Range more shallow than countertop
marcosmcqueen
8 years ago
We've got some odd walls that are forcing me to shim my cabinets out from the wall by 2.25". Not a big deal as we'll make the countertops 2.25" deeper to cover the gap. Who doesn't want deeper countertops?
The problem arises with the new gas range (we're replacing the current electric range). Our countertops will be somewhere between 26 and 27 inches deep. The 30" wide range is 24" deep.
I'm trying to figure out what to do to minimize the awkwardness of this. I've considered a few options:
Option #1- Place the range all the way against the rear wall and have the countertop installers cut back the corners at an angle.
Option #2- Bring the range forward to the edge of the countertop and build a 3" deep false wall behind the range.
Option #3- Bring the range forward and leave a 2"-3" gap between the rear of the range and the wall/backsplash.
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Is there a less than countertop depth wall oven?
Comments (4)Fagor is Spanish not Latin BTW. Check the installation specs to verify that shallow ovens don't require airspace behind them - some I've seen specify 24"d cabinets even though the oven is only about 21" deep....See Morecounter top material for small counter
Comments (12)Funny that you guys started to discuss this just when I am about to start this same project myself. Here are my findings. First off, if you plan of putting a counter on top of the new 3.8 cu ft FL, good luck, and have your pocket book ready. You see, the deepest "standard" counters are those for kitchens, at 25 1/8". Assuming that one leaves around 5" of clearance behind those newer FL machines for vents, air circulation, heat, etc, then you are looking at about 30"-35" of depth, depending on how flush you want the counter to come to the front of the machine. Having said that, there are 3 prices for laminate counters in the stores (like Home Depot). The counters you see in the store in stock are the cheapest, and will cost around $10 li ft. If you need to pick a finish that matches say the sink counter top in your bathroom where the machines are also located, then that is considered a custom order, even if it is a standard depth. This will easily double the price to $20 li ft. Now if you want to order a non-standard depth so that it goes from the back of the wall to the front of your new FL, then you are looking at $35-$50 li ft, depending on type of finish like rounded vs sqaure front edge, back ledge or no ledge, etc... Keep this in mind when shopping for a counter top. I would like my counter to cover the machines completely, so I might have to bite the bullet and order the more expensive counter top.... Again, I am talking about a laminate counter top, no fancy materials here.... I am from Canada, and here is what the local Home Depot quoted me in Canadian dollars for the 3 options.. 1) In-Store counter (limited finishes) 25 1/8" (standard depth) X 6 feet = $68 CAD Custom order counter (you choose the finish) 25 1/8" (standard depth) X 6 feet = $132 - $150 CAD 30 Csutom order counter (you choose the finish) 30-35" (non standard depth) X 6 feet = $222 CAD I believe the last option of non-standard depth only allows for a square front edge finish. If you want a rounder edge in front, like that found on your kitchen counter, the price jumps to $500 CAD, since the guy said that they have to charge for a full 4X8 sheet, and then cut the custom size from there, in order to get the rounded front edge... One other option you can do, which my brother did very nicely is lay down 2 sheets of plywood (for extra thickness), and tile the top and sides, looks really nice, but is a lot more work......See MoreReplace range with cooktop without new counter top?
Comments (20)Joseph Corlett, the existing edge profile is eased. Is it more difficult to seam to finished edges? Will there be cutting/grinding required in the house? I imagined that they would get the two pieces cut to size and attach them, maybe with some supports underneath. Is it more complicated than that? Should I just get a new countertop instead of considering this patch job? damiarain, thank you for all the links of the drawer units under induction cooktop. I am aware that there are clearance concerns for the top drawer. However, all photos there also show new countertops under the cooktops, which brings me back to the original question of how required a new countertop is for a cooktop install. This discussion is telling me that this new cooktop installation is more complicated that I originally imagined. I thought replacing 30" range with 30" cooktop would pretty standard. I need to consider leaving the range in place until I get enough money to get a new cooktop, drawer units AND a countertop....See MoreAre there any counter depth fridges that are wider than standard 36"?
Comments (19)"...36" between cabinets and island I believe..." I hope you're not saying it's 36" between the cabinets on the perimeter and the cabinets in the island. If so, you don't have a 36-inch aisle, you have a 33-inch aisle. What I hope you mean is that it's 36" between the items that stick out the farthest into the aisle on each side (other than the refrigerator, as you've already admitted you forgot about). Note that even that's 6" narrower than the minimum recommendation of 42" for a one-person (and always a one-person) work aisle (48" for two or more people working at the same time) -- assuming you're talking about a work aisle. The actual depth of a standard perimeter is 25.5" -- that includes the cabinet boxes (24" deep), doors/drawer fronts (1" deep), and counter overhangs (1.5" deep). The counter overhangs 1.5", so it covers the doors/drawer fronts. 24" + 1.5" = 25.5" The same counter overhang is on the non-seating sides of the island. Seating overhang should be a minimum of 15" of clear leg/knee space. If there are no workspaces or appliances behind the seats, there should be at least 44" behind the seats if you have a 15-inch seating overhang, more if the overhang is less than 15". If there are appliances or workspaces, then the aisle behind the seats should be 48" to 54", depending on how much thru-traffic there is....See More
marcosmcqueen
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agomarcosmcqueen
8 years ago
mama goose_gw zn6OH
8 years agoHere is a pic of mine, which might help. The frame I built butts up to the back of the control panel, between it and the wall, and sits just a tiny bit lower, to keep the items sitting on it from sliding forward.
marcosmcqueen thanked mama goose_gw zn6OHmarcosmcqueen
8 years ago
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