Hi sjrose77/Sarah, Welcome to Garden Web and The Plant Exchange. Please see addressing newbie and newer member issues for instructions on getting your Member Page email link set up so that you can easily be reached for trading. While updating, you might also want to fill in your location in the one box provided for the garden zone as some members (myself included) usually won't respond to trade posts where the member's location is not shown on their Member Page. See I am zone 5/6 S INDIANA Often it is more costly to trade, depending on what one is shipping and where the trader is located. Hopefully you will soon learn the ins and outs of plant trading along with the postage costs. Priority Mailing costs-including Flat Rate Postal Zone Charts I know everyone in the eastern part of the US are in mail zones 1-4 which are more reasonable shipping costs. hth. Sue...aka chemocurl

Best thing to do is post in the tropical plant forums or the plumeria forums - also try y*hoo groups (plant swap) thats all these guys trade is cuttings and seeds of plumeria - you will be very hard pressed to find this plant or its seeds up here in the great white north - there are a couple people from Hawaii in (plant swap) that trade these this will ensure you get fresh seed - tropical seed usually is short lived so it is best to get it fresh. Remember plumeria get very large 30-40 feet so in 4-5 years you will need a greenhouse to overwinter them .Here is a site to check out http://www.plumeria101.com/

Vertrees excerpt appears to refer to what I am talking about - seeds picked earlier having come up more readily. Otherwise you can find all kinds of dogma online saying they won't come up unless you wait until they are hard and brown. Same sources then go to describe in detail a whole bunch of rigamarole you have to go through to overcome the fact that they were left to become hard and brown before planting. Research conducted during 1991-3 determined that autumn-ripening maples have inner seed coat dormancy that has to be defeated in addition to outer seed coat dormancy, with sprouting being greatly expedited by removal of outer seed coats and poking or partial slicing etc. of inner seed coats. A problem is trying to find a way to do this with any efficiency, and without damaging the embryos in the process. About this time or earlier the improved results from earlier harvesting thing was being mentioned, for instance Maples for Gardens (1994 Timber Press): Seed collected green in early September typically germinates better the following spring I first heard about better results from planting of still soft maple seeds from a specialist tree and shrub nurseryman. If you combine what became known about maple seed coat dormancy with recommendations to gather seed before it becomes hard, plant it right away the implication is there is a window in late summer when the seeds are mature enough to germinate but seed coat dormancy has not yet kicked in. How this all relates to the original subject is that it might be just as well to wait for next year's crop instead of using hard and brown, fully dormant seeds from this year. However, a few of these coming up next spring may be possible, if they have been subjected to cold this whole time - as in lying around on the ground beneath the tree (preferably protected by fallen leaves). If getting only one or two seedlings within a year or two is enough it might still be worth planting some of those.

propagation via cuttings would work best for oleanders (which by the way is toxic so use gloves). I suggest you put in a request via the plant exchange or seed exchange forum