I have Hettich softclose for all my drawers. I had assumed they were going to be Blum and I was concerned when I found out they were Hettich, because I had never heard of them. But the cabinet maker assured me that they were arguably better than Blum. He showed me an older and a newer Blum slide and showed me where Blum has changed their slides over the last few years to reduce cost. Mainly shortening the full extension mount. The Hettich felt heftier in hand. I followed up with my own research and the feedback was very positive. My Rev-a-Shelf trash pullout uses Hettich too. The Hettich slides are very smooth. I don't have Hettich for door hinges though so I can comment on those. My cabinet maker used Salice. He said he liked them better than Blum. I didn't ask why he didn't use Hettich for the doors.

We had the same issue; our contractor ordered and installed the clips. I also used those tiny felt or clear vinyl adhesive bumpers in a few unobtrusive spots for some extra padding. I put two on the side of the fridge since our pantry doors could hit the fridge when both are opened at the same time (and with kids, this does happen) as well as on a counter edge where the broom closet door touches it. This post was edited by bookmom41 on Sun, Aug 31, 14 at 9:34

So sorry! I meant 3mm. Thank you, I corrected that - I also added that the back brackets require the same slightly thicker stock (than the usual Ikea drawer bottom - so if you marry the back Blum brackets to the Ikea bottoms, you use the Ikea bottom if possible, but have to create a back.) I am not sure if I can post a link, but Google Tandembox & measurements. If you have the Ikea Rationell drawers, and you need to cut them narrower for some reason, the provided drawer bottom will work fine if you cut it, then cut a channel like the opposite side. I found a number of cover panels on clearance in As-Is which were the thickness I needed for the Rationell drawers which I found in As-Is which were not wide enough, so if you need to make wider drawers, measure the thickness of the provided bottoms, and either find what you need at your local big box, or see what you can find at Ikea. From what I discovered on-line, get fiberboard versus particleboard. It is better in most ways. Doesn't chip out when you cut it, is stronger, and lots more info online. I'd recommend you start with one pair of back brackets, and see how they work for you. Also, the one big struggle I had was figuring out where to drill the holes - while I highly recommend the BLUM front marking template for drawer fronts, and wish I purchased it, I designed a really helpful almost free solution; you know wall anchors? Those little plastic inch long or so anchors which are put into a wall prior to a screw? I put a couple in (from the front) of the Ikea drawer front brackets (which hold the drawer to the drawer front), cut most of the rest off the back of the bracket, then installed short pointy screws from the back, then popped them onto the sides once they were ready to fit the drawer fronts. I fit drawers from the bottom up, leaving appropriate space between each drawer (about 1/16th). It really helps to create a sturdy low and level platform for the installation of the lowest drawer, so you can place the drawer at the correct height without too much duress (learned the hard way.) Then, place your drawer against these screws, and give it a hard whack - they will leave marks on the drawer of where to drill. Use a penny or some other spacer between that installed drawer and the next drawer, and do the same. Then remove the jig bracket, and replace with a non-jig bracket. For the last drawer you install, just remove the screws and plastic anchors after you have marked your spot. Here is a photo (poor, sorry, my phone camera is not great) of how I constructed the drawer jig.

I'm guessing that place in Santa Ana was Austin Hardwood? If so, I seriously doubt they were mis-packaged intentionally by Austin, but still hard to understand how K-Vs came out of Blum packaging? I buy all my glides and hinges there, one of the best selections in Orange County, and a reputable old time family business. As others have mentioned, to accommodate Blum bottom mount glides, drawer boxes must be ordered and made specifically with the proper recessed bottom. Your drawers have the 1/2" side clearance to accept side glides, and very unlikely have the bottom recess to enable the use of bottom mount glides no matter what mfg. FWIW, I've liked and used Accuride side mount glides for dozens of years with great results. Especially for extra heavy large drawers, pantry pull outs and file cabinets...