1. Yes

2. White/White is standard. There are some manufacturers that make the interior grid (even when grids between glass, GBG, that have a laminated or color interior.

3. You see quite a few windows that have white grids and other than white interior frames.

4. Rarely. They are problematic and people tend to hate them.

5. Plenty of stories on the big box horror side of things. I would look for a good window specialist.

Thanks, I was once a big time DiY'er, but age is making it more difficult to be a aternoon craftsman... I have replaced two of the lower shases on subject living room windows.

I have hired help on outside work that is too big, or too complicated for my knowledge, and have hired local repair people, all have done a satisfactory to excellent job.

Like the old days of "consulting" the Sears Catalog (or Montgomerwards) to see what somethign costs I consider the big box to be a good start and have to admit they have made some sales.

When it comes to architectural design, I don't trust myself at all. Maybe I need to get out more, I just couldn't recall ever seeing a residential window with white grid inside and out and with natural finished wood inside. Heck, I even went to great pains on my wooden "snap in" grids to assure the white paint on the outside facing side didn't bleed into the wood stained side. It would have been a lot easier to just paint white both sides... may do that on windows I keep.

My dual goal is to also get UV protection on the windows facing South. I think this is an extra cost adder, but maybe not significant cost difference.

I am considering replacing just the 6 large (tall) double hung windows in my living room. If I get the same light pattern they should match okay with the upstairs windows I currently have. Need too to find out the incremental cost, i.e., when they are here to install 6 windows are additional windows offered at a lower cost each... clearly they have to make another trip only if the work goes an additional day. Here I am thinking of replacing one master bedroom widow facing North as it doesn't close well, never really did best I can remember..

Thanks for the help I feel more like moving forward on a decision.

Standard Low-e will block about +85% of the UV spectrum as a default. 3 coat Low-e's will block even more.

Thanks again, how much block is needed to stop or slow down a "lot" the fading and drying/cracking of rugs and furniture? I know polycarbonate clear eye glasses are close to 100% of (again believe) both types (is it A and B?) guess there are even more than two types (frequencies) but the A and B type are the ones getting all the interest. One causes sun burns the other is more mysterious but similarly dangerous I believe.

UV is only part of the fading equation. Visible light fades as well so the only way you will stop it is with a blackout shade.

Standard Low-e does a great job and you can opt for triple pane for more protection or laminated glass.

Thanks, great information.... clears up a misunderstanding on my part. I have blinds now and us them mainly in the winter on south facing windows. Summer the shade trees take out a large portion of the direct light and I assume that reflected/ambient light is much softer on the fade/crack... issues. Hope it isn't another Jerry_NJ bad data : (

Thanks, yes I am an old guy, lots of experience, little knowledge : O ( I was only aware of he newer glass having UV coatings and thought "we have a winner"... get the heat and little damage. I use venison blinds and don't completely close, rather (white blinds) I tip the slats sot he sun is reflected up toward the ceiling.

I try to conserve energy and $$$ and have operated a geothermal heat pump for over 20 years, that's a big help in keeping heating/cooling costs down... or at least lower than heating oil, we do not have access to natural gas, out in the country far from the road.