for Ryan, Trane has nothing even close to the Infinity Control. Until recently, the best they offered was the 803-just overcools for humidity control and no "dehumidify on demand" feature. Now to the 900XL. I believe this stat is only compatible with certain models/systems. Let me know if I am wrong and I'll stand corrected. I still say that Trane stats continue to be weak link and it sure makes a statement that one has to go to a third party supplier to overcome a gaping hole in their product line especially with their high end HVAC. Sorry,just a pet peeve of mine that seems could be easily corrected. for davidandkasie, I still would try suggestions 1 and 2. any idea what the blower speed is curently set to? and obviously, you want your fan set on "auto" to keep from re-introducing humidity into your home following a cooling call. My Opinion. Best Rgds TD

"So, what I don't understand is if my deflection is L/868, why is that not sufficient for tile? That is great than L/720, so what is wrong with that?" I believe the only person to say it was not sufficient was Sophie because she was looking at the wrong number. "Sophie Wheeler last Thursday at 8:41PM It is LD 360, which is sufficient for small to medium porcelain (12"), but not large format (defined as any tile with an edge over 16") or any natural stone other than maybe a small mosaic. None of the long plank tile, and no marble etc. You will have cracked tile if you go outside those guidelines" . "That is great than L/720, so what is wrong with that?" L/868 is LESS THAN L/720 just as 1/4 is less than 1/2. The floor should have LESS deflection than L/720. . "I don't love the idea of being limited in floor tile size for remodels and such though. And, with the the floor tile we picked, do we have to worry about grout cracking?" It is hard to tell you anything definitive on this side of the internet. Someone that is actually there will have to look at things more closely, but so far, so good. All anyone can do away from the job is look at the calculations. "So what does : when tested per ASTM A108 mean? You have a kitchen floor tiled, Does engineer use a worst case calculation to satisfy the TESTED statement?" Yes, basically, the calculations are done before the plans are finalized or the floor built, so it is hard to "test" it at that point. After the floor is built, testing is moot to a point because it only tells you what you can no longer fix very well. The only thing that testing after the subfloor is done really does is warns you not to use the big tile you may have wanted. "You have a party and you have 20 + people milling around in kitchen, maybe some are pretty BIG people, ..." The calculations don't quite go to that "worse case". The "live load" is listed as 40 pounds per square foot, so 200÷40 means that a population density of more than one person per 5 square feet would go over the limit. That is an area 27"×27", so if everyone tried to see how tightly they could pack together and jumped up and down in the middle of the floor, it would probably crack the grout. That is one reason to add strong backs, cross-bridging in the middle of the joist spans. But it is often better to increase the size of the joist and space them closer together. (Less time, and less potential squeeks) . "I don't love the idea of being limited in floor tile size for remodels and such though. And, with the the floor tile we picked, do we have to worry about grout cracking?" Everything may be fine. Assuming the floor joist are all the same height and type, you need to get the numbers on the "actual deflection" of the total load, taking into account the weight of the tile and underlayment/tile bed you will be using for the LONGEST joist span that will be under a tiled area. Some stone applications can increase the dead load to above the 15 pounds allotted in these load sheets. Therefore, the total load would be more than the 55 pounds. There are an infinite number of possibilities, and you can't allow for all of them without spending twice as much money.

Full disclosure - I own a Tankless gas water heater and love it. I had a 50gal tanked gas water heater before. Due to space constraints, it could not be replaced. It was in the doorway of the utility room. Here is what I learned when looking at Tankless water heaters. Just like when you want to go solar, you have to get more efficient with your appliances. The things I did to change my plumbing fixtures were intrinsic. All these things below were done as part of replacing aging fixtures and were not related to the tankless decision but made the decision and experience with tankless flawless. Replaced all but one bathroom shower valve with a Thermostatic valve. The last one will be replaced this winter. Replace all shower heads with units that used no more than 2.5gal/min Replaced all bathroom and kitchen faucets with units that used less than 2.5gal/min My dishwashers and washers already heated their own water and all but one of my Washers can use all cold water as input. The dishwasher and washers were energy efficient and used small amounts of water. There is a large bathtub in the house and the tankless water heater is wonderful for this. We take a bath maybe twice a week. I am getting a separate temperature controller for the tub bathroom so that the filling can happen without interfering with other activities. Currently, showers take priority. My house hold has 3 adults in it and we always seem to be in the shower at the same time (3 full bathrooms). With the tankless water heater, this is no longer an issue. I like in Maryland where we get really cold in the winter:-). I have a recirculator with my tankless water heater and that is on a timer. It runs for a few hours in the morning and a few hours in the evening. When the recirculator is not running, it takes about 1minute to get hot water to the farthest location in the house. I may add the point of use tankless heater to the bathroom faucets just because it wastes time to wait for hot water. This issue with hot water at the farthest location was always a problem. I purchased the largest residential tankless water heater which with a 30degree rise, will get you 9.6gpms. This would theoretically allow me to run 3 showers and a faucet at the same time. My unit is programmed to 110F degrees and the showers are set to about 105F degrees. The thermostat for the tankless is in an easy to reach location in the hallway and I can easily increase or decrease the water temperature. I originally started at 140F which is the max temp. I changed it the first day when I could barely wash my hands without burning them. My temperature rise in the summer is about 35F degrees and 50F degrees in the winter. When I went with tankless, I had heard all the horror stories of cold water sandwiches, huge volume drops due to cold incoming water and flow rate to get started at the sink. I have not experienced any of this. I think the thermostatic valves in the shower contribute to this quite a bit. I am able to get hot water at the sink in under 10 seconds except for the farthest unit. When the recirculator is running, the water is hot within 2 seconds. Just enough time to flush the water from the steel part of the faucet. Propane would be my choice in your situation. Electric tanked or tankless water heaters would leave you in a lurch when the power went out. Propane tankless water heaters don't perform as efficiently as the natural gas units but that is true of all propane appliances. I have my tankless water heater hooked up to an uninterruptable power supply in the event of a power failure which we have quite often. I also have a small gasoline back up generator and the tankless unit works fine when connected. I have a Rinnai RUR98i. This unit has a built in recirculator pump. You can also purchase a separate recirculator with the tankless or tanked unit of your choice. I purchased it from build.com and my plumber installed it. I also installed the scale water filter before the unit and this keeps the unit operational without a lot of build up. The unit is just over a year old and I performed a maintenance in the summer. There was very little build up. I am also installing a whole house filter for sediment and chlorine due to some work the water company is doing in my neighborhood for the next year. I have not selected a solution yet for the whole house filter. Good luck with your decision.

Update. I ran a medium size load of clothes this morning. Used sanitary cycle with Cheer powder, Tblspn Borax, Tblspn STPP and added some ammonia. No smell at end of the load. I will continue with this routine for our clothing. Maybe I will be able to drop the ammonia at some point once the permastink is out of our clothes. DH has agreed to ditch any of his shirts that we can't get the stink out of. Some of his shirts are many years old. I'm sure I will be sniffing every item of clothing from now on. I had a question about steam. There is some sort of steam cycle on my LG washer. Is it helpful for anything? I had steam cycle on my previous machine and never used it.