60 inch hood
gwlake
8 years ago
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Is this price correct for subzero/wolf appliances
Comments (24)"We should have a thread to keep track of Sub Zero pricing!" No, we shouldn't. It's a total waste of bandwidth. If you are curious about SZ or other pricing and are too lazy to call or email a dealer, then just post a thread here about your specific item and you'll probably get a response. Otherwise people just see outdated info and work themselves into a lather because they are getting ripped off. This thread is FOUR YEARS OLD ! ! ! In addition, SZ/WOLF have hundreds of items - too many to keep track of and updated in a forum like this. "Does anyone think it'd be worth it to see if there are cheaper ones in Reno, NV" I'm sure you'll find someone to indulge your price sensitivity, but even if a dealer in NV can sell/deliver to SanFran I'd be extremely surprised if you can save any money. You'll have a sizable freight charge off the bat, and SZ prices are pretty much fixed across the country so the price is pretty much the price. BTW, your would owe tax to the state of CA at the end of the year even if you imported it from NV ! Perspective: you are looking at a large fridge from a top of the line manuf. and you live in SanFrancisco - none of this is really conducive to bargain hunting !...See More48 inch hood liner with a 60 inch range
Comments (5)In principle, you could extend it to achieve a collection aperture big enough for your range. This would require the basic unit to be rather high and the baffles somewhat harder to reach for cleaning. The angle of the extension pieces must be sufficiently close to vertical that effluent reflects upward when impinging on the extension. This makes the collecting aperture of the liner rather high, and the overall assembly rather large. Cabinetry may help obscure this. Whether 1200 cfm (at zero static pressure drop that you won't achieve) is adequate depends on many factors, but it might be risky because with a large aperture, the velocity of the air at the aperture might be relatively low and not helpful for containing the effluent. On the other hand, as the effluent rises and narrows in the hood, when it reaches the baffles the air velocity will be higher and perhaps adequate. I would be concerned that with significant cooking ongoing, rising effluent from multiple sources would not be contained, as may be seen in published Schlieren photographs of commercial units pulling insufficient cfm. Conceivably, a second helper fan inline with the ducting or mounted to the roof could be used to boost flow. Methods of control of both fans would need to be considered. Your trade-off here is avoiding the loss of the liner purchase price and committing to a lot of time to ensure a bastardized design will work, along with a lot of additional cost for parts and welding, versus just buying the right assembly and possibly reselling the unneeded liner. The liner capture area should extend beyond the cooking zone such that rising and expanding effluent intercepts the aperture and not the area outside the aperture where it will not be captured. A 66 to 72 inch liner will be needed. In any case, don't forget the need for make-up air. kas...See MoreIs a 60' hood too much?
Comments (5)I have a 66" Viking Chimney Hood with a 1,500 cfm external blower over 60" of Viking stove(s) --- a 24" Gas griddle top oven and a 36" dual fuel oven with 4 burners and a 12" grill. It's designed to be a high use environment. Presently under construction so I can't tell you if it depletes the oxygen in the house. But I have two windows inches away on either side of the stove so I plan on always cracking a window for fresh MUA. I'm aware of the need for MUA and negative air pressure in a tightly sealed home, however an indoor grill can create a lot of smoke and hence the need for a large exhaust. I spent considerable time visiting Wolf and Viking showrooms and cooking centers with actual installations and cooking demonstrations. IMO, the indoor grill is, and to some extent the griddle, the main reason to vent large....See MoreHelp needed on 60" range for kitchen reno: BS/Wolf/Viking/AR/Thermador
Comments (23)Actually MUA is not required by Code everywhere, only some areas. Regardless of Code requirements, the OP needs to do MUA with 1200 cfms because that much suckage carries with it the risk of sucking back CO into the house, i.e. backdraft. It's a serious risk because with that much cfms pulling air out of the house, other exhausts will be pulled in, like from the water-heater, furnace, chimney and dryer vent. That backdraft is bringing poisonous carbon monoxide into the home. You can get away with no MUA with an exhaust that is 400-600 cfms and if your house is drafty and not a newer super-insulated house. But not at 1200 cfms. At 1200 cfms, cracking a window will not be enough. You will need to install an MUA system. Either add that to the expense of your renovation, or choose a different cooking setup. People not willing to install MUA is a main reason why people forego the 60" ranges and their exhaust requirements, and opt instead for a 36" rangetop and separate ovens....See Moregwlake
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