justaguy, Some have tiny sprouts but they'll never produce in time. Our morning temps are already down around 33-34F -- just a skitch above freezing. Daytime temps warm to about 65F. The plants don't seem to mind those 30 degree temperature swings. The number of days to bearing is genetic and the seed packs are 'very optimistic'. I started mine 4/13 (indoors) and then added a 2 more plantings. They probably need more like 9 mo. So if you want a spring crop, plant some now under grow lights.

Never heard that one macky. I think they all prefer pretty fertile soil. I think it's all about a timing thing. I've had differently timed successions of broccoli and cauli in the same plot turn out different sized heads. I can plant them from Aug-Feb, but I notice the closer I get to the winter solstice to planting, the smaller the head. Which makes sense because the amount of sunlight. I also notice that my winter harvests(when planted in late/summer/early fall) are a bit better than my early summer summer harvests. With my Brussels, I get big plants and I get sprouts. They're just always loose leaf sprouts. I read last year that July is supposed to be optimum for them here, so I'll give it one more shot I don't know how that's supposed to work out though -- our summers don't really get going until late july. Kevin

The sharp spray of water is a very effective and does not require lugging a hose around, any pump sprayer will produce that sharp water spray. Was a good, reliable soil test done on the soil before planting? Were any of these simple soil tests done with that soil? Structure. From that soil sample put enough of the rest to make a 4 inch level in a clear 1 quart jar, with a tight fitting lid. Fill that jar with water and replace the lid, tightly. Shake the jar vigorously and then let it stand for 24 hours. Your soil will settle out according to soil particle size and weight. A good loam will have about 1-3/4 inch (about 45%) of sand on the bottom. about 1 inch (about 25%) of silt next, about 1 inch (25%) of clay above that, and about 1/4 inch (about 5%) of organic matter on the top. 2) Drainage. Dig a hole 1 foot square and 1 foot deep and fill that with water. After that water drains away refill the hole with more water and time how long it takes that to drain away. Anything less than 2 hours and your soil drains too quickly and needs more organic matter to slow that drainage down. Anything over 6 hours and the soil drains too slowly and needs lots of organic matter to speed it up. 3) Tilth. Take a handful of your slightly damp soil and squeeze it tightly. When the pressure is released the soil should hold together in that clump, but when poked with a finger that clump should fall apart. 4) Smell. What does your soil smell like? A pleasant, rich earthy odor? Putrid, offensive, repugnant odor? The more organic matter in your soil the more active the soil bacteria will be and the nicer you soil will smell. 5) Life. How many earthworms per shovel full were there? 5 or more indicates a pretty healthy soil. Fewer than 5, according to the Natural Resources Conservation Service, indicates a soil that is not healthy. Is your soil clay, sand, loam, gravel? What is the level of organic matter in that soil, the humus level?

There's a ton of info on about brussels here on the vegetable forum. Some people can pull them off and some can't. Too much nitrogen is the common cause for fluffy sprouts, but the wrong variety for you area could be part of it too. My main issue is that aphids just love them and came close to destroying the patch this year.