Yes, it's acidic! Argh. My lawn (alone) is an acre--I am NOT looking forward to this.... Over the last four years, my husband was the main yard person. I just handled overseeding. I got tired of him killing the grass, so now I'm doing all the yard work, and he gets to dig stumps. :-P He *was fertilizing haphazardly about once a year. He'd mow, AT MOST, once every other week, but if it rained on the weekend, he'd skip that week. He managed to kill off big swaths of the backyard, and that's when I had enough. Now that I'm in control, I'm doing MAJOR rehabbing. He spread some Pre-emergent + Fertilizer in mid-March for me--and missed a huge section of lawn, which is now covered in crabgrass. So that was the last time he touched the yard. But most of the front yard wasn't part of what he missed, and we've never had much crabgrass there, anyway. (Actually, we have other annual weeds that had already reached seedheads by mid-March and the grass got its first mowing, so we really should have started March 1.) I fertilized again 4 weeks later with a weed & feed-type product. Normally, I'd wait at least 6 weeks, but there were stripes of missed areas everywhere, and the grass was still not as vigorous as I'd like to see given how long it had been growing. We had one brief dry spell, and I supplemented water in the front where there are so many tree roots because the grass was getting quite wilty. I really need to hit everything again with a weed-b-gone product (without fertilizer) this weekend. Then I'm going to wait until June 1st, which is the last time you can fertilize around here before summer, and use a final weed & feed-type application. Already, grass I didn't know I had is really spreading out. I think that poor mowing, fertilization, and watering practices were really making the grass struggle under there. So DH will be shifted to trimming dead branches and removing trees when the digging is done, and I'll stay on yard duty and get it done right. I think I have SOME perennial rye, but it's near the house, which gets more sun and stays pretty thick. I get good germination every year, and the grass makes it to winter fine but mostly disappears in spring. (Which was when DH took over...hmmmm....) When I overseeded in the past, I've used a deep shade mix from a big box store. I then applied Starter fertilizer. I keep everything very moist until first mow, then watered less frequently but still regularly. This year, I'm planning on using Outside Pride's Combat Extreme transition zone mix at 80% with poa supina at 20% in the shady areas and 50% Combat Extreme and 50% Supreme KBG. I want to stop overseeding EVERY YEAR. So I'm looking to add enough running grasses to self-repair small holes. I mulch everything right now.... My entire schedule looks like this: Mid-March: Pre-emergent + fert Early April: Realized husband missed neglected strip 10-30' wide and 250' long. Crabgrass already starting, so overseeded with cheapo seed and fertilized. Mid-April: Weed + Feed on main area End of April: Weed + Feed on neglected strip, Weed-b-gone main area Early May: Apply grub killer, because the grubs are terrible this year. After it's used up, I'm switching to Milky Spore. Mid-May: Lime the most acidic and unhappy sections. Weed-be-gone anything left standing. Early June: Last fertilizer--something like Scott's Summerguard. Mid-June: Try the baby soap trick. Early July: Check out for any need for weed-be-gone Early August: Check out any need for weed-be-gone Mid-August: Baby shampoo. Early Sept (earlier than before): Overseed. Apply starter fertilizer. Mid-October: Fertilize with something like Scott's Winterguard. I have to stop mulching around mid-October because of the leaves. From then through Thanksgiving, I mow and bag, then I compost the leaves to use in the gardens. Next year, I plan on only 4 fertilizations. I'll apply a stronger stand-along preemergent in late Feb, then fert in mid-March and mid-May, then early Sept and mid-to-late Oct. There is no way that I will ever apply organic compost instead of fertilizer to this size of yard. It's just not happening. EVER.

you can 'force' them for easter ... google it all.. but generally.. figure out a cold treatment.. fridge or garage.. for the requisite period.. pot them.. either before or after .. depending on if you have room in the fridge for a pot ... and then bring them into the warm ... very fun ... english gardens might be able to tell you off hand.. thats were i used to get my forcing bulbs.. and while you are at it.. you might want to cut a few forsythia in a few weeks.. to force bloom indoors .. ken

It's a dieffenbachia. They like bright light or filtered sun and water when the pot is light when you try to pick it up. If you cut off the leggy tops it should sprout new shoots from the stem. That's the simple carevi give mine. I'm sure someone will come along to give you more comprehensive advice!

I have some experience with this plant. You can try saving your dracaena by taking it out of the wet soil it's currently in, and letting the roots air out and dry out for about a day; then, repot it in new, well draining soil and give it very little water. I, too, think that every other day is much too often to water a dracaena. Let the soil dry out slightly between waterings - I'm thinking it'd only need watering maybe every 10-14 days, or even less frequent, depending on the soil. Best of luck!