attached are a few more pics of the stems so you can see the color and how they are limp with only buds. it has rained quite heavily lately - could that be why? should i cut these stems off or leave them? change fertilizer to something that will help strengthen the stems? if so what?

The bottom pictures look like mine have the last couple of days. It has been unbelievably hot here in WNC lately. I even had to bring one of mine into the house today because she looked so pitiful. A couple hours and she perked back up. I am now watering every day and even adding a glass if it gets too hot.

This is my first year growing so I have been using MG Bloom Booster (18-24-16). I am going to stop using it. It is the common thread in my plants that are getting black spots on the buds.

Gary, I saw Jobes in the stake form. Is it too late in the season to switch to something like that? I can't compare to last year or anything but I am not sure BB has made a significant difference in my blooms.

You can top or side dress with the Jobe's granular. I'm leery of their fertilizer stakes. If you chose to use their organic granular, be reminded that it is biologically active and would therefore require that you scratch it in to the soil in order that the mycorrhizal content find its way to the roots. MG's All-Purpose 24-8-16 would be a good choice if you elect to remain with a liquid feed. The 3:1:2 ratio is ideal for most flowering plants. I suggest that you use half the recommended rate following a 14-21 day application regimen. Aside from the desirable fertilizer ratio, the inclusion of chelated micronutrients found in MG products will also serve your plantings very nicely.

CM,

I am so sorry that you are having a difficult time. :( I don't understand why the stems are so rubbery. Mine were wilty a week or so ago when we had a really hot spell here in WNC.

I learned a valuable lesson in staking. On one hot day, we had a series of thunder storms move through here and it knocked one of mine over, which was staked. It broke the plant below the soil line. I have staked it up and it looks like at least the top bud will still bloom but I don't have much hope for the rest of the plant. *lesson learned*

Next year we are going to tomato cage EVERYTHING!

Is it possible for you to move the weakest ones closest to the house so that you can provide them with some shade and some extra babying to see if they perk back up.

I skipped one of my 14 day fertilizing days and just fertilized again today.

Gary,

On the granular, do you mix it in with the soil when you plant? I think that is why I have used liquid this year...it seems fool proof.

The granular should be soil incorporated. However, a supplemental side dress of top-dress application could equally useful. Admittedly, I rely upon my liquid feeds, but, I do so because foundationally my nutrient supply is gained by my pre-plant application and soil amendment. If you elect to use a mycorrhizal infused fertilizer such as the Jobe's Organic product line, the mycorrhizae require contact with the roots in order to perform. Top and side dressings should therefore be scratched and watered in upon application.

I wanted to share a series of photos showing my dahlia's performance this second week of July. I reside in Milwaukie, Oregon which, of late, has been under a sustained heatwave in the mid-90s.

Additional examples of

growth rate and top-pinch responses in various dahlia cultivars.

CM - Go easy with the additional fertilizer, Instead, consider pruning to remove broken sections and encourage new bud breaks. I learned last year that by allowing my plants to grow full, they grew too full and literally split in half. The farm where I buy my tubers suggested that I top-pinch early to force bud break and provide a more balanced foundation to support the plant's fuller growth later in the season. I posted pictures earlier depicting this process. Frankly, we too often go to fertilizer or water to remedy what is ailing our plants with the result often not being to our liking. Also, using a 1:1 ratio fertilizer will result in a balanced response by the treated plant. Essentially, with none of the three macro's being greater than the other, the resulting growth will be modest, healthy and free of any type of exaggerated response as is often experienced with specialized fertilizer ratio applications.

Hi Gary,

Nice healthy plants ! Were they started indoors before planting outside ?

No, Dan. With one exception they were planted as sprouted tubers in late May.

Help! does anyone know what this is in my pot on my petunias? is it a good pest or bad? could it be eating the petunias (some are being eaten). Help??

I'm not sure, but I would remove it just to be sure!

[smiles]...I suspect it's the Tobacco Budworm [Heliothis virescens]. A common nuisance in flowering petunia every summer. Get rid of it.

Thanks Gary &Krazycoupons1 - I got rid of it last night. I hope there are no others!