few questions on Pachira (money tree) and ficus elastica
volcoff
8 years ago
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Comments (12)
greenman28 NorCal 7b/8a
8 years agoRelated Discussions
Ficus elastica (rubber tree): best timing for prune and repot
Comments (14)Al: Oh, I do indeed have more trees! I am a bit overwhelmed by the number of pots both in and outside of my home. I am an incurable collector. I could ask you questions about them all day. . . Back in March, you answered several of my questions about making the gritty mix when I was just embarking upon that adventure. I put a few plants that were on death's doorstep in the mix then. A few didn't make it (a draceana among them), a few are thriving (the aloe and spider plant love the mix!), most have held steady and are starting to show signs of growth (shefflera, swiss cheese philodendron). So I do have a sense of the patience required when repotting before the optimal time. I'm looking forward to seeing the results of undertaking things at the right time. It's been nice to practice with the mix, learn about it's water retention, and begin to tweak it for my needs before I moved my most-beloveds into it. This week I chopped an enormous floppy jade back to it's thick base and put it in the mix. Looking forward to that development. Also a favorite cactus whose name I don't know; it's about four feet tall, main stalk about 3-4" diameter with five stalks coming off the main, so maneuvering it was an exciting project. I was nervous about that one, but glad I did it when I got in there and saw how cemented the roots were in the hardest soil I've ever dealt with. I have a ficus lyrata (fiddle fig) that also reaches the ceiling, so I'm using your advice to give it a new shape. I'm planning on following roughly the same timing for it as for the elastica. I have a very big Bloodgood maple in a pot that's too big to move. I'd love to get that back to a manageable size, but it has just leafed out beautifully and I'm thinking that it is not the right time for that. Your comments are welcome. My other big question involves conifers. I have a very sick Wilma Goldcrest Cypress, and some kind of arborvitae (I think). I've noted that you don't recommend bare-rooting these, but cutting wedges. Is that correct? What about timing? Okay, I've rambled enough. As you can probably tell now, I'm addicted (like many folks I've read on this site). Thanks again for your help. I'm really enjoying learning about the plants, seeing their roots, and giving them conditions to thrive. blessings, brenda...See MoreFicus Elastica soil, watering, separating question
Comments (7)Niel... First, never listen to HD employees..lol.. One question to you..Why did you repot in a container, if you intended to plant outside in-ground? If you plan on planting in-ground, the sooner the better. As long as your Ficus roots are established, like any other plant/tree, it should be done immediately. To separate..Remove from pot, and carefully 'if possible,' untangle roots. Sometimes, soaking roots w/a hose is easier than pulling apart. Working with roots will have some drawbacks, but after time, they'll acclimate. IMO, Ficus Elastica isn't as fussy as F. Beji. I personally do NOT like MG Moisture Control. However, since you already purchased this stuff, the soil should have been amended with other agents..For instance, additional Perlite and extra coarse sand. (Does the pot have drainage?) I hope so. Even if you placed stones on the bottom, the water needs an escape route. Soil needs to dry between waterings. If there's no drainage holes, the soil will stay too wet for prolonged periods. If you plan on keeping your Ficus in container/s any length of time, I'd repot ASAP. Then again, when are you thinking of planting in-ground? I'm a tad confused with your plans... What type of light was your Ficus in at HD? Was it outside or in the gh? Or elsewhere? Never put a new plant in direct sun..Start off in semi-shade, then work its way into brighter light. Yes, it's true Ficus dote on sun, but not in the beginning. Too much light can be the reason your Ficus is drooping...I hope its soil isn't saturated... If it's wet, don't add more..and please don't fertilizer. Ficus don't like change, 'especially F. benji's,' so some drooping is normal. But, I have a feeling relocating isn't the only problem. Some plants go in shock when repotted, and if your Ficus doesn't like its new environment, 'soil' leaves will show distress. BTW, is you Ficus in or outside? Remove your Ficus from full sun ASAP. Place in medium light. What, to question 4? lol. No, you are not supposed to saturate then put extra water to flush..Especially every time you water..Neil, if you follow these instructions, you'll have one/three dead Ficus. It's true, after repotting the rootball should be watered thoroughly. But no additional watering/leaching is necessary, 'especially after each watering.' Leaching is done mainly to drain salts that have accumulated in soil, from chemcial fertilizers. Twice a year is sufficent. It's best done outdoors, with a hose. Run water through the soil, until it seeps out of drainage holes. It's a good idea to leach, but if done too often, there's no sense in adding fertilizer..it'd run right through. BTW, what type of fertilizer are you planning on using? Do not keep soil constantly wet..it will cause rot. Ficus are not bog plants. Hope I was of some help, Neil. Toni...See MorePachira (Money Tree) Problems
