Shrubs for privacy along a fence

8 years ago

I'm in Canadian zone 4b (which is the equivalent to USA 5), and I have an 80'+ fence line that I need to fill in with some shrubs to increase my privacy... The spot receives plenty of sun. It's a fairly moist spot (but not wet) and the soils drain fairly well... Currently there are about 6 or 7 Arrowwood viburnum ("Blue Muffins") along this fence that are quite mature (about 7 x 7). There are 8 to 9' gaps b/w each shrub though, and I am considering something like a silver variegated dogwood or perhaps something like Coppertina or Diabolo nine bark... these shrubs seem to reach about 7 to 8' wide and tall so that would fill in the gaps... and are tough..

I was also thinking about some type of evergreen, cedar, or even a spruce or fir (although I don't want something that exceeds 20' along that fence due to the shade it would create)... seems like a simple, low maintenance shrub would work best, even if it only gives me 6 or 7 months of privacy.

Thoughts? Any other recommendations?

Thanks!

Featured Answer

NHBabs z4b-5a NH

8 years ago

Thanks for the kind comments, Marie! Here are a few photos, splaker. I hope that this helps you with your project. Before I started this project in fall 2009, I think, I tried to web search mixed shrub borders and didn't find much that inspired me. But I knew I had seen in person similar things planted various places, so I had some ideas in mind and then just winged it.

My goals were to block or distract from some of the sightlines to a work area from the main entrance drive. We had just cleared a wooded area to have more sun, so I was starting from a blank slate. I knew I wanted a mix of evergreens (for winter interest) and deciduous shrubs, vines and perennials for colorful and contrasting foliage and flowers. I know I have more space than the typical suburban yard, but something similar to this could be done on a scaled down basis.

June of 2010 after planting fall 2009. 3 kinds of evergreens (2 or 3 of each randomly spread down the bed length - Thuja 'Sunkist', Thuja 'Techny' and a slower growing cultivar of blue spruce that I will probably eventually have to remove due to large size or budworm damage), a few small pagoda dogwoods, a couple of Hydrangea paniculata (Quickfire and Pinky Winky), a Coppertina Ninebark, two Spicebush (Lindera benzoin), a few rhodies, some winterberry holly, and a few perennials. Before planting, I laid down a bunch of composted manure. After planting the various shrubs, I mulched heavily for moisture and weed control, first putting down cardboard and then about 6" of loose mulch that packed down to 4" or so. Perennials were planted around the edges after the main shrubs were in by cutting through the cardboard. I tried to leave enough room between the evergreens and shrubs to allow them to grow to just grow together overtime, but not be super crowded, so it was rather sparse the first year or two. I didn't do formal plans, but knew the ballpark size of the mature shrubs and the bed size, and once I bought the plants, I plopped them down in the bed and moved them around until I liked the layout, and then got out the shovel. I didn't pick out specific varieties ahead of time, but went around to local nurseries during fall sales knowing that I wanted rhodies, varied colored medium evergreens, etc. and chose from what they had available (that met my needs) to keep expenses down.

Looking east from the middle

Looking NE from the SW side (June 2010)

In December of 2010 after one full growing season looking west from the dirt pile just visible on the right (east) side of the photo above

After 4 growing seasons with some added perennials but not much in the way of added shrubs it is fairly full. Late October 2013

June 2014 looking East along the front of the bed.

Looking down the back side as fall color is just beginning to develop - no perennials since this is the work area side.

Here's a photo in taken late November 2014 that was from a similar angle to the second photo at the top.

There have been a few plants over the years that haven't worked out due mostly to the voles that are a curse of my gardening existence, but for the most part I am quite happy with the bed. It's at my husband's shop so I don't get down to it as regularly as I might wish, but it doesn't need more than a few of hours of weeding per season and some tidying up and cutting back in the fall as long as I keep the mulch in good shape. I add more mulch every couple of years where there is space between plants. I've also added edging, a combination of the rolled edge black plastic edging from a big box store and recycled bricks lining the inside edge of the plastic (visible 2 and 3 photos up) to run the lawn mower wheels on so no edge whacking needed.

Also, a couple of comments on some plants mentioned in previous comments.

