Organic fertilizers are by nature slow acting. That is one of their advantages - you don't have to worry about fertilizer burn. I don't understand why you are using soy. If you want to get a good soil food web going, don't till. Leave your well composted chicken manure on top. It will get watered int. Worms are a sign of healthy soil.

I have no problem myself with GMO stuff, but it's true that by USDA regulations, GMO organisms are prohibited in organic products. So, by definition, GMO-amended beds are not organic and cannot be certified as such.

I also use all kinds of organic amendments, composts, manures, bark fines, ... Bu I also fertilise with synthetics, be it granular or water soluble.
So I consider myself a middle of the roader.
I think one should be reminded that synthetic fertilizers are naturally occurring compositions such as sulfates, phosphates, .... and that they are not synthesized from scratch.

Sey

I try to lean towards 'organic', natural ways. For the same reason as mentioned by lindalana, I do not purchase synthetic fertilizers, but I do have some that I collected for free. I use the synthetics in small moderate doses, but never rely on them as a staple. Mostly I use them so as not to see waste. I'll use them in small doses until they are gone.

Someone would have to explain the science to me, but I can't imagine how the very moderate use of a 5-10-5 synthetic fertilizer is somehow damaging the soil. Perhaps if you had very poor drainage you could experience a build-up of salts, and that could affect the soil, but if you had poor drainage, even organics would eventually have problems.

As others have said, the biggest issue is the labeling. If you are selling produce, and using that fertilizer, you couldn't, by any stretch, call it organic. And if it were for your own consumption, well, the same.

Most synthetics fertilizers, as well as the salts, are fairly readily water soluble. Again, as long as you have decent drainage, I can't imagine how it is doing long- or short-term damage to the soil.

well I learned a lot didn't know much about the gmo material. are alfalfa pellets a better alternative? I also don't like scotts products. funny thing I have found using products that come from the sea very beneficial. would like to try crab shell.

Synthetic fertilizers are no "Organic" but most certainly are NATURAL. That is driven formulated from the nature.
Our planet Earth at one point was 100% INORGANIC. The living organism started from the inorganic matter and increased. ... THE THIRD ROCK FROM THE SUN !!

Agreed Sey... I just don't want to feed the industries that make the synthetics. Their practices are not the most environmentally sound, and the waste products, as well as misuse by consumers, adds to environmental 'malpractice'.

That said... scientifically speaking, once the product exists, plants can make use of the fertilizers. For me... as long as there are no 'labeling issues' or personal ethical questions, why not make use of it?

As for calling them natural vs. synthetic, or organic vs. inorganic well... that is a philosophical ethics question and matters of terminology beyond my desire to confront lol. Each person needs to decide that for themselves and try to not get too worked up when others use different terms. Just because the Government chooses to form standards of terms (often affected by lobbying from competing factions) doesn't mean something fits into one's personal definition of 'natural' or 'organic'. It does, however, affect the practical issue of labeling.

Hi marc antonio,
Many people here have suggested Tomato-Tone fertilizer as a good organic fertilizer option you might try for side dressing. Because T-T comes inoculated with the optimal microbes required to break it down it ought to be faster acting, and also speed up the breakdown of your chicken manure and other raw fertilizers you have. If you haven't already tried it I would think it is worth testing.
PC

Personally I think there is a whole range of successful approaches between "organic" and "non-organic". It all depends on how dogmatic you want to be and where you draw the line in the sand, or dirt. :)

Years ago I was certified organic but over time the rules, the increased costs with a smaller market, all the political hoopla issues like GMO and boycotting companies that kept getting tacked on to being organic, the misleading seed marketing ploys, and the grandiose claims made about quality became so irritating that I let the certification go.

I don't use MG products but not because of who makes them. I just think there are better products that happen to be natural, even some better ones that aren't. I refuse to label Monsanto as the devil incarnate. I do use various meal supplements and could care less if they are GMO or not because I use them in the garden, I don't eat them. I refuse to buy into much of the organic purist claims of thou shalt not __________ and thou shalt only _________ (fill in the blanks) but am I an organic gardener? As far as I am concerned I am.

Dave

I also consider myself a middle of the road gardener. I try to take advantage of any organic matter
that I have. But you can have too much
of it as anything else. If you try to grow plants in 100% organic matter you
will likely have problems such as draining or compaction even low fertility; because
your plant swill not be able to use the elements It contains First the organisms in
the soil must break it down into a soluble form the plant can take up in its roots.

Most experienced gardeners have an understanding of the importance
of the NPK and trace elements.

They are important to the plants and also to the microbes
and fungi, as well as us animals.

I see people that use buzz words and terms such as organic vs
inorganic, synthetic vs natural chemicals.

Salts are bad for the
environment.

No till is better than
tilling the soil.

But the simple fact is the world is made of chemicals,
including life. All chemicals are made from the basic elements, and by
definition natural. If the elements in a chemical are the same it makes no difference
to the plants if they are manmade or by any other organism.

Salts are bad because they can build up in the soil..

That is possible but it is not a common occurrence. It happens primarily in deserts where there
is not enough rainfall.

I would offer the chemical definition of a salt.

Chemistry. any of a
class of compounds formed by the replacement of one or more hydrogen atoms of
an acid with elements or groups, which are composed of anions and cations, and
which usually ionize in solution; a product formed by the neutralization of an acid
by a base.

The key words for this topic are; which usually ionize in solution:
that is dissolves in water.

I would say that when most people see or hear the word salt they
think of table salt Sodium chloride, which has little use in the garden. But there are many chemicals classed as salts.
Plants can only take minerals from the soil when they are dissolved in water,
and for the most part those chemicals are salts.

No till is better than tilling the soil.

It is true you can over till your soil if you pulverize it
to the point it causes compaction.

But the reason for tilling soil is to mix up the top mostly
organic layer with the mineral nutrients in the lower area. And to incorporate
air which is as important to the biomass of the soil as water.

If you make your own compost you know how much faster things
happen when you turn your compost pile. That is you are tilling your compost.

Even no till lasagna gardens are tilled but it is primarily
done by earth worms. Worms are great but they are much slower than a garden
tiler or garden fork.

I've observed certain things over the years of gardening.

but i'll say more important than fertilizing in most cases '

plants need sun and air circulation. so spacing is important.thats one thing.

any product from the sea

seems to work better than other stuff kelp for example .

I believe oxygen penetrating the soil is very important a lighter soil grows better crops. I feel guilty to use it now but peat moss has always given me great results. and the small boosts of 5-10-5 make a difference especially while flowering and producing fruit. guess i'll just keep doing what i'm doing.

I have respect to those who do it organically.
To me the most part of "Organic" movement (in gardening) is environmental concern than the health of, soil, plants and ultimately those who consume the final products. I am also aware of the residues of the pesticides, fungicide on the fruits and vegetables that we consume. But that also include "Organic" ones. Because something is "organic" it does not mean that it is safe 100% to our health.
Sey

Or the environment for that matter. See pyrethrin for example, or even copper. I could say more but I don't want to start a fight. :)

Here's more food for thought: even though they are good fertilizers, seaweed fertilizers carry a Prop. 65 warning in California because anything from the ocean may contain traces of heavy metals. Tilling a compost pile is different from tilling soil. Read "Teaming with Microbes" which explains the soil food web. Ideal soil should be 25% water, 25% air, 45% minerals and 5% organics.

The fact is that the environment and soil is not designed to support the unnatural gardens we have, and anything we do is going to have side effects. It is just a fact of humanity and nature.