Hardwood floor refinishing questions.
9 years ago
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- 9 years ago
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Refinishing Red Oak Hardwood (questions to ask professional)
Comments (0)We are having a professional come and give us a quote tomorrow to refinish our existing red oak floors, add (extend) the red oak into the living room and possibly install it on the stairs. We have two dogs (thick nails) and get traffic from the deck to the breakfast area (Colorado snow). What questions should we be asking? We want it stained a bit darker and want a very good, strong finish for the top coat (he mentioned something about commercial grade to use when I initially called him). Thanks....See MoreRefinishing Hardwood Flooring Vs. New Engineered Wood Flooring
Comments (3)Even without knowing the kind of wood or condition, I can't imagine replacing wood flooring in an 1890 home. In my opinion, the value is in the original material. If the floor is in good condition, it may not need sanding at all; a screening and recoat might be all that's necessary and the patina would be retained. There are many threads on this topic, try searching the Old House forum. I live in a converted schoolhouse built in 1890. The fir floors had been covered with layers of linoleum, glue, paint ... they were a mess.. but looked awesome after refinishing. That was years ago and I'm planning to have them screened soon (aka buff and recoat.) What kind of wood is it? Do you have photos?...See MoreQuestion about refinishing painted hardwood floors
Comments (13)When I hear someone recount something that makes no sense, I generally figure that someone misspoke or didn't hear correctly. Whenever I see huge variations (3x) in price quotes, I generally figure someone made a mistake. Maybe the third quote will clear things up. Whether wood can be refinished depends on the type of floor and condition. Since you're selling, and already having work done in the house, I'd be inclined to have all the floors redone unless the finisher can match it 90%. If there's any doubt, do it all. This assumes you know what prospective buyers are going to want. I usually recommend the opposite when people are living in the house. Colors and preferences here are all over the place. Usually it seems foolish to upend residents and spend their money when there's a good likelihood the next person won't like their choice, but your situation sounds different since you're already having work done. The only warnings I have about sanding painted floors are that you may find some cosmetic damage and you may end up with paint residual in some cracks....See MoreQuestions after Hardwood floor refinish
Comments (29)I'm worried about the 'pock mark' in your second photo. A fully cured, fully ADHERED finish WILL NOT do that. You can see the centre of the pock is gone and the WHITE COLOURING around the edge of the mark = adhesion failure. I'm HIGHLY suspicious this floor is going to have more and more issues. A dropped toy should dent the WOOD but leave the finish INTACT. This is the OPPOSITE. The wood is intact (not a heavy object) but the FINISH has FAILED. I would assume the worst. If one spot fails, it is most likely it will ALL FAIL. As for the white scratches, that can be normal for a fresh finish. Even after a full 30+ day cure they can be a little delicate. I would recommend bringing in an NWFA Certified inspector (www.nwfa.org) and pay them for an inspection. They will perform an adhesion test to see how well that oil based poly is grabbing the Minwax stain. While you are waiting for the NWFA Inspector to call you back, I would reach out to Masterline (as G&S suggested a few weeks ago) to find out if Minwax is an acceptable stain underneath their product. And if so, how much time they want to see from 'stain' to first coat of finish. Minwax is KNOWN for taking many many hours (some required 24-72 hours) before the first coat of finish can be applied....See MoreRelated Professionals
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