The Philips is made in China too. The one I've tried is the AmbientLED version that they sell at Home Depot for $24.97. It is only available there with 3K color temp and is downrated slightly at 435 lumens. (Fine by me as that is the color temp that the halogens are.) The EnduraLED version that you linked to is available from various other outlets in several color temps and output levels. You might be interested in the link below, where someone tears one apart so you can see the fan. I also posted a short review with links to a couple of photos of the light distribution. In any event, my advice is to try one and see if you like it. Then go from there. Here is a link that might be useful: Candlepower thread on Philips 10 watt MR-16

There is an explanation for what you are seeing (strobing LED lamps on a dimmer) but its a little complicated : All, or nearly all dimmers use an electronic switching device called a triac to control the drive to the lamps. Triacs have what is called a 'drop-out current' which is the minimum current that they will conduct without switching themselves and the lamps off. LED lamps are typically low-power devices - yours are only 4W each. So what I am picking is happening is that when the lamps are dimmed down, the current that they are drawing is less than the drop-out current of the dimmer's triac, and the triac is dropping out and then re-engaging causing the strobing effect. If you had the specifications for your dimmer, you will probably find in amongst it a minimum power rating which will relate to the drop-out current.

Yes, then it's the low voltage transformer. I don't know what's what. With LEDs some people call transformers drivers and vice versa. I know MR16 GU5.3 bulbs need a low voltage fixture. Whatever the terms, they were saying low voltage halogen fixtures can fail prematurely because they are not made to handle the much lower wattage of the LED bulbs. I asked Chris if I would know right away if it the fixture would have a problem running an LED bulb and he said yes. But when I called USALights they said it could work fine in the beginning. Then I chatted with TotalTrackLighting.com that had what looked like the same fixture, only it was listed as an LED fixture. I asked if it had a special transformer to handle the lower wattage and he said it was the same as the halogen model only they offer compatible LED bulbs. But those bulbs are not high CRI. Here's the two fixtures: http://www.usalight.com/Theatrical-Track-Light-Low-Voltage-p/us-904w.htm http://www.totaltracklighting.com/led-white-theatrical-track-light-12v-mr16-cool-or-warm-white-kit.html They are inexpensive either way but USA Light even warns that their $65 track heads say they are for halogen only. I got inexpensive track light fixtures 20 years ago and I've still got half of the originals (but they are fading fast) so I'd like to avoid speding a ton on fixtures if I can. These have several vents that I figured would help in cooling. I have been wanting to replace them with LED for several years. I've looked at native LED fixtures but even models costing several hundred dollars do not have high CRI values. I thought I finally had something with this fixture and the Creative Green MR16 bulbs but I don't want to buy a bunch of bulbs,especially expensive Soraa bulbs, and find out the fixture fails right away. They said line voltage isn't a problem but there are very few reasonable options for high CRI bulbs in PAR 20 or MR16-G10 and they all put out far less lumens than my current 50 W halogen (at 800 lumens).

If your previous lights were fluorescent lighting, it is very likely that you have line not low voltage wiring (i.e. 120V AC). If so, you'd need to figure out the size of the power supply based on the total power draw of the lights. run line voltage wiring to a power supply which has to be placed in an accessible location (eg. - inside/ on top of a cabinet) put in a separate run(s) of low voltage wiring from the power supply to the location where the lights will be placed. The wires have to be sized appropriately to handle anticipated the current draw. Get the appropriate dimmer - ELV when an electronic power supply is used or MLV (which will be more common since most power supplies use ferrite cores and are Magnetic Low Voltage). There are low profile ( ~ 3/4" to under 1") line voltage LED UCL available from different sources. All led lighting have very low heat output relative to CFL, incandescent.