That's why I was thinking of using small tabletop BBQ grills. I have seen some at Wal-Mart for $20, you could leave the top on and open the vent and it would still give off plenty of heat throughout the night. To be safe you could sit them on some cement pavers. Where I live it gets windy when a cold front passes through, but the hard freezes come afterwards when the wind has died down and the frost settles. Here is a link that might be useful: bbq grill

The smudge characteristic is variable both due to genetics and enviornment. So what one might observe plant to plant or year to year and under different environmental conditions will influence how much of that black/purple is expressed. Orange color As far as the orange vs red, I think simply the higher contrast of purple against orange vs purple against red is going to appear to be more vivid simply due to the nature of color perception. The orange is likely from the tangerine gene. So it means that either this variety is the result of a cross or the result of a mutation at the t+ wildtype loci. At least one of the parents in the background of 'Purple Smudge' is documented to have a tangerine mongenic mutant documented. A revision due to the grafting alone is dubious. Variable expression The person who released 'Purple Smudge' notes several times in reports that the expression of the purple is enhanced by higher light. He also notes several other environmental factors that can ultimately effect the expression of the purpling. From Young, TGRC 13:33-34 Plants with the smudge character showed purple to black smudge in the peel of the sunny sides of few to many fruits per plant, especially when the plants were exposed to temperatures of 35 to 50F. [note- P20 does this as well] furthermore ... so light appears necessary for development of the purple or black color. Cool fall weather or soil deficient in nitrogen and phosphorus apparently increased the development of the purple or black color. The report also mentions that the trait does not fit simple Mendelian inheritance patterns. I won't go into that part. Suffice to say both the genetic expression and expression due to environment are responsible for how much purple there is (or isn't). The pedigree of 'Purple Smudge' is rather complex. I traced it this way. Purple Smudge/LA2377 (TGRC) = PI 290858 (USDA) which is G 2157-8 There used to be a listing titled 'Purple Smudge' but it has been changed to it original entry from the donor - 'G 2157-8'. The Ames USDA site used to hold tomatoes and there it was called Ames 619. Here is the current USDA record. http://www.ars-grin.gov/cgi-bin/npgs/acc/display.pl?1220049 I then traced the lineage from Young's research notes in several issues of The Reports of the Tomato Genetics Committee. Colored areas are attributed to the contributing breeders and so noted. Some of the initial crosses probably go back to the early 1940's. (Young's G1219[F3] x Stokesdale cross is noted as 1949). I might note also the PA Young observed and documented many so called "heirloom traits". For instance the one line received from Dr Porte of the USDA also segregated out "pink-gold" fruits with yellow peel, orange rind, and orange and pink flesh�.. Seeds from these fruits produced mostly red-fruited plants, but some plants had the typical pink gold fruits. Inheritance of fruit color is peculiar in crosses with Lycopersicon peruvianum (Lesley & Lesley, Jour. Hered. 38:245-251, 1947). He also described blacks/purples, other bicolors and superpuff (bell pepper shape). I did not care for Purple Smudge myself. I care for few tangerine fruits (most are bland to me). From what I have been observing in crosses with orange, I can only imagine that the orange trait only took something down in quality rather than up. It is an interesting novelty though.

