I have an 80 foot long vine growing up and across my 3rd story deck. The deck needs replacing and the Wisteria cannot be supported while the deck is replaced underneath it. It has a 6 inch diameter at the base and a 5 inch diameter 40 feet from the base where it takes a 90 degree turn upwards to climb the 25 feet to the railing of the deck. There it branches in two directions along the railing for another 15 to 20 feet. Is there enough flexibility in the lower part of the vine to where I can lay the whole thing on the ground without breaking it?

I agree that oaks generally don't require much in the way of structural corrective pruning. But having said that, it at least looks-from the pics-like there is a tendency for codominant stems there, c2g. However, no need to do complete branch removal. Instead, select the one you wish to be the main leader and shorten up the other one(s) by cutting them back to some outward-facing branchlet. This is called subordination pruning and is the basis for helping open-grown trees to behave more like thier forest brethren for a time, with primarily one main lead stem. None of this precludes your "raising up" which is simply removing lower branches for clearance, etc. Do this gradually though, a branch or two this year, a branch or two next year. And observe proper pruning methodology-remove most of the weight of the branches to be removed first, then make the final cut right at the outermost point of the swollen area known as the branch collar. +oM

Roma, I sorry to hear about you problems sealing with wax. Personally, I have never used wax or other types of sealants except DAP. I like the waterproof glue to protect mine. No one has every said that you have to do this, it is a preventive way to prevent moisture form Getting into the cut. Yes, it will heal naturally and I have let mine heal naturally as well. But I have found less problems when I add protection to the cuts. Also less die back of the stems...I also wait 20-30 to let it dry , then seal to the ends of the whole cut to prevent any moisture to settle in. I make sure it isnt outside in the rain when I cut or even after until the wound has been sealed and settled in for a day. Remember I cover the whole cut and seal up and slightly over the side to make sure moisture will not get in.... Sounds like there was fungus already in between the cut branches and the wax. Could the wax have separated at all and allowed moisture to settle in? You have some beautiful seedlings and trees and I remember that you have lots of new babies... Strong work!!! The question to seal or not is up to you. If you feel like you have better results with it healing naturally, I'm all for it. I have just found that I like the sealant that helps best for me. I also prune my Bonsai trees and they are woody stems. Many masters use this as well... So, it does have its benefits. You just want to prevent before anything can get into the wound before you have to take action after the fact.. I'm sorry for the problems. I have heard of people using wax to seal the bottoms of Plumeria... Over in the east...That's all I have heard about wax. I hope you can cut away the rot on Your larger tree. It is hard to see this happening. I always make sure to wipe my cutters with alcohol between each cut to prevent problems. Please keep us posted... Laura Pagan... Nancy has a beautiful tree and it is the most beautiful I have ever seen... You are so much fun to have around this thread... I hope you and your trees are doing well.... I am enjoying my coffee too!!!! Have a great day, Pagan, Roma and everyone !!!!! Laura

I hope someone can help me with my young wisteria. I want it to remain under control, and all this spring and now summer, I've been overwhelmed with new green shoots all over it. There is a nice double pink rose of sharon close by, and if I'm not watching, it wraps tendrils around it and runs like crazy. This is about 3 years old now. It will have white blooms on it, but none so far until it gets 5 years old. I'd like to move it, but don't want to start over waiting for blooms. Am I doing something wrong? Do you have to constantly prune the new growth back? Does it bloom on old growth from the previous year, or only on new growth? I know my mother kept one nicely under control as a bush in her back yard, and I never realized it would be such a pain. I'm now thinking about abandoning the wisteria in favor of passion vines and kiwi vines. If no one notices this post to an old thread, I will repost under a new topic.