When you're both getting ready, are you both using the sink? For me, I would prefer the single sink with storage over a narrow double pedestal with less storage. While I do have a double sink and I like having it, I would like it a whole lot less if I did not have enough counter space or storage. We rarely are both using the sinks at the same time. I just enjoy being able to have a more pristine sink that's "mine" even though we are usually not both using sinks at the same time.

OMG, I can't believe they make a special recessed cabinet for plungers! Anyway, something like that would actually work really well. I'm not sure how much recessed storage I'll be able to have, though, because I have no idea what's in my walls. As you can see, the current medicine cabinet over the sink and that hamper are recessed, but that's partially because the lower half of the walls are built out with cement, and that's being torn out in the remodel. Perhaps that Hy-dit would fit in the old hamper space... Gscience, I agree with you that non-recessed cabs can make the place look smaller. I'd like to recess a cab in the spot where the blond wood cab is not - if I can't, I may just put a mirror there. I'm also planning a much larger medicine cabinet over the sink - don't know if I'll be able to recess it, so I guess I'll wait to buy anything until my contractor starts tearing things up... Anyway, thanks for the ideas, ladies - keep 'em coming!!!!!

I have been very busy and not checking in to this forum. Thanks to all for the comments. The contractor installed the Duravit Vero sink/counter and the FOGO vanity, and I am not happy. Having been very busy with my day job, I was not able to watch closely how thoroughly they installed the blocking between the studs, and came home one day and the wall was closed (tiled) in. So I had no choice but to trust the contractor and wait till he installed the Duravit. Now the vanity seems to be hung solidly, but the countertop/sink (one piece ceramic, which wieghs about 80 lbs) is about 1/8th inch away from the wall at the top, but touches the wall at the bottom of the skirt (5 inch high skirt) I can move the sink up and down that 1/8 inch. When I open the vanity drawer, the top of the drawer bumps against the bottm of the countertop skirt. The contractor says when we put things in the drawer, it will weigh down and this won't happen. I knew at the time this was bull, but was so dumbfounded at his attitude, I was not sure how to respond. I suspect that he is affraid to tighten the two lag bolts the extra 1/8 inch for one reason or another. On possible reason is that he is affraid to crack the ceramic. Another is that (I am just guessing at this) he mounted the bolts too deep into the wall, so that there is not enough of the bolt left to turn (?Guessing) Does anyone have any ideas on (a) what went wrong inside the wall, and (2) how to handle this contractor, who is very moody (some days very accomodating and other times, very stubborn). Note: the instructions call for mounting this entire ceramic one-piece sink/contertop (41 inches wide x 19 inches deep x 5 inches high) with two lag bolts (about 1/2 in) through the back of the ceramic skirt into the wood framing. So I imagine the ceramic is strong enough to handle it.

No. I am not saying the plumber is a lying. In fact, I now agree that you are getting a good service for $80. I guess my creative writing went over your head. I should have been more careful. Make no mistake: I do not and never would recommend duct tape to repair this problem. It was a playful reference to the Âall purpose repair. But I said it, because that would actually get rid of the odors. The Fernco fitting is a rubber sleeve with a high-strength band that will be a truly adequate remedy and to-code. Since this is a not a professional site, and appeals to DIYers, I was sort of suggesting that you are already doing the most of the work by exposing this repair. It is one small step to repair the pipe. Then again, for 8 dimes, you can let him work in the cramped attic, cut cast iron, if need and make the repair. Probably he will guarantee it. Unfortunately my mind wandered far astray, in pursuit of the truth about corrosion. That I will stand behind. Cast iron pipe and the other black kind (ABS, which you don't have, I suppose) and other pipe rated DVW are especial suitable for their resistance to corrosion. In any case, it has to be an extreme rarity for this pipe to fail in the way you described. I have seen CI pipe corrode and leak where raw sewage has stood for a long time. This occurs when there is a chronic problem, such as reverse slope, or long-term clogging, where the effluent stands in the pipe  always a horizontal one. (A vertical would have to be filled too, but fail later.) So, I am sticking with my statement that sewer gases are not the cause of this huge, gaping hole. It makes no sense that any corrosive agent would be concentrated at one point, and predictably, " at this spot (right above the toilet connection.)" Assuming that a conventional installation, using a closet bend, is how the toilet is connected, that fitting will flow into a sanitary Tee. And the vent pipe just above that is inserted into the hub of the Tee. That, in those years, would have been a lead-and-oakum caulk joint. The pipe would have been cut with a stress-inducing chain cutter, typically. IÂm guessing, that the pipe was partially broken during the installation, years ago. And that the subsequent joint making, which packs lead tightly against the OD of the pipe, introduced a heavy permanent breaking forced. Finally, with aging, vibration and thermal changes, the old damage revealed itself as a hole. If the break-out is small, it may not matter a lot. If one large piece fell to the bottom of the stack, it could create a clog there. Keep your eyes open for that. Sorry to be so hard on the guy. HeÂs probably a pretty good egg after all. But IÂd look out for the other fellow. $400 for a Âsmoke test means heÂs keeping the good stuff for himself. Fine Columbian, probably. Pinoke