Blooms Incoming! + An Important Question at the Bottom
supertinyviolet
8 years ago
last modified: 8 years ago
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supertinyviolet
8 years agoRelated Discussions
Australia Import-- When?
Comments (58)Ryan-- In order to get a better...I dunno... advertisement out there, I would think a new post is in order to reach our target 100. If the casual observer has been dropping by here they likely gave up on this post a while ago!!! So they're duty free... I...uh...I'm so ashamed....should know this but what does this mean to our bulbs? They're not taxed by Australia?...See MoreBreeding Rabbits for Food and Extra Income
Comments (25)This topic fades away and is brought back time and again. I will add my thoughts here for anybody who happens by this thread in the future. The MOST important thing when getting into rabbits is to get the right type of cage, IMO. In the past, people used to recommend stacking cages with droppings pans underneath to catch the droppings. Let me tell you, this type of arrangement is a nightmare to deal with, especially once you get a doe with a litter that is hopping around with her. If you don't empty it daily, it will quickly start to overflow onto the rabbits beneath it. It is MUCH easier to just get a long row of cages with wire bottoms and let the droppings fall directly on the ground. You can corral it with cinder blocks or something and add some worms, and they'll turn it into worm castings for you, or you can shovel it once every month or two into a compost pile. The urine will soak into the ground and this method is about 10 times less smelly than the droppings pan method! I wish somebody had told me this back when I was beginning! For breeds, just research. I liked the rare breeds such as American Blues and Silver Foxes, but New Zealand Whites are fine, too. Just make sure you get your initial stock from somebody who is raising the rabbits with production goals in mind rather than "show" quality. There's nothing wrong with showing, but a show rabbit may average 4 or 5 kits per litter, while a rabbit that is raised from a mother who regularly throws 10 or 12 kits is more likely to be a good investment. Rabbits cannot take the heat. If you live in a place like Texas or Louisiana, you will probably lose rabbits during the summer unless you install a swamp cooler or misting system to keep them cool. Pigeons do much better in the heat--it doesn't seem to bother them at all. I would seriously consider the cost of a cooling system and the electricity to run it before I invested heavily in rabbits if I lived in a very hot location (I do--I live in Austin, TX, and my rabbits had a $500 swamp cooler blowing on them all summer long)....See MoreImportant! New Vaccine protocols
Comments (7)These protocols are not really that new, nor are they Dr. Dodd's- a task force consisting of many distinguished veterinarians produced the guidelines, and Dr. Dodd is NOT one of the authors. The canine protocols first changed in 2003 and were updated in 2006. The feline protocols were first established in 2006. Dr. Richard Ford, one of the authors of the protocols, is one of my teachers, so I am very well familiar with the subject. Here is an article written by Dr. Ford on the subject. Please read specifically the section titled "The AAHA Canine Vaccine Guidelines and the 3 year vaccine." Oh, and NC State CVM does NOT follow Dr. Dodd's protocols; vaccines are left to the discretion of the veterinarian following a risk assessment for each individual pet. For example, Rotties and Dobes are recommended to return at 20 weeks for a 4th parvo booster due to their extended duration of maternal antibodies, while other breeds are not. Finally the statement that "Once the initial series of puppy or kitten vaccinations and first annual vaccinations are completed, immunity from MLV vaccines persists for life" is NOT true unless your dog or cat only lives to be 7 years old. They duration of immunity is greater than 7 years, but how much greater is unknown. Sorry to burst your bubble, but I do believe in giving credit where credit is due, and Dr. Dodd is NOT an author of the vaccine protocols, nor would NC State use her protocols when we have our own author of the protocols on staff. Finally, it is VERY important to read the section on the "3-year vaccines" because that is NOT what the authors intended. They intend for each dog and cat to be assessed for risk and vaccinated accordingly. Any vet who uses the same vaccine schedule for every dog is being lazy and not doing his/her job correctly, IMVHO. Here is a link that might be useful: Dr. Ford on the vaccine protocols...See Morebad picture but nice blooms
Comments (25)Thank you for your tips, I have similar problems too - I've mastered it with my second violet (the soil does feel a little different, and the plant doesn't have as many suckers), but my first violet is so overgrown, I have trouble getting it to stay the right consistency. It'll be nice, and moist, but in no time dry again (because of all the suckers growing off of it). The plant is very happy though. I even have some good news about it that I'm going to post on another thread (I'd feel terrible to highjack Sans2014's thread, and post it here haha)....See Moresupertinyviolet
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8 years agoRosie1949
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8 years agoRosie1949
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