Okay. I'll start right off with the part that you (and others) probably won't like to hear, to get it off my chest and out of the way. :-) When I see a home that has the exact same cabinetry and granite in the bathrooms as in the kitchen, I don't really get a "custom" vibe off it. To MY eye, it is a rather more builder-y look, like the leftovers from the kitchen counters were used up in the bathrooms (the "well, we paid for the whole d@mn slab, use it up!" philosophy) and the bathroom cabinets were lumped into the same order as the kitchen. If you are passionate enough about those cabinets that you want them in the bathrooms, by all means use them, but think about a different stain and a different top; conversely, if your heart is really set on the granite, put it on top of a slightly different cabinet. When I read your post and saw your pictures, though, what popped into my head were Jim Canton's custom "rustic" and "country" (which still has your beadboard door insert and I'm sure stained parts could be matched to the kitchen if you wanted to do that, but I like the mix of painted and stained parts) vanities. Yes, they're expensive - perhaps think of those as inspiration if your budget does not stretch that far. I admit to being a bit of a ho for the unfitted look but if you have the space a pine pie safe type cabinet would be great for storage, stained to match the trim. Since you adore copper as much as I do, copper sinks are almost a no-brainer, and ditto for lighting. Look at Arroyo Craftsman's offerings. I just LOVE their Simplicity series which is so very versatile. I have the "raw copper" SB-1 sconces and hate how they're patinating, so I would recommend the antique copper instead. Clawfoot Supply has some pretty and reasonably-priced copper towel bars etc. (the Aztec line), and this nameless one from A-Ball Plumbing is quite nifty as well. I like how they're all subtly different instead of being really matchy-matchy. For the floors, I think a slate-look porcelain mosaic would look excellent and be very durable/easy to take care of. I myself like a rather scaled-down tile size for a smaller room, and it does provide better traction and believe it or not it's not that busy if the grout is kept to the same color value as the tile. If the bathroom floor were going to actually touch the real slate flooring I would go in a different direction, but since they're separated by carpet and you can't stand on one and see the other, I think you're OK. Both Daltile and AO have very convincing slate-look "suites" in which there's a 12x12 tile and a mosaic; I think it would look great in the tub surround to use the larger tiles as a field with a listello of the mosaic tiles (three rows, say) at about shoulder height. American Olean's "Highland Ridge" has a fabulous mosaic of 1x3 tiles along with 12x12s. Yes, it would darken the tub alcove but that's easily enough rectified with a couple of recessed lights (about the only use I really like the things for! LOL). I think you're a very smart person for eliminating the whole subway-tile schtick, but if the dark tile is just too much for you, I'd think about a 8x8 or 12x12 white tile trimmed out with a slate-look mosaic, as a broad listello and perhaps vertically at the border of the tile. I think the embossed copper you're using for kitchen backsplash would be perfect on the ceilings. Rather than being "in your face" they would be something that you catch out of the corner of your eye, and perhaps don't even register consciously but just add to the whole sense of warmth and charm as well as reflecting light downwards. Think about using the plastic version though - they look very good and you won't have any problem at all with corrosion. Aluminum "tins" won't rust but are much more expensive. If you have leftovers that you want to use up and you're working with steel, make sure to backprime them with a rust inhibitor.

If it wasn't so sad and ironic the situation would be laughable. If disabled people fell on tile all the time, there would be no tile in rehabs. There is non slip ceramic, porcelain, and vinyl tiles to select from which are more safe and sanitary than concrete stain. If you want an easy to clean surface with no grout lines, then there is an Armstrong tile called. Safety Zone. Sand the surface to remove whatever was installed and install this over top. Easy Peasy Damp Mop to clean. https://www.armstrongflooring.com/commercial/en-us/products/srf/safety-zone.html https://www.armstrongflooring.com/commercial/en-us/products/srf.html

You mean waterproofing PRIOR to installation of tile as well as during/after install? Yes, you have to build and waterproof the shower before a single tile is installed. Tile and grout are not waterproof, they are just the part that you see. Not a pro here, but to educate myself (after a shower disaster, and in order to make a better hiring decision when searching for new pro to fix bathroom), I read the shower chapters of the TCNA handbook, read waterproofing threads on this forum and the John Bridge forum, and checked out DIY books from the library. I wasn't intending to DIY, but it was very helpful to learn what building a waterproof shower really requires. There's a lot of bad info out there, so don't go digging around in YouTube videos, with one exception - I watched Sal DiBlasi's videos. I think he has another site with more info on it, but I haven't gone on there lately. Doing some research before talking to contractors will help you make a better hiring decision. You can order a downloadable version of the handbook for less than $40: https://www.tcnatile.com/products-and-services/publications/218-english-publications/188-handbook.html You can search for Sal's videos online: Sal DiBlasi, Elite-tile Company, in the Boston North Shore area. After you educate yourself, start interviewing contractors (not sure if you want a GC or if you are going to directly interview tile professionals). Ask this question: "How do you build a shower?" For your entertainment here is a story that illustates how hard it can be to find an excellent tile pro, and how vulnerable people are to GCs' hiring decisions regarding subs. When you do find an experienced and qualified tile pro, understand that on average a correctly built and waterproofed shower will be several thousands of dollars. Don't skimp on this by hiring an unqualified person. The chances of a leaky shower is far too great a risk. https://www.gardenweb.com/discussions/5725013/what-to-do-when-a-project-goes-completely-south#n=28 In my case, I hired a very expensive GC, who then hired a very cheap and unqualified tile installer. If you hire a GC, you need to find a way to ensure that he/she doesn't cheap out on the tile pro to increase their profit. I haven't found a way to do that yet. The only 2 projects where I had to hire a GC, they did this and it caused big problems. So, if you hire a GC, have an honest talk with them about who they are going to hire to build your shower. The tile pro is the most important sub that will be involved in your bathroom reno. The tile pro is the one who is in charge of building the whole shower. Sometimes a framer will frame the shower, but the tile po is ultimately responsible for the whole thing. Don't let a GC just tell you the person is qualified; you need to see that tile pro's prior work and ask them the question "How do you build a shower?" and here his answer for yourself.

Concrete needs 'expansion joints'. Which means a massive slab on the wall is still going to have joints. On the floor the same issue will occur. Finished concrete surfaces are a lifestyle finish not a 'cheaper than tile' finish. Finishing concrete is expensive and it must be worked by a finishing concrete expert (more of an artist than a handy man). Concrete is porous. It is MORE POROUS than marble. I STAINS easier than marble. It ETCHES more than marble. Concrete as a 'finish' is considered a 'living finish'. It is always changing. It is always staining/etching. It is a whole lot of excitement to live with! If you love a surprise every single time you step into the shower or every time you make dinner or every time you step on the floor in bare feet then concrete is the finish for you. A HIGH END polished FINISH on concrete can be $7-$25/sf. The only thing that slows down the staining and etching (floors) is epoxy ($5/sf). A concrete counter top is stunning...and annoying...and surprising...It will show little spider cracks (as will all of the concrete surfaces). The finish on the counter top must be 'food grade' which makes it less resistant to things like water, orange juice, olive oil, red wine, white wine, etc. And you still need a better level concrete finisher. They can be hard to find. Ask yourself how much you want the imperfection of a living concrete surface? Can you handle the changes that you will notice on a weekly basis (if not daily...it depends on how much of a 'Type A Personality'.