I was refering to side mounted rails that are used by Kraftmaid which are side mounted expoxy coated rails with plastic wheels that slide down the tracks which are 3/4 extension. I am not that stupid to presume to know what the side mounted rails are like that are in your supposed custom kitchen. This thread is a good example of the blind leading the blind on here more often then not. For the info of anyone who wants to learn something and not continue to spread miss information soft close has an engineering purpose. The cabinet companies do not put them on cabinets to make you think they look cool. When you build a cabinet drawer to be rated for 100 lbs or more in weight the cabinet maker adds soft close mechanism so it is not possible to slam the drawer shut and crack the face frame of the cabinet. A side mounted full extension slide in an of itself is not superior an undermount full extension glide. I have several cabinet companies I sell that use them. They are not easy to slam shut they way they are made. They also have rubber bumper at the end of the track in the back of the cabinet which holds the drawer shut when you close it. Every cabinet I sell with side mounted full extension glides are the same as those on Husky, Kobalt, and craftsman mechanics tool boxes I keep my tools in. If you made cabinets that you are going to provide a warranty for, and you make the drawers to be rated for 100 plus pounds, would you want to warranty the cabinet frame would not fall apart in a home with domestic violence? The drawers would be slaming shut everytime someone is mad at another person and lets out their frustration on the drawers and doors. Their is a reason people make things the way they do. Just as I stated in the first post their is a reason the guy wants to use the side mounted that the person with the original post did not understand to restate.

Okay so I really need your guys help! The original pic I posted was of the current house b/c I wasnt able to get to the new house at the moment. The carpenter who did this doesn't seem to want to make the time to come and fix it... Please see pics of the new railing, inspector said just to do a straight cut on both pieces of wood and to place an "S" piece of wood to connect the two. But where the spindle is concerns me, I feel like the "S" would almost skip over the spindle, and we cannot remove the top spindle because then the opening between spindle and wall would be too big! Attaching pics-opinions please..... (Carpenter asked US to pick up the pieces??! We have no idea how to measure and what we're doing?!). What else would we need? I think the inspector mentioned something about a plate to go underneath where it connects? (and I guess that piece against the wall, will need to come off). Thank you in advance..

We looked into both of these for our deck a few years ago. Cable railing can be DIY but difficult due to the tension needed to tighten the cables. Also, there may be issues if you have small children using the cables as a ladder. Glass is AMAZINGLY expensive and we had quite a bit of railing area. It also must be all tempered of course. I'm glad fnmroberts posted their photo and that their glass "almost self cleans". Our deck had lots of birds and pine trees around, along with rainy sprinkles followed by dusty winds ugh. We ended up doing painted galvanized livestock fencing. All DIY. DH used various sizes of aluminum C- and U-channel to provide attachment frames to the posts. FYI, these are 4" squares so I'm not sure that they would pass the code test of small-child-head-sized rubber ball. HTH

That looks like a stile and rail router bitjoint. You would have to measure the dimensions of each face to find the manufacturer of the bits and then duplicate the doors.