Bacterial diseases can ramp up on greenhouse tomato seedlings long before symptoms become obvious. Bacterial speck (Pseudomonas syringae pv. tomato), bacterial spot (Xanthomonas campestris pv. vesicatoria) and bacterial canker (Clavibacter michiganensis subsp. michiganensis) are three diseases that can wreak havoc in the greenhouse. Symptoms of both bacterial speck and bacterial spot appear as dark blotches and/or spots on the leaves. Sometimes these blotches/spots are nearly black, but they can also be light brown. A yellow "halo" can surround these blotches/spots but may not always be present. Bacterial canker looks different than other bacterial diseases. Canker causes a light browning along the leaf mid-veins and extends down the petiole. It is easy to overlook canker infection because it can mimic other disorders, including stress from drying. Bacterial canker symptoms do not appear to be "disease-like" compared to bacterial speck and spot. Disease spread In general, bacteria are spread via splashing water between plants and require a wound or a natural opening to gain entrance. A wound can be as small as a microscopic abrasion. Bacteria can move into a leaf via natural openings along the leaf edge. This can result in a dark fringing along the leaves� outer edge. Bacterial speck, bacterial spot and bacterial canker can be introduced to a tomato seedling via the seed. Bacteria can occur on the seed coat, but the bacterial canker bacteria can sometimes be inside the seed. When the seed coat stays attached to the cotyledons following emergence, any bacteria on the seed coat can move to the seedling. They reproduce rapidly when conditions are warm and wet. Bacteria move between plants by splashing water. Overhead watering allows bacteria to move readily from diseased transplants to adjacent healthy transplants. When the greenhouse humidity is especially high, the bacteria can become encapsulated within tiny airborne water droplets and may move within the greenhouse via water aerosols. Bacteria can also be introduced to tomato seedlings via diseased plant residue left in the greenhouse. Old foliage may serve as a source of bacteria to infect a new group of seedlings. Start control early Bacterial control is best begun even before there is a sign of disease. Start with tomato seed that has been tested for bacterial pathogens and commercially treated. Growers can treat the seed themselves including using a hot water treatment. Although this treatment can be effective, the high temperature can hurt germination. Hot water treatment is not used widely but may be an option for those who are looking for relief from bacteria and are growing transplants for the organic industry and have limited options. Keep the environment and foliage as dry as possible to limit the spread and development of bacterial diseases. Both conventional and organic growers can apply copper fungicide sprays to help limit diseases. Some bacterial pathogens may not respond to copper if they have mutated and developed resistance. Growers cannot immediately determine whether their particular bacterial problem responds to copper. Based on research trials at Michigan State University, it is best to begin a copper spray program on tomato transplants as soon as the true leaves emerge and to re-apply the sprays every five days. To stay within label specifications of a seven-day application interval, copper-based products may need to be alternated. Streptomycin (i.e., AG Streptomycin and Agri-mycin 17) can also be used alone or in combination with copper products to limit bacterial disease on greenhouse tomato transplants. Check with state extension officials to ensure streptomycin is registered in your state. Tanos is labeled to suppress bacterial diseases. Developing problems Problems can develop as seedlings develop. Alternaria and Botrytis can cause problems as the seedlings grow and the lower leaves age, overlap and develop a canopy. Alternaria is also known as early blight and first appears on the oldest leaves mimicking a bulls-eye target with concentric rings in the spot/blotch. Botrytis is everywhere within the environment and is best known as grey mold because of its fuzzy grey spore masses that are produced on diseased leaves and stems. It is not uncommon for Botrytis to infect older tomato transplants via the cotyledons which are clinging to the stem. The pathogen then progresses into the stem and may constrict and girdle it. Botrytis and Alternaria require the leaves stay wet for at least four to six hours so their spores can germinate and grow into the plant and cause disease. If the relative humidity is high during the day and the temperature drops even a degree or two, the moisture in the air can condense onto the foliage as a fine film and provide enough water for the spores to germinate and infect the plant. Botytis is primarily a greenhouse problem but may also occur in low and high tunnels if there is inadequate ventilation and air movement. Once plants are moved outside, there is better air circulation and Botrytis becomes less of a problem. Alternaria is a common problem in field production where it can overwinter in tomato plant debris. It can also occur on seedlings in the greenhouse. Botrytis and Alternaria spores move on air currents within the greenhouse. Since they are common pathogens in the environment, the distance they might travel is not considered to be of great importance. Reducing disease infection Keeping the relative humidity lower than 85 percent and providing good air circulation limits disease. Water that accumulates under benches and tight plant spacing can contribute to pockets of high relative humidity that favors Alternaria and Botrytis. Preventive fungicides are nearly always applied to prevent Botrytis and Alternaria since they can be frequent problems. There are several formulations of the fungicide Dithane available that can protect greenhouse seedlings. Heritage is also available and is especially effective against Alternaria and can be used in alternation with Dithane. Tanos can be used against Alternaria and can be alternated in a treatment program along with Dithane and/or Heritage to protect tomato seedlings. Decree is recommended when Botrytis control is needed.

I’m glad to find this thread. I have brand new matte white 30x30” porcelain tiles that were just installed. I love these tiles, but unfortunately I have two large puppies. After going for a walk, they leave oily black footprints all over the floor. I’m going crazy trying to keep the floors clean. It seems worse if their paws touch water. I spend a lot of my time every day cleaning the floors. I am using the bona mop and a spray bottle with water. It cleans off but the next day after a walk, it is back. It is also staining my new grout. Luckily it comes out easily.Is there a protectant that can prevent this? I tried cleaning their paws today, but it doesnt seem to have worked and one dog was not co-operative. I am now shoping for large rugs. Any other suggestions? Thank you!