Schematic only shows 1 fuse. Even if you "blew" the alternator, that wouldn't have anything to do with cranking. On the starter solenoid, there will be a SMALL terminal with a (probably) WHITE wire going to it. Disconnect that and jumper 12V direct to the solenoid terminal. IF the engine cranks, that means the battery/starter motor is OK. The problem would then be elsewhere. When turning the key ON, the carburetor fuel solenoid and Operator Presence Relay (OPR) should click. IF they don't, you have a problem between the battery (fuse or connection) and/or the key switch. (or totally dead battery)

Thank for the reply. I tried what you mention and all is well but the problem persists. What is happening is that the mower runs find and fast but when I go up hill it lags and slows down...the brake pedal is not springing all the way back up..if I put my foot under it and pull up it speeds up the hill no problem. I dont know what the brake, rod, spring assembly is suppose to look like to know if my connections are solid as they should be. The manual and parts diagram doesnt show how it should look assembled. I had hoped in my searching to find someone who has the same mower and can take a photo of what it should look like tightened but I cant find any. Here is what mine looks like https://plus.google.com/photos/110378076251864719976/albums/6000412351894597553/6019355709010555122?pid=6019355709010555122&oid=110378076251864719976 Because the pedal doesnt go all the way back up it seems that it could be this part of the assembly. Thank you for any help you can provide. Aaron

It would seem that it is charging to me and that the draw on the system drained your battery down. Your alternator line that has a diode in it is what converts the AC current out of the stator to DC. Either with your diode tester or ohmeter, put you leads on both ends of the diode, then reverse them. You will have continuity one way, but not the other. You could also do this test at the battery terminals: With the engine running, set your scale on DC and if the reading is more than the reading when it isn't running -it is charging. Repeat the test setting the scale on AC. Very little- less than 1 volt AC should be present. Excessive AC will indicate a failed diode. Briggs 393456 is the diode with the harness. You can continue looking for your draw by hooking your meter or test light inline as you have been doing before, but know that your rider will have some draw present when it isn't running. If you are measuring 3.6 volts, that is a bit high. Ideally nothing to about 1 volt would be acceptable for equipment that is run every couple of weeks. You could unhook connectors one at a time, wiggle the key switch etc until you find the larger draw. Or unhook a battery terminal when the machine is not in use to eliminate the draw.

granniek, Did you get this fixed? If not, try the following: 1. Click Start and type device in the search field, then select Device Manager . 2. Expand the Batteries category. 3. Under the Batteries category, right-click the Microsoft ACPI Compliant Control Method Battery listing, and select Uninstall . WARNING: Do not remove the Microsoft AC Adapter driver or any other ACPI compliant driver. 4. On the Device Manager taskbar, click Scan for hardware changes . Alternately, select Action > Scan for hardware changes . Windows will scan your computer for hardware that doesn't have drivers installed, and will install the drivers needed to manage your battery's power. The notebook should now indicate that the battery is charging.