Thanks again bludane, I will call the local extension first thing in the morning and see if they test or send out for testing. I did some more looking on the internet and I think I may have seen one mite on a leaf of the coneflower. I saw a shape very similar to the mite on one of the leaves found on this site. When I saw it under the microscope I looked at it for a long time and dismissed it. http://www.mobot.org/GARDENINGHELP/PLANTFINDER/IPM.asp?code=277&group=48&level=s or more specifically http://www.mobot.org/gardeninghelp/images/Pests/Pest1245.jpg I had mine crushed between two pieces of glass, but it was the same shape and color! You know... different sites are suggesting different methods of treatment. Some sites state that once damage is noticed it too late and that is very hard to treat. They suggest to dig out the plant, but they also suggest to dig out plants within one foot of the infected plant as they say those too might be infected. Then there are sites that say to just remove the affected part and do nothing. Humm.... They do say that the Eriophyid mites are the only mites to transmit viruses.

So, just to understand the table of events; you bring them in out of the autumn cold before frost hits them. You keep them in the garage for a couple weeks... WHY? You water them do you in the garage? What temperature is the garage, you saved them from frost outside, but might they have been touched by frost in the garage? Then you bring them into the house and give them sunlight---what kind of exposure? You water them as they need it, and you fertilize to promote growth and bloom continueing. You keep them there all winter long and keep watering them about once a week. Do they dry down between the times you water? Or do you just use the schedule of a weeks apart when they are watered? Now they are srhiveling up....the buds drop. The "shriveling" suggests the plant is dry....but then if they don't get proper sunlight, they'll shrivel too. The buds drop because: either too little sun, too much sun...we can dispose of that, improper watering...what do you think of that, or the room they're in is too cool or where they are put is in direct line with a source of air that dries out the soil faster than you want it to. Your method is one of the ways geraniums are kept going after removing them from the cold air of autumn. The other methods are to promote total dormancy by putting them into a cool room, with no light, no water and being left alone until we wish them to grow again--which is just about this time..February...when they are brought out of dormancy, cut back, given fresh potting soil, watered well to drainage, placed into a sunny window and wait until new foliage results---then fresh flowering results later...maybe until after they go outside. The other way is to take cuttings and bring them along. I'd say the sunlight has caught up to them. Through winter they receive very little sun and are kept going as well as we can keep them. But, sunlight in winter is not dependable...and we expect something like this to happen. Now's the time to do as tho we had placed them into the cool room. Cut them back, about 4", clear them of all the soil from their roots, cut them as you think required, remove all dead branches and stems, all flowers that are dried up. Into a clean pot, with shards between the soil and the pot's drainage holes, fresh potting soil, watered to drainage, given good sunlight from a western, southern or eastern exposure....and no watering until new foliage re-appears. Then water as necessary but keep the soil on the damp side--but not wet, each time you water, water to drainage, dump the excess. It might take as long as a week or two to show results...new budding leaves. It might not show flower buds until it goes outside in May...but not to worry, the plant will come back, better than ever. As the foliage appears, you can begin fertilizing about 1/4 rate every 2nd or 3rd watering. Increase fertilizer only when the foliage suggests it needs it. Every day or two, turn the plant 1/4 turn so that every day the entire plant gets its fair share of sunlight. Outside into a container with potting soil and as much sun as you can give it. A northern exposure is not what it wants...southern or western is what is called for. I use the cool room method myself...I have a coldcellar and along with my preserves, are kept there, asleep, dry as all get out, not a drop do they get. I have 7 plants...5 of them celebrating their 8th birthday. I have, in the past, brought them out as early as mid February, ....but recently we have been in the Caribbean at this time so we get to it about the ides of March. At this time the sun is fast giving back what plants need and every day the sun gets better and better. You can decide whether you want to cut them back now, or place them where they can be left dormant, and bring them out next month.....but the plant deserves as much sun as you can give them. About watering on a schedule...not dependable. Through winter, the plant isn't using the water like it used to...and too much water then sits under it, and if left there, and watered more and more every week, soon begins to rot the roots. You can tell if this is happening when you unpot them. In any case, you are going to clean all the soil off the roots, and remove any damaged roots...they might even smell. The clean pot and fresh potting soil will solve that.

Unless the outbreak is very severe, I would not bother to treat for cercospora in a home garden. This tends to be primarily a nursery issue and most plants in the landscape will outgrow it. Just practice good sanitation and avoid overhead watering. Immunox is registered for this purpose (control of cercospora leaf spot) so I would not see the need to use a copper based fungicide as well. FWIW, I work in a nursery and bring home various unsalable or returned plants and nurse them back to health. Without exception all of those hydrangeas that have been afflicted with cercospora leaf spot show no sign of it the following season. The above plant does look extremely chlorotic (but otherwise relatively healthy) and a fertilizer may be advised. Often, less acidic soils do not allow proper absorption of iron, one of the primary causes of chlorosis, and acid lovers would benefit from chelated iron or a fertilizer for acid loving plants. These typically have iron supplements included. FWIW, sun only until 1:30pm should not be too much, although SC sun is much more intense than mine up here in the PNW. Your plant does not show obvious evidence of scorch and if it is not wilting excessively, it is probably sited OK.

I'm murdered many, many plumeria and sorry to be a buzz kill, but i think you have murdered your plumeria as well. The rule for plumeria cuttings is to plant it, water it once (or not at all....use damp soil) and don't water it again until is has viable leaves growing. The softness of the cutting is an indicator of a soggy/rotting plant. The weak/dying flowers are obviously a sign that something is not right. I would cut the flower off immediately an inch or two from the bottom and keep your fingers crossed but the damage may be done. Good luck, Mike Ventura, CA