I have also found that many of these guys have continually produced new and larger petioles. They sometimes make small ones too, but overall they get bigger and bigger, and I haven't seen them exceed 3 at any given so far. Right now, I only have a couple titanums left, not even the largest ones. I have sold off 30 something plants to a couple dozen people, perhaps 40% in southern Florida, and mostly through the south through the summer. The largest reported size I've heard of so far is around 2 1/2ft petioles and 1 inch stems which is pretty decent for 10 month old plants, but most likely only possible because they were strong plants to start with that were sent down south where they get more heat and humidity. The ones I still have are no more than a foot tall and this is to conserve window space as I can't have tons of plants to over-winter. This is the latest one that I sent out around 2ft tall with 3 petioles, and a 4th one forming, likely getting to a decent size based on how it looks now. The corm appears surprisingly small, less than the size of a tennis ball, but larger than a golf ball, but likely because the 3 new petioles were just produced a few weeks ago.

Since these are container plants the odds heavily favor nutritional deficiency but there is no way to know that with much more info from you. Like what product, how much and how often are you feeding them? Indeterminate varieties in containers sized such as in your pics would require weekly feedings of some form of supplement. The Brandywine leaf in the last pic looks like Early Blight as it has the bulls-eye patterns. The leaf roll on the Stupice is called Physiological Tomato Leaf Roll (you can Google that term) and is caused by inconsistent soil moisture levels - wet/dry/wet/dry. Once the leaves roll like that it doesn't go away but you can prevent it from getting worse by changing your watering regimen to try to stabilize the soil moisture. The first 2 pics look like Bacterial Speck/Spot rather than Early Blight and both bacterial and fungus diseases ( like EB) have the same treatment - remove all affect foliage from the plant ASAP and dispose of it. Then begin a regularly scheduled fungicide spraying program with a fungicide (copper based for bacterial issues). It won't cure it, just slow it down. The Sun Gold looks like it is getting root bound in the pot and the yellowing leaves are most likely from the over-watering that results from growing a variety with a huge root ball in a small container. Sun Gold is notorious for being a huge plant with a huge ball and to do well it need a HUGE container of 20 gallons minimum. Hope this helps some. There are numerous other discussions running here now, especially on the Growing Tomatoes forum, from folks with the same problems as you so there is a lot to learn from reading through those discussions too. Dave

You use the phrase nutrient dense, but I'm not seeing any nitrogen beyond passing mention of fish emulsion. Bountiful bioactivators might enhance a stressed, low N soil but they can't replace basic nutrients. Find a balanced organic fertilizer you like and use it according to the needs of the crop. All the good things we do to build the soil often means we need less fertilizer, but doing without it altogether is not very success-oriented. We make wine and beer so we bioactivate our compost with dregs all the time, but it's still just compost. Great soil conditioner.

Hard to say without a picture whether the tiny white bugs are something to worry about. Massachusetts during a wet, cold spring is really the opposite of conditions that encourage mites, though. You say "the afflicted leaves are mostly on the plant that gets more sun, and mostly on its uppermost leaves." Is the newest growth affected at all, i.e. new growth that appeared since you put the plants out in the current location? If so, then it's highly unlikely to be sunscald. If not, then sunscald is the likeliest culprit. Is the damage progressing at all? If not, regardless of the cause, I wouldn't worry about it. It's slight and shouldn't affect the plant's vigor or production. If it's progressing, then I would suspect that maybe you do have a mite or thrip, etc. issue that needs addressing. Re: nutritional deficiency--leaves will look cruddier than that if the problem is nutritional. There will usually be chlorosis or some other color change as well. But if you're not fertilizing your plants regularly, you should do so to prevent nutritional problems down the line.