If I were you, I would go with the birch/beech interiors rather than white. My kitchen cabs are birch/beech, and the cabs in the laundry room are white. The wood-look wears better IMO. Some of the white interiors and shelves also have a nubby texture that shows dirt a lot more. Unless you are specifically after a more mod contrasty look like Gaucho, I would think the wood would blend a bit better with creamy coffee (dark?) paint. Here's a pic of my wood interior together with the painted white doors. You cannot see the birch at all when the doors are closed, even when you're standing very close. My doors came from Advantage, and I got the factory-finish paint which was well worth the money. Installed 3.5 yrs ago, and today I have no chips or wear or anything, and they are very easy to keep clean. The few small strips of wood that I added later (around micro and oven drawers) and painted myself - on those, the paint has chipped and rubbed off a little. Factory paint = worth it. Advantage did my doors, drawer fronts, all filler pieces, cover panels, trim. l did have to give them exact specs (which I still have btw including spec drawings for hinge placement etc - email me if you want them). And I specified small tolerances between everything (I think 1/8"). I think you'll find that you won't even want or need edge-banding. I used it on 2 cabs, and that was only to cover the rough edge left on a deep cab that was hacked down. It was a bit of a pain to apply (especially on already installed cabs) and doesn't really look that nice (but it is better than rough particle board). I certainly wouldn't bother with a whole kitchen just to change the color of the cab edges, when the correctly spec'd doors already do a perfect job of that. This post was edited by jenswrens on Sat, Jan 25, 14 at 16:32

Exactly which part of the hinge are you talking about? I thought I knew, but now you have me confused. Do you have a photo? The part that goes in the door itself or the part that is hammered and screwed into the cabinet box? I've removed and reused multiple hinges (both parts) on several of our IKEA cabs (over and over in at least 4 different permutations of door style changes and cab modifications) and the only part that ever gets fouled up are the little white plastic plug-things that get hammered into the cabinet carcass beneath the screws. If yours are actually breaking (which seems very odd to me) you may be better off going to IKEA and buying a whole new hinge. So which is it, the part to the left or to the right? I'm dying to know.

Understand that if you only had Blum to look at, you would be farther ahead. Blum is the source of all things Ikea-ey in terms of Ikea's kitchen base cabinets, the Blum drawers that Ikea sells, and the drawer heights that ARE available to you when you merely install the raw un-doored drawer that you get when you buy an Ikea (Blum) drawer. Drawer fronts are a different animal. The 3 sizes of Ikea drawers are not Blum-determined, Blum-decided, Blum-dictated. They are not Blum-ey. They are an ikea internal marketing committee decision. They are a bad choice for YOU but they are a good choice for the ikea marketing person who has to justify to the rest of ikea what to manufacture ship stock track and promote. If you were "ikea" you would sell a reduced set like this too. Do not buy these sizes. Unless they suit you. Looking in Blum brochures and catalogs you may begin to see images of these OTHER size options you have. Call Blum. See Blum web site. Act as if Blum were the only source. Then, use Ikea as a dumb hardware store that gives dumb advice but has the item you'll buy. In an ikea store, look underneath to see the overhang created when the three ikea standard size drawer fronts get clipped onto the Blum drawer. Then, look at the exact opposite: the aluminum internal drawer front (another ikea option). unixisgoodforyou, it's fine to limit yourself to the 32mm spacing of the predrilled holes on thecabinet side. This spacing corresponds to the spacing that Blum drawers use. ((Again, consult Blum not ikea)). If you wanted to put a batch of the shallowest-possible drawers inside one cabinet, the middle ones would be about 3.5" in height. Call Blum and ask about this; it's not an Ikea question. Whether or not this will mean that your highest one will be 3.5"h or 3.75" or whatever will depend on details that you will see when you purchase a single "rraw" drawer and play with it. Also, it might depend on your countertop, or on the wood bracing inside the cabinet (which I removed, in my case, because the flat steel countertop frame is my cross-bracing). Only Blum is Blum. No ikea employee is ever going to know as much as a Blum employee. Do not think about Ikea. Pretend Ikea does not exist; plan everything as though Blum were the only thing. At the last minute go buy the drawers at Ikea. End of story. Here is an example of an ikea hardware search: rationell+deep = Blum drawers and ikea drawer front (if you want a "front" of that height. http://www.ikea.com/us/en/search/?query=rationell%2Bdeep In the ikea search engine, i used keywords : rationell+deep Here is the SHALLOW internal drawer front. It goes onto any M height Blum drawer (of the Tandembox type) which you might purchase from any other source of M height Tandembox by Blum. http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/40132391 Tandembox is roughly from pages 200 to 350 of the Blum bible. Tandembox drawers come in heights N, M, B, K, etc. It is more efficient to buy one Ikea drawer instead of reading catalogs. There do exist some differences between some of the Blum Tandembox products and the Ikea version of Blum Tandembox. It might be good to know these differences. But it is not important yet. Now you are at the stage where you are planning height(s). There are no differences in terms of drawer heights or slider mechanisms. In the unadorned "raw" drawer. A "raw" drawer purchased at Ikea is a kit containing many Blum parts and no other parts from any other company. Onto a drawer you can attach ANY size drawer front, made by anyone.It could overhang or it could be sized "just right". When you buy the drawer at Ikea, it comes with the attaching clips that will hold a drawer front onto it. It's a kit. When you order Blum parts from any supplier of Blum parts, you can order these clips separately. There are millions of these clips available for free in the "As-Is" section of Ikea because the clips are unnecessary when you attach the internal drawer front. Here is a link that might be useful: SHALLOW internal drawer front that goes onto a Blum M

@jdesign_gw, thanks. I gave up on the extra complications awhile back. Ordering at least two Godmorgons and sticking with the IKEA sinks (and probably faucets). The Cabinet Face and a few others offer side panels as well as drawer fronts in the wood veneers, so I'm going with that. And I sent my G.C. to IKEA (and provided videos) so he could see the plumbing differences. :) I was just asking the question in case somehow we wrecked a drawer front at some point. Wondering how difficult it is to replace (do you have to take the whole thing apart, or replace the whole cabinet too?).