I have 3 Viburnum plicatums, one of which is about as old as the bed above and might be mariesiii but might be another selection. They bloom well every year (we got to -22 last winter and near that most winters) so you should be OK unless you get a whole lot colder than that. They all have great fall color.

Burning bushes can seed around to wild areas, so I wouldn't recommend them for that reason, but they are also boring green blobs most of the year. Blueberries are a good replacement if you have acid soil with spring flowers, summer berries for you or the birds, and nice red to maroon autumn color.

I ripped out my one Viburnum 'Blue Muffin' because it didn't bloom well, had no fall color in my garden, and was infested with Viburnum beetle.

There are quite a number of medium sized/slower growing Thuja cultivars that won't get giant (as well as other conifers that you could check out on the conifer forum.) I found 3 Thuja types in good sizes in local nurseries in my quite rural area, so you have a good chance of finding some. If you have a lot of deer they may not be a good choice unless you want to spray them in winter. We have deer, but are rural enough that they don't bother the gardens for the most part.

I really like the various variegated shrub dogwoods and the size of the larger ones will work well for you. Coppertina is has been a great shrub for me, but if they are prone to mildew in your area, there are others that are less mildew prone in tests.

I'd love to hear how your project works out!

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Comments (22)

ken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5
8 years ago
i am visual ... any chance at a pic???

i wasnt aware that zones changed at the canadian border ... and being from metro detroit.. i knew a lot of CA gardeners ...

ken
splaker
Original Author
8 years ago
I thought they did... will send you a pic momentarily
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splaker
Original Author
8 years ago
[IMG]http://i1197.photobucket.com/albums/aa422/Splaker/IMAG1056_zpsdsg1rcz6.jpg[/IMG]
splaker
Original Author
8 years ago
[IMG]http://i1197.photobucket.com/albums/aa422/Splaker/IMAG1057_zps0oydm31y.jpg[/IMG]
splaker
Original Author
8 years ago
[IMG]http://i1197.photobucket.com/albums/aa422/Splaker/IMAG1055_zps439c0gd2.jpg[/IMG]
splaker
Original Author
8 years ago
does that help?
ken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5
8 years ago
yes ....

if you load to PB from your hard drive.. then you could just load them here without PB ...

i think you were standing on your deck ... one tree.. 15 feet out from the deck.. could block the whole problem.. in many years shorter.. than dealing out at that fence line

ken
splaker
Original Author
8 years ago
last modified: 8 years ago
but what you don't see is a pool... our pool is on the other side (opposite of the fence line... and when I am standing midway point of my pool, I can see into 3 yards! and they can see me! My wife and I love privacy... the neighbours have an annoying and creepy 25 year old overgrown teenager who we'd rather screen out.
splaker
Original Author
8 years ago
maybe some burning bushes would work too... but I like the idea of the coppertina or wine ninebark since they offer some contrast to the green viburnum..

btw, the viburnumns are being eaten voraciously by those beetle larvae thingies
Nessdizzle Formally 6a, now 9b Central Florida
8 years ago
How bout the thuja green giant evergreens?? Then to add color you could plant in front of them with flowers, colored bushes, etc? The green giants grow VERY big VERY fast!!
splaker
Original Author
8 years ago
how big? and do you mean to place them b/w the arrowwoods? Or rip them out and put all green giants?
Marie Tulin
8 years ago
Rethink your monoculture approach and diversify your plantings. If you go to the New England forum and look at "NHbabs'" posts you'll
see pictures of her beautiful mixed shrub and tree borders. They may be a
bigger scale than you want, but they could certainly be translated for
your use.The problem you are having with the beetles
would be far less noticable if you had a border of mixed woodies. That
way when one plant has a problem and you need to remove it, there's just
one hole in the border which can be easily filled.

If good replacements are too wide, you might consider removing one or more of the blue muffins and replacing it with a less vunerable plant.

In case you still want viburnums , Dirr has a list of viburnums that are beetle resistant.
Check the habit of those ninebarks before you buy. Some are quite fountain shaped and might have a wider spread than you want. Viburnum tomentosum plicatum is beautiful and dense and doesn't get "the beetle" in my yard. There several cultivars smaller than the well known "Mariessi"

I have one "green giant". I'm not great with eyeballing measurements, but after 5 years in the ground I'd say it is a heck of lot wider than 6 feet and isn't showing signs of slowing down yet.

