The purpose of the tilling was really to pull up some roots and get to what's underneath. The top is all hard and cracked. We got a ton of roots up and pulled out a lot of weeds. We'll be adding a bunch of new dirt and levelling. I've no doubt that will be a long process, but that's ok. This particular stretch does have full sun. It does have a small crepe myrtle, but that doesn't shade it much. This side faces the south, and being on the corner gets morning, afternoon and evening sun, only a tiny bit of it gets filtered by the crepe myrtle. My only worry is that it'll end up with a greenhouse effect and grow even better under the plastic..... That side has some bermuda already (and we left some areas. Plans for that stretch (which is actually bigger than I said - 37x17, I finally measured it today) are not settled yet. It'll have some bermuda in the center, but we're going to semi-xeriscape. I say 'semi' because we do want some grass, but we'd like to minimize water requirements. I'm going to put a border in around the perimeter, though I haven't decided which plants to put in. The border will be ~2 ft in (a little more around the wrap-around porch to incorporate some bushes already there. Along the fence line I'm still debating. We have an ugly chain link fence which we hate, but aren't planning to remove it any time soon. There's bermuda outside the fence in the front (no sidewalk there), but I was thinking of putting in some ivy-type ground covering (sorry, still learning all the names) which will creep over the ugly fence. On the inside we'll have the mulch with some drought-tolerant plants. There's an ivy-type plant growing elsewhere along the fence, but it's pretty messy and strangles the cedar elm, so I'm not sure I want to keep that. The whole property is 1/4 acre, so we have a fair amount of yard to deal with. As we're still in the midst of interior restorations, the outside is a slow process. It's mainly getting attention now because it's one of the few things I can do with my little one (compared to painting, sanding, hanging sheetrock....)

I watered him only when the top inch felt dry and gave him lots of indirect sunlight. However, in the past couple of days, I've noticed brown spots/speckles on the lower leaves and the stems. I have also been reading similar posts from other members and Al's explanations, so I'm assuming the problem is mainly due to overwatering, root rot and/or insects. I also am seeing the fiddle's roots on top of the soil so the best bet seems to be repotting. Having come to this conclusion, I am planning to repot the guy by following Al's famous gritty mix recipe. The brown specks on the leaves are likely oedema, which occurs when the plant's internal water pressure becomes high enough to break through cell walls. The cell's contents then burst and leak into intercellular spaces in the surrounding tissue, which causes a saturated spot that eventually turns corky. The elongated spots on stem structures are openings in the stem's young periderm (bark) called lenticels. Their job is to provide openings through which internal gasses can escape and oxygen from surrounding air can enter the plant's tissue, which requires this gas exchange to remain viable. There is one question, however, that I have not been able to find an answer to anywhere in the forums (or perhaps I'm not researching hard enough). When repotting, am I supposed to remove/cut off the affected leaves? No. A plant's only source of food/energy is the sugar it makes during photosynthesis (glucose). Since every leaf is a food factory, removing them leaves the plant very vulnerable - especially so if it has been growing under stress or strain, leaving it w/o enough energy reserves to push a new flush of foliage. None of my leaves have crispy brown tips, mostly brown speckles on the back of the leaves as well as all over the stems (petiole?). I have seen some people cut away parts of the affected leaves, but that doesn't seem like the best option for me as the speckles are not necessarily concentrated in specific areas. The lower leaves are also starting to droop. If I am not supposed to cut the affected leaves, do they eventually go back to "normal" and lose the spots after repotting and following the correct procedures? Animals are regenerative organisms and can "heal" by regenerating new tissues in the same spacial position as damaged tissued. Plants are not capable of doing that, so damage cannot heal. A blemished leaf will always have the blemishes until the leaf is no more. I guess what I ultimately want to know is, "how do I get rid of the spots?" Some trees are prolific back-budders, IOW, they form new branches from dormant buds above old (leaf) bundle scars and from adventitious buds that arise from the plant's meristematic tissues. Meristematic tissues have cells (STEM cells, thus meriSTEMatic) that are capable of differentiating into any of the plant's organs. You can get rid of spots by getting rid of leaves - by defoliating the entire tree in the summer and when the plant is in a very high state of vitality (has lots of stored energy); or, you can cut the plant back hard and train a new branch to a vertical orientation as the new leader. All the new leaves on the new branches that occur will be pristine, as long as you're able to provide cultural conditions that favor the tree. Your job, as grower, is to identify and eliminate those conditions that are limiting or have the potential to inhibit the plant's ability to realize its genetic potential. That's how I look at growing, and it's served me very well. You can start by making sure you're maintaining a healthy ratio of air:water in the root zone and are fertilizing regularly and appropriately. That air:water thing is by far the most prevalent stumbling block, usually related to a less than ideal soil choice, for most growers ..... and not just the new ones. And YES, you can still repot w/o having to worry about timing. I'd say you're good up until the middle of Aug, or maybe even the first of SEP if it was really important that you repot this year. Still, sooner is better. Al

Violets propagate via rhizomes ( if I recall correctly) a tough woody type root basically, a standard weed killer like 2,4-D will knock the leaves back but won't control them. They are pretty but are problematic when growing turfgrass as they tend to completely take over. I have had very good results using a product called Crossbow in a gallon tank sprayer for spot treatment, it is also effective for other weeds. Violets have a waxy coating on their leaves, a small amount of dish soap (the liquid) mixed allows the product to stick to the leaves, increasing effectiveness. Weedkillers are best applied when weeds are actively growing, after a rainstorm or irrigation. High temperatures and drouth put the lawn into stress, weeds hibernate, therefore, weedkiller applications under these conditions may cause temporary dieback of the grass plant, while leaving the weed almost unaffected. Violet control is not a "one and done" kind of deal, it will take more than one season. With good cultural practices over time a thick healthy turf will better resist weed infestation and require very few chemical treatments.

It looks like you have a bermuda lawn. Do not use Roundup, it will kill your lawn. You can spray the entire with a broad leaf week killer. You can get one that attaches to your hose. You may need to spray it a couple of times. That will take care of the weeds that are not grassy weeds. For the grassy weeds it is best to prevent them with pre emergents. They are granular and are applied like fertilizer. If you are in N. TX then you will need to apply that on March 1, June 1 and Sept. 1. If you live in other parts of TX then check with your County extension agency for the proper dates. Keep your grass cut short, 1-1,1/2" . Taller grass will not be as thick. Mow low and mow often. This will help to thicken the grass. Fertilize once the grass start growing well, lightly every 4-6 weeks if you are trying to improve your lawn. Good luck!