Comments (49)Hi All, We purchased a money tree a year ago. It was doing great: fast growing, green, lush, and lots of enjoyment. Then, it seemed to be outgrowing its pot, and about two months ago I re-potted it. Now, I am getting yellow leaves (about 1 leaf turns yellow per day). The new growth (top canopy) after the re-pot is also very lime green and droopy. But, there was fast growth at first. I am so worried, I love this plant. I want to care for it before the poor leaves/whatever is wrong spreads. Any advice? Based on the literature, I think the roots are holding too much water. But, I am worried to re-pot into more porous soil, since I just re-potted. I've attached a few pictures to aid in our discussion....See MoreRubber tree plant (Ficus elastica): Leaf discoloration
Comments (10)When the soil mass is very compacted and the root mass severely tangled and impacted, there is no question vitality and growth rate is being significantly affected. Most growers believe that messing with roots is taboo, and you risk killing the plant if all you do is stick a wooden skewer deep in the pot to check moisture levels. With attention to a few details, root pruning is no more dangerous than pruning the top of the plant. It SHOULD be a regular part of everyone's skillset, because w/o root work, a gradual but steady decline with notable and visible symptoms are inevitable. The only way to turn that stead decline around is by eliminating the cause, which brings us back to eliminating root congestion. This is a Ficus benjamina. It was purchased in a 3 gallon nursery can and was about 4 ft tall when acquired. The roots were horribly entangled - a solid, 3-gallon mass of roots. I chopped the trunk off so there wasn't branch or leaf on the trunk, sawed off the bottom 2/3 of the roots put it in this large bulb pan and took 3 years to get a start on the branching. The plant rebounded from the severe work like nothing had happened. The roots are a mess after 3 years in the bulb pan, so I do another root reduction. My goal not only includes the elimination of the root congestion, but also root reduction to the degree I can fit the plant into a bonsai pot, something you're obviously not concerned with. This illustrates how severely the root mass was reduced. Note the HUGE roots I cut through and simply eliminated. These roots serve no purpose in containerized plants, and their removal makes space for the fine roots that do all the work. This is the plant after a pruning and being reinstalled in a training pot. Note the huge scar near the soil on the left where a very large root was removed. That will heal in a few years. In fact, I think it's already healed. This plant is scheduled for more root work within the next few weeks, and I'll be sure to take pictures. I'm hoping to put it into a shallow bonsai pot as a lot of progress has been made in development of branches and it's ready for a pot. Many would pooh pooh what I said because 'this' is houseplants, 'that' is bonsai, but skilled bonsai practitioners know how to keep plants healthy, happy, and beautiful under extreme circumstances. Borrowing a page here & there from their book only sets you apart and above those that don't recognize expanding their skills benefits both grower and plant. I'm not pressuring you to act on what I said. My only goal is to put the information out there and relate/illustrate the advantages in case you DO want to act. The difference between a houseplant people struggle to keep healthy for more than a few ears and a bonsai that is both healthy and beautiful after hundreds of years, lies primarily in how the roots were treated. Take good care, and good luck with your new tree. ;-) Al...See MoreHorticultural Help
8 years agogreenman28 NorCal 7b/8a
8 years agoHorticultural Help
8 years agogreenman28 NorCal 7b/8a
8 years agogreenman28 NorCal 7b/8a
8 years agovolcoff
8 years agotapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
8 years agogreenman28 NorCal 7b/8a
8 years agogreenman28 NorCal 7b/8a
8 years agovolcoff
8 years ago
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Sugi_C (Las Vegas, NV)