To follow on Bus's comment, heat is proportional to wattage. I would expect that any combination of lamps summing to the maximum specified (in this case 120 watts) would be safe. An interesting side comment : a single 120 watt lamp (if such a creature existed) would produce more light than two 60 watt lamps. All other things being equal, the higher wattage lamp is more efficient at producing light. Check the lumens/Watt ratings of various wattages of 120 volt, standard service bulbs, to see what I mean. If you want to be really safe (and save some money on electricity in the bargain), fit a screw-in compact fluorescent. It will produce much less heat for a given amount of light.

I have zero knowledge about wiring or anything electrical. Then you might want to find a friend who has more electrical experience or hire an electrician. I'd think rather than trying to rig something up, you'd be better off buying a pre-assembled, plug-in type fixture that will give you the light you want. As rewire suggested, the "puck" type lights are a good choice and commonly available.

Well, magnetic doesn't really have a bearing on this as far as I know. The only issue is not all transformers are created equal. I know guys who really enjoy designing and winding their own transformers. I prefer to buy mine ready made for the application (I like to build tube amps). but it does mean you are dealing with low volt AC and not DC. So the LED has to deal with the AC/DC conversion. I could also suffer from just cheaply made LEDs with my range hood. That said, getting back to a previous point, I wouldn't disconnect the transformers and run all the lights off of one. Magnetic transformers like to be close to the target, so you have line length limitations. And kind of in general, unless I plan on going back to rewire everything, I am not a big fan of modifying household electrical equipment. If you forget and sell the house, chances are someone will have to go back and back trace your handy work. Yeah, a safety issue. I'm not a recessed lighting fan, so I don't keep up with the gear, but I know there are companies that sell retrofit replacements and systems. I don't imagine there would be any drywall ripping needed (though, having ripped out drywall myself, still an easy fix). But I would only look at that if I needed/wanted dimming. You need electronic dimming, not electrical dimming. Maybe someone else can chime in on that. Joe

RL, The transformer doesn't appear to have surged or doesn't it appear to be damaged in any way. It is a Malibu 300 watt transformer with a dial type timer with inserts on the dial to set times to operate. The transformer is plugged in and the low voltage wires are connected to the transformer. The other low voltage path lights and step lights all operate fine. Only the post lights are not operating. Do the candelabra sockets go bad? How do I check them?