Let it recover. I have hundreds of live oaks and a friend of mine tried to bonsai an older specimen and it promptly died. I hope you have better luck. They really have a large taproot making them hard to transplant. If you would like some seedlings this has been a bumper crop year and I am weeding hundreds of them out of my landscaping. They really don't take as long to grow as they say they do, and they are more trainable when small.

I find erythrostemmas very hardy and easy to maintain. I grow them in a chunky mix that dries out well and they tolerate a bit of drought. The cutting you receive will no doubt arrive in good shape as they travel quite well. This is deceptive, because the petioles become a bit fragile during travel even though the leaves remain green and robust. They are easy to accidentally knock off. Handle very carefully. After it's rooted, then they are no more fragile than the next Hoya.

May I make a suggestion? Hoya imbricata likes it very wet. yes, this species grows in very wet conditions and then as it matures, it develops into a clinging vine that will climb even on cement. Start the cutting(s) in a hanging basket (six inch pot size is fine) and fill it with LFS mixed with perlite, orchid bark-fine grade. Ball the stem end for where you plan to insert into the media around a ball of LFS and plant=wedge this ball into your loose but wet media. This plant will develop roots quickly and then start making searcher vines seeking places to cling to. At this time, you can tie a piece of fern totem, redwood totem, cedar fence section, etc next to it. The clinging vine will start to make feeder roots attach itself to its host. Do not sever the connection right away. Instead grab some LFS around the base of the stems that have reached from the pot and slowly do a reverse air layer in making the new area grow roots into this wet moss. As soon as your host support is covered and roots are visible, you can make the severing from the pot. But keep this vines wet. They easily flower and side branch. I also recommend placing a nylon stocking filled with MagAmp and osmocote/nutricote and hang it above the totem, wood or stake and water and wet this stocking when doing so.

multi tier worm bins are real bad for brand newie worm wranglers. The trouble is they seem like simplicity itself. open lid and throw kitchen scraps which are 70% water in top tray and sprinkle with water. Over time these kitchen scraps 'decompose' and the worms eat upwards on the food, fungi, organisisms all muching away at these foods. The water and moisture from the kitchen scraps follow gravity to the bottom of the bin into the sump. So this bottom area tends to mainly be moist and smelly since new worm wranglers tend to not empty the leachate (which is toxic and poisonous) off enough, so the worms tend to dislike this bottom area since it has yucky stagnant water pooling there; its basically a swamp since it also contains worm castings. Thus new worm wranglers often drain off this foul smelling soup and flush the system with more water, but by 'overwatering' now they are compacting the upper layers with water molecules. this is because water acyaully is very heavy and it clings to itself, so the overwatering tends to compress the food bedding layers and the water clings to itself and displaces oxygen. So now we get anerobic decomposition and instead of aerobic methane that quickly disapates off in a well balanced oxygenated worm bin we get a compressed mass of food that slows down its decomposition due to lack of oxygen. Now we get ammonia gas and this gas kills worms real dead, so the worms must run away (into the bottom sump) or do a worm run and leave the bin entirely to avoid being gassed to death. So, to dry, to wet? the newbie worm wrangler tends to lighten up on how much water they add, so gravity tends to pull down moisture into the bottom layers and water sump. So now the upper layers of newer food tend to dry out more and worms breathe through their WET MOIST skin so they tend to move to where the water is (into the sump) luckily. AS long as they have a ladder to reclimb back up to the bedding layers instead of drwoning in the sump. Remember they need moisture to breathe so they dehydatrate if they stay up top. If it rains then they worm run away to the refreshing outside rain and die from sunlight or lawn fertilizer or whatever. So this is why (especially) with a sudden unplanned for run of hot weather that evaporates or transpirates your top layers of moisuture away your worms flee to the bottom sump layer for the life giving water. Remember without water worms are dead, dry bedding to a worm is the same as you crawling over broken glass or sandpaper without protection; it would not be nice so do not 'neglect' your worms. These factors and others are why multi tier worm farms are not the greatest for newbie worm wranglers, but remember worms are very resilient and people learn if they lose or hurt their babies (worms), so over time humans get better at 'listening' to what worms "like". Generally worms like being left alone to do their thing and mainly new worm wranglers try to hard to 'help' the worms with to much food or water but we humans usually get better over time, but of course you have to take note of the weather since worms cannot learn to drink from a tap; how could they turn it on ? ;)