two things... we both live in extreme climates. 1)we don't put ducts in exterior walls because of heat gain, you for cold gain. 2)we install ductwork on interior walls and blow the air to the exterior walls. old school (25+ years ago) locating supplies in ceilings next to windows was standard. the grills would blow the air to the window. nowdays we have more knowledge..if we take advanatge of educating ourselves..and understand that blowing warm air on a cold window leads to condensation. with better supply grills we can put the air exactly where we want it to go. gotta love 4 way supply grills! putting ductwork inside conditioned space in false boxing over cabinets..or building boxing (fur downs) might work in your application. it mostly depends upon the layout. if the closet you plan to use is centrally located, the the bottom of the closet is return, the middle is equipment, and the top supply plenum & ducts. with this configuration you need to determine if there is a pathway to serve all rooms. having that simple drawing of the layout would be helpful. if you can't post it, email it to me & I'll post it for you. would a mitisibushi mini split heat pump meet your requirements? "an after thought if I can find the highest blower I can get maximum cfm could I get away with all ceiling registers?" how? build fur downs at ceilings for ducts? not quite clear on this after thought! how's the temps there today??..we are in mid 60's.. a little cool spell after high 70's last week. best of luck.

The Utra tech Copeland scroll compressor unloads at 67% capacity. The scroll compressor is 95% efficient on high speed and 94% on low. This is why the scroll at this time is the number 1 compressor for residential application. when it works it works efficiently. However there is other factors for your over all application. coil size of evaporator, fan speed, coil temperature to regulate your TXV metering valve. ect.. Copeland states their 2 speed ultra compressors take 53% more humidity out of the air then their single speed compressors, I will have to find out what this means, is it combined with variable speed or just a constant cfm. Data on the 286B 2 ton 286B with FE4C-3 23,000 btu high 19,400 btu low 3 ton 286B with FE4C-5 36,000 btu high 29,400 btu low 3 ton 286B with FE4C-3 34,600 btu high 28,600 btu low what you want in a two speed system is for your system to run at low speed most of the time. It will take less energy and take out humidity. your 286B is similar to the 226A but with data control so since I'm in Fl and we don't have the 286B yet I will say that it should run around 4.8 to 5.5 amps in low spead around 8.5 to 10.5 amps in high. You want the high speed for the time of day that it is the most hot and days that it is very hot. two speed with variable speed air handlers have change the way we think or I think. And it has nothing to do with what the data specs say or what a computer tells me the thing should be. As we discussed most load calculations unfortunately are used for sales pitching. It's not the exact, it just gives a frame of reference so a professional can make his decision. No two programs will give you the same btu nor will two people give you the same end btu it's just a frame of reference. Data in is data received and we all perceive data differently. I've done loads since they came out on DOS back in 1989. It is only a guide for me not an end all. Let me say, that we can get even more precise, with a home energy audit and HERS rating with a blower door and duct blaster test. We can also grade your insulation, yes it's just not about R-value there is 3 levels of how the insulation was installed. It gets so ridiculous that it has become ridiculous. You may have to look at your home, see how your old system performed. Did it run all the time last summer? We had a hot and rainy summer last season. All these factors I use when I give a bid to a customer. I really focus in on the customer gut feeling too and what temperature is your comfort level. Many Manual J are based on 78F temp in side your home. Well what if you like it at 72F and what if it get's 98F and stays there for 2 weeks? Then this should be changed in the manual J for a proper rating. You know your energy bills, you know that the system before either ran too much or not enough, or it was pretty much out of site out of mind. The good thing is that over sizing is not like it was 10 yrs ago. There is variable speed air handlers and 2 speed compressors that can regulate humidity and your comfort level and this is what we are trying to accomplish, a comfort level in the most efficient way that doesn't cost a million banana's If there is a concern, you may want to look at the FE4C-3. it looses a .5 SEER but has less btu's and it is a slant coil that is much easier to clean. It is very hard for me to give advice since I have not physically looked at your application, but I do know you have a very good contractor that should take care of your needs.

I'd go with one of the butyl-backed foil tapes (Hardcast or the like). Less of a mess than any of the two-step methods listed, although more expensive. My experience is that it did pretty well where I applied to existing jacketing after brushing off the dust. I wouldn't use just mastic- have a hard time believing it'd have any strength. You'll probably have to find an HVAC supply house to buy it. In a pinch, the "waterproof" foil tape that HD sells tiny rolls of has a thinner butyl backing but no UL listing.

Image by: Ruth2 Ruth2's wire art Wire Art Danglers & Suncatchers ~ Where to find wire Where to obtain the wire - Most of the members are purchasing their wire in rolls at a do-it-yourself "super store". You can also try the electrical and plumbing supply stores, or your local corner hardware store. The wire may come on a roll - a "normal" size roll being 25 feet which is enough for several wire art projects. The wire sold in most DIY super stores may be encased in plastic that needs to be stripped off. You are more likely to find 'plain' (not covered in plastic) wire at the specialty electric supply stores. Notes from our members: Yukon Gold suggests: Use Romex 12/2 electrical wire which has 3 copper wires inside. Use a box cutter to strip plastic covering off. sonicsink says: I found mine at the hardware store, it was a bunch of wire twisted to make like a cable rope. It was i think about 60 cents a foot so I bought 3 feet and after uncoiling it all I ended up with 8 strands of 3 foot long wire. I'm thinking the hardware store is way cheaper than craft stores! Dig_Deeper adds: The copper wire is electrical wire that you can purchase in rolls. You can buy 25-foot rolls that will come as 2-wire, 3 wire, or 4 wire combinations. The wire is encased in plastic that will have to be stripped off. The bundle of wires (2, 3, 4) is also encased in plastic that can be easily stripped off. The ground wire in the 3-wire bundle is wrapped in paper that can easily be stripped off, the black and white coated wire, take a little more effort. With a 25-foot roll, you should have more effort. With a 25-foot roll, you should have enough wire for many, many projects. Morganwolf tells us: One of the electrical guys at our DIY super store told me that this wire is available w/out the plastic coating at electrical supply stores. I'm tempted to try it, because I'm not having much luck stripping the plastic From Ruth2: 14 gauge copper wire (had to strip it) found at thrift store. We have been searching for wire but I did not want to use too light a gauge. We found some at an electrical store - you can ask for it by "magnet wire", used for motor windings (?). It's not bare wire, has a clear or colored coating, but I'm going to try it. Also, you don't have to use just one piece of wire, you can form several and put them together. ~~~ TIP: To polish copper: stir a teaspoon or two of regular table salt into a cup of white vinegar. (Use a clean plastic container with a lid that seals tight and you can reuse the solution for some time.) Dip in your copper piece, swish, remove and rinse well. Finish off by buffing with a clean soft cloth. Allow more corroded wire to soak for a bit. Badly discolored wire can be polished with fine (#000 or #0000) steel wool. TIP: Remove ink markings from copper pipe with rubbing alcohol on #000 steel wool.