphids but the ones in a drier kind of soil grow much better than the other ones. One pigeon pea is dying; could also be that its a combination of both lack of strong warm sunlight and a bit too moist soil. The winged beans are completely yellowing, and I still do not find the cause for it, but apparently the bean family can suffer in many ways, and these many reasons cause yellowing. Sometimes the plants also yellow as they suddenly stop their fast growth. It could be ultimately a lack of their nodule bacteria or fungi. For this, I just ordered now some full spectrum mycorrhiza and added some vermicompost to the soil where I am planting most bean family species. I will see what happens. Or it can also be lack of a trace nutrient or a disease. But since I watered with a full spectrum fertilizer (and also tried lime) and this has only fixed the siberian pea but not the other legumes, I think its not the main cause. I think lack of mycorrhiza or a soil problem/ disease, couple with lack of sunlight and excessive watering are the main reason for legume yellowing.

Bubbadillo, I confess to being somewhat baffled by this. It looks "kind of, sort of" like several things, but not really like any of them. Because both the Burneyville Mesonet station and our house went down to 31 degrees in the early hours of the morning of May 3rd, I was leaning towards some sort of patchy freeze or frost damage. However, I've never seen such widespread patchy damage like this attributed to marginally cold weather like you had at 38 degrees. I have seen similar damage when plants were covered with plastic to keep the frost off. Any place the plant actually touched the plastic during the time that frost occurred, you saw damage similar to what is on your plants. However, on the plants I saw it on, each plant had a mere handful of spots. Your spotting is incredibly widespread. If you had just purchased the tomato plants and just transplanted them into their containers, I'd think they weren't properly hardened off and had sunscald. However, if you've had them for five weeks, then surely you've had them in the sun for most of that time. It bothers me that the plants at two separate stores and at your house show the same symptoms and that points to some sort of environmental stress. It is unlikely the plants in the stores now are the same ones that were there 5 weeks ago when you purchased your plants. Thus, a disease seems unlikely to have suddenly popped up in your plants that you've had 5 weeks and also in newer shipments of plants at that exact same time. If BP had been shipping diseased bean plants and tomato plants for 5 weeks, we all would have heard about it by now. It also looks a little like several nutritional deficiencies, but not enough like one specific deficiency that I think that is the answer. Tomato foliage issues are notoriously hard to diagnose from photos because we lack context. For example, if I see a slight problem developing today, I'm checking the plant day to day and I know how and when it started, what the conditions were like, how it looked the next day, and then the next and the next. All that time, I'm noting how it is or isn't progressing and also whether any thing I am doing is helping it or not. Looking at one photo taken on one day doesn't give us that context. Having said all of that, yours doesn't look like an disease damage I've ever seen. However, my experience with tomato diseases is limited to just a handful of issues like early blight, late blight, septoria leaf spot, bacterial speck, bacterial spot, tomato spotted wilt, bacterial wilt, cloudy spot, tomato yellow leaf curl, curly top, southern blight, BER (actually a physiological issue, not a disease), fusarium wilt and pith necrosis. That sounds like a lot, but I've grown tomatoes a lot of years and have only seen each of those a couple of times in my own garden. For example, I've only seen southern blight once and tomato spotted wilt once. There are many, many more diseases out there that I've never seen first-hand. Are there any other vegetable plants nearby that this is not appearing on? If so, what are they? That might give us a clue. And, FYI, frost can form at 38 or 39 degrees under some conditions. Carol, Maybe it his malation damage, but it seems odd it would show up at his plants he's had for 5 weeks the very same time it showed up on plants in Ardmore. I suppose stranger things have happened? Bubbadillo, I just had another thought. Have your plants had minor hail damage in the last week? We had very small hail here at our house and also down in Thackerville on Sunday afternoon. At our house this hail was not large enough to hurt the leaves, but after the previous hail a couple of weeks ago, (that hail which quite a bit larger), I had a lot of damage and everywhere the onion leaves were hit by hail, there are little bad spots kind of like what you have on your plants. Dawn