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My riding mower wont start...can you help?

8 years ago

I have a Murray 46568X6A and we were mowing the lawn one day and ran out of gas. We put gas in and turned the key and the motor was turning but wouldnt start. I had someone come look at it yesterday and they said to change the plug. I did that and it didnt help. There is gas in it. I dropped the bowl down and there is gas getting into that. Battery is showing 12 volts. I checked the seat switch with multimeter on Ohms and nothing but when I push the plunger down it beeps showing good. Same thing with the switch on the right hand side which I believe is the brake pedal switch. One side beeps with the plunger not depressed then when you move to the other side no beep until you press the plunger in. I checked voltage from the battery to the solenoid (3 poles) with a test light and it lights up on one side (going to the starter) with the key not cranking and nothing on the other side. Then when I crank the key still nothing on the 2nd side and light goes out on the starter side of the solenoid. What should I check next or does that mean the solenoid is bad? Also checked the 15 fuse and its good. I am small engine dumb and last time I took my push mower into a shop it was over $100 for a tune up and I cant afford anything like that again.

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Comments (11)

mdstamen
8 years ago
I did not see if you checked it for spark?
danwebracing
Original Author
8 years ago
I checked for spark and there was nothing BUT I dont know if there is another switch that I am missing that would cause it to not spark as I am assuming if one switch isnt working properly then it would disable to spark or is that not correct? This is the first rider we have owned so now quite sure how everything works together. Or should it spark regardless of the switches operating correctly?
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It is possible that you have 2 different issues. It is hard to tell from your description if you are saying that the wind down noise is the noise of the starter running and if it is, is it running w/o the key switch activated. Solenoids are the most likely cause for allowing the starter to run on- but not the only one. They are not typically a fuse blower- but could be. On a 4 post solenoid one of the 2 small wires supplies a ground and the other 12 volts when the key switch is activated. If I am assuming something I shouldn't, please elaborate on what you believe the noise is.
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A couple of observations. I don't get your model # to come up in Briggs look up, and the Murray # doesn't seem to be of any help either. It would be helpful to post the model and type # to know for sure. If the cylinder head looks as the one in the picture, then no problem. The Hammerwall link is showing a different model #. If this is an aftermarket fuel cap, they sometimes like to put the part # sticker over the vent hole in the cap- like MTD likes to do. I don't see any indication that the cooling system has been cleaned. If this is a significant oil burner, bad carbon build up in the combustion chamber doesn't help. With all this being said, Bill's probably right with the starter being tired, but it would be good to know the answers to these questions.
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"Also regarding them not selling replacement bushings, does that mean I'd just have to buy a whole new starter?" You didn't answer whether the "different starter" they put on was a new one or a used one. The end/mounting plate can be bought with the bushing in it and just replace that. As said above, while the bushings are "not replaceable", you can usually get one that is the right ID at a good hardware store, farm supply store and probably auto parts store. All that I have found have an OD that is too large and are too long. No problem for me since I have a metal turning lathe and other machine tools making replacement fairly simple. I am not sure I would recommend you undertake it. I have been able to tell about the bushing by taking hold of the end of the starter shaft and pulling side to side. Might want to ask esemilio above how he did it but I wouldn't jump into that until you know that is the problem. "putting 2 - 3 drops of oil where the starter shaft exits the end/mounting plate may help." and that does help, does that mean the bushings are wearing out and I will have to replace the starter anyhow?" No, that means the starter bushing was dry making the starter harder to turn over under load. The loose bushing is another mater. As I said, IF the engine will start, try the SeaFoam before getting involved in repairing/replacing anything. And you didn't answer about whether the engine had valve repair before the problem started. Walt Conner
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Starter solenoid has 2 big cables, one from battery positive post, the other to starter. Did your OEM starter solenoid have 2 smaller terminals? or just 1 small terminal? What about the replacement solenoid you bought? 1 or 2 small terminals?
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mdstamen
8 years ago
Riders usually have 2 safety circuits. One is to not allow it to turn over. The second is to kill the spark. Some things that kill the spark are the seat switch reverse switch while blade is on.
I see you know how to use a meter.
What you need to do is remove the stop wire going to the engine. Now see if you have spark. If you do then you need to use your meter to check the wiring. Remember it should not go to ground.
mdstamen
8 years ago
if you go to:
http://www.partstree.com/parts/murray/mowers-lawn-garden-tractor/46568x6a-murray-ultra-46-lawn-tractor-1998/electrical-system/

You will see the diagram

Looks like the yellow is the spark stop circuit.
exmar zone 7, SE Ohio
8 years ago
It's fairly common to run out of gas while mowing, then the mower won't start. Likely culprit is the electric PTO (blade) switch is still engaged.

Ev
danwebracing
Original Author
8 years ago
how do I check the pto or disengage it? where is it?
exmar zone 7, SE Ohio
8 years ago
Do you have a knob that you pull out to engage the mower? that's the electric PTO, push it in. If you have a manual lever which mechanically engages the mower, then you don't have an electric PTO so disregard my comment.
danwebracing
Original Author
8 years ago
to start it I push in clutch and turn key then push pedal to move. then I have a lever on right side above throttle pedal I push fwd to make it start cutting. would a loose belt stop mower from running?
danwebracing
Original Author
8 years ago
OK i found the third switch and that one tested good as far as one side beeps showing continuity when the button is not pressed and the other side beeps when it is pressed.
tomplum
8 years ago
As you are checking the PTO and clutch switch- be sure that they are actually being activated -IE a rod pushing down the plunger.
danwebracing
Original Author
8 years ago
yes they seem to be getting pushed in perfectly

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