Go low voltage. A good quality one will not give you any trouble. The transformer is already wired into the housing, so your electrician's job is the same. I can see where he might have had issues in the past with lower quality ones. But every lighting design I do is either 100% low voltage or in combination with the Cree bulb. I'm getting an LED replacement bulb for 3" & 4" low voltage cans soon. It's bigger than an MR16, but is made to fit in the regular low voltage housing. It's 10 watts and delivers the same amount of light as a 50 watt MR16. The coolest part is that it has a selectable beam spread. You just turn the optic and change it from a spot to a flood. I have to test the actual brightness and dimmability. The important thing though is that newer LED bulbs will fit in existing low voltage cans. So go with the smaller, brighter low voltage cans now. When the LED technology gets to the point that you're happy with it, you can easily swap out the bulb.

I will choose LED recessed lights. LED lighting is the most energy-saving way of illumination in the present day, saving up to 90% energy compared to other lighting. This means that about 80-90% of the electrical energy is converted to light, while around 20% energy is lost. On the contrary, traditional lighting such as incandescent light bulbs only operate at 20% energy efficiency. LED light bulbs have extremely long lifespan. They are expected to operate up to 100,000 hours. This means that an LED light bulb could operate continuously for about 11years, which is 3 to 10 times longer than compact fluorescent lamps and 60 times as long as incandescent bulbs. LED lights do not contain any toxic substances. Most fluorescent lights contain a multitude of toxic chemicals like mercury that are dangerous for our health and the environment. LED light bulbs emit less CO2 than traditional incandescent bulbs, and they are 100% recycle, offering you a greener life. LEDs produce little heat or UV rays, while traditional incandescent lights emit a large amount of waste heat. And compact fluorescent lamps are reported to generate a multitude of UV rays, which is a potential risk of getting skin cancer. Because of this benefit of LEDs, LED lights are suitable for objects or materials that are sensitive to heat or UV rays. LED lights operate well under colder and lower outdoor temperature than fluorescent lamps. Therefore, LED lights are extremely suitable for outdoor winter settings. LED lights brighten up instantly as soon as you turn the power on without any seconds. In contrast, fluorescent lights may take several seconds to brighten up. Here is a link that might be useful: My LED recessed lights source here

The difference between the 2700k and the 3000k is minimal in the grand scheme of things.....both are much warmer than the 4-5000K that is white. The up lighting above the cabinets you will notice between the 2700 and 3000 as they typically are placed at the front edge of the cabinets if doing LED strip lighting and shine directly up just giving the ambience of uplighting and if you are going to put any Decor on the top of your cabinets (some like it, others hate it), the lighting at the front will help accent it. If you are concerned about it, go with the 2700K that is similar to your LED bulbs in your cans.

That never occurred to me either. That problem didn't arise the two times I installed chandelier LED retrofits, but they were both fairly low-end store-brand fans. BTW, the LED bulb actually isn't the same wattage. The big print on the package is "equivalent incandescent wattage." LED retrofits typically use about 1/10 to 1/5 of the original bulb's power. And that may be the problem. Your fan controller may get confused by the retrofit's very low current consumption. This might be comparable to what happened to me when I installed retrofit LEDs in my car's parking lights and tail lights. (I got annoyed with repeatedly replacing the incandescent bulbs. Why is it that factory bulbs last 6-8 years and replacements last 1-2 years at most?). I looked out in the driveway that night and the taillights were glowing faintly. Spooky! Turns out that cars no longer have real switches for most (all?) lights. The switch you flip or turn just signals the body computer, which does the actual control of the lights with a semiconductor switch. Unlike a real switch, which has essentially infinite resistance when open, the semiconductor has measurable resistance. Without wanting to get too technical here, I'll just say that the LEDs' current draw was so low that a significant voltage remained across them when the "switch" was supposed to be off. In your case, I guess you could buy a new fan controller from Minka Aire, but it might not be worth the expense. If the fan were mine, I'd probably do some research on whether the controller was actually needed. If possible, I might just scrap it (or sell it used on Ebay) and connect both fan and light directly to old fashioned analog wall controls. But that's me. Sometimes I'm kind of a Luddite about such things.