I have a 40 year old weeping cherry tree that has some unusual behavior this year. The tree was a little late blooming (as most trees in the East this year) but there are very few leaves. There are many weeping limbs that are bare. I know it is not much to go on. I can post pics if that will help. Any idea what could be causing this issue? I am a little concerned as I had to cut a 30 year old dog wood last year. It bloomed but the leaves and flowers were the size of a dime. As I cut it down, I found an infection running down the middle of the trunk.

cherry blossom is incredibly short lived in my z5 ... a couple days at best ... it was near done blooming when you bought it.. and the transplant finished it off for this season ... in my z5 the flower buds are incredibly sensitive to frost/freeze after winter.. and prior to bloom ... your annual show will vary based on such ... all you should be worried about .... is getting it to live thru summer.. and you should be all set .... where is two face.. TO THE BATCAVE.. lol .. ken

Dieback on ornamental cherries in the PNW is very common - one of the many fungal or bacterial problems these trees are prone to here (so many in fact, that WSU published an entire pamphlet on ornamental cherry tree problems). It has nothing to do with fertilizer or lack of it - much more a factor of our weather and the inherent vulnerability of these types of trees. As to fertilizing or not.......never is a very long time and it may very well be that trees and/or shrubs in the landscape will require some sort of nutrient supplementation from time to time. They do pull nutrients from the soil and while they may have a long reach, it is not inconceivable for them to require fertilizer on occasion. But it should not be considered an annual chore but done only as needed. The appearance of the plants and/or a soil test will determine what, if anything is lacking and should be supplemented. And when the time does come to fertilize, throw away the MiracleGro and use a granulated fertilizer (synthetic or organic - your choice) sprinkled around the entire root zone. Foliar fertilizer applications are extremely inefficient and generally a waste of time and fertilizer. Nutrients are absorbed primarily by plant roots and the benefit of foliar applications is minimal. Without photos it's difficult to say exactly what your cherry is suffering from, but brown rot has been very common this season with our cool and wet late spring. FWIW, fertilizing with a high nitrogen fertilizer (like MiracleGro) is not advised as increases the incidence and potency of the fungal problem. "Use only moderate amounts of nitrogen fertilizer such as one application per year of a 5-10-10 or none if the tree is growing normally." (WSU Extension Bulletin)

being down under.. and it being fall .. and presuming its deciduous ... then i am never really concerned about how the leave look .. this time of year ... they are going to fall off.. and be gone ... in case anything was going on.. clean them all up.. so they wont be there in spring .. just in case ... i would have bought a fall plant with those leaves... ESPECIALLY if it was a fall bargain plant ... if you read that link ... you should know.. fall is one of the prime planting times ... especially on a deciduous tree ... since the various shocks.. will not really hurt leaves that are already primed to fall off ... all the better if they do.. fall is root growing time... and it will have all fall.. winter.. and early spring.. to get those roots settled in.. for the next time the leaves emerge .... NEVER water the leaves of anything.. that is ONLY ma natures job.. otherwise ... you water the roots ... leaves transpire or sweat .. lose water .. though they may take in some minimal water... its not really their job ... and if you water in the evening.. and the leaves go into humid darkness damp .. you could get in trouble with various night pathogens.. the most famous of which is powdery mildews ... since you suspect improper planting... as compared to the link ... and basically just yanked it from the pot ... at a min .. now that it has no leaves.. yank it back out... fluff out at least about half the MEDIA ... cut any severe circling roots ... and replant it in native soil.. per the link ... water it in properly .. and mulch it ... and then.. inserting finger about 2 or 3 inches ... dont water again. until the soil seems to be drying ... which.. in fall. might be weeks or a month from know ... no one can really tell you how it will all work.. in your soil ... and you are responsible for all water next year ... especially in the high heat of summer.. and any droughts ... the year after ... it should be rather self sufficient ... ken