Check out MOBOT for good plant evaluations. The Chicago Botanic Garden does stellar plant evaluations.

At the library check out Michael Dirr's Hardy Trees and Shrubs. You sound like you're into gardening for the long run and any one of his books would serve you well for a lifetime
of gardening. They are well written and meaty enough to get you through some long winters too.

You could have a lot of fun with this project experimenting with new plants.
splaker
Original Author
8 years ago
Mrtulin.. great info. I agree and love the idea of a mixed border/row... it is far more pleasing to the eye and stimulating. I will check those sources
splaker
Original Author
8 years ago
just looked into the Mariessi... says zone 6A. This is what I meant when i said our zones seem to differ... it won't be reliably hardy in my zone then... we got down below -20 F last winter on several occasions...
splaker
Original Author
8 years ago
Had a hard time find mixed border pictures from NHbabs posts... Will try to search mixed shrub/tree boarders on google
splaker
Original Author
8 years ago
NHBabs, amazing pics.. you've done some great work on your garden. Since this is a long-term solution/fix, I am going to go about this carefully... I will either PM you or post questions here as I go along. At the moment, I will put this off. I think I am aiming for the later half of August, which is when our perennial shrub/flowers sales are in full force. We've spent quite a bit of money this spring since we've moved in so budget is a bit tight right now. I am looking at amending over 80' so it's a fair bit of space for us.

I really do like what you've done and would apply a similar strategy myself. The mixed border is much more stimulating to the eye.

Thank you and I'll be in touch soon...
NHBabs z4b-5a NH
8 years ago
We had the clearing done in spring, and I spent the summer reading and visiting nurseries to see what was available and prepping the area for planting before putting in plants in fall. So taking your time, saving up, and working on improving the soil over the summer is a good idea. Check out whether your community has free compost available, and if so, pick up a bunch. Or check out places like freecycle or Craig's list to see if there is free or cheap manure available or start your own compost pile. You can also start sheet composting (AKA lasagna gardening) with any organic matter available on the site where you will be planting.

I only briefly mentioned them above, but I can't say enough good things about the full-sized Hydrangea paniculata cultivars like Limelight, Quickfire, Vanilla Strawberry, Pinky Winky, Tardiva, etc. They boom for a long time (at least two months) and I like to leave the dried flower heads on for winter interest and to make them appear denser in winter and then prune them off in spring. From tiny starts, just rooted cuttings, they have grown to over my head in 4 years. It is fine in full sun to part shade and is plenty hardy enough for you. If you know someone with one, you can start your own from cuttings as they are one of the easier plants to root. My favorite is Quickfire, shown in its fall color in the second photo from the bottom. In my garden it starts blooming a full month ahead of the other types, the first week of July, with white flowers that gradually turn to that luscious cherry pink for the fall. I also like the loose more rounded shape of the flower heads vs the denser more cone-shaped heads of many of the others.
splaker
Original Author
8 years ago
Which blue spruce is that? I want to plant one along the fence line but I'd rather select a slower growing cultivar.. is there a blue spruce that doesn't grow too large (at least not within the first 20 to 30 years) - or am I asking too much?!
splaker
Original Author
8 years ago
last modified: 8 years ago
I love the Korean Fir (as it doesn't grow very large) but VERY expensive here.. $300++ for just a 6'
Marie Tulin
8 years ago
You want a "conventional" cone shaped one? Montgomery Blue grows more horizontally and very slowly up. Beautiful blue. I don't think Fat Albert gets so tall), but it is wide. Beautiful blue and form is great. I have a tall narrow one but darned if I can remember the name. Grows in some shade!
NHBabs z4b-5a NH
8 years ago
Mine is Fat Albert, but as Marie said, it is wide. It will need to be removed eventually so as to not shade the solar panels in the background, but I should have a bunch more years before needing to remove it.

Shrubs for privacy along a fence

NHBabs z4b-5a NH

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ken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5

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