Wow, that looks seriously bad, especially after 3 years. The large cuts might have let some disease in, that the tree is fighting now. But since your goal is to save your ancestor's tree, did you know figs are REALLY easy to start from cuttings? You can just start a new tree, which might be able to outgrow any disease. Normally you would want to do it when they are dormant, but you could still try now if you think it is dying!!! You take at least one (but I would do at 5) 6 inch branches and clip off all the leaves, leaving the little top sprout. Dip it in fungicide or a light bleach solution, then wrap the top half in a damp paper towel, leaving a few inches on the bottom free. Dip the bottom in rooting hormone, put the whole thing in an empty sports/ water bottle with the spout lid on, but open, and put the bottle somewhere warm but NOT where it gets sun (top of the water heater is perfect) Check it periodically to see that it is damp, but not wet or dry, and soon you should see little white roots coming out of the bottom and the leaves on the top starting to go. When you have nice little roots you can plant it in very light potting mix kept moist but not wet, out of the sun still, with a plastic bog lightly over the top until it is growing well. It's worth a shot for your family heirloom! Carla in Sac

Dear kdragonsoul19, If the figs were vigorous and healthy when you purchased and planted them, they should not be keeling over in less than a month unless you have performed a fatal act upon them. After you planted the figs, did you water them copiously to ensure that their roots were hydrated? And have you kept them well-watered since you planted them? If you planted them in the past couple of weeks, winter temperatures are irrelevant. It's been fairly hot for quite a while. If your soil is sand, it is going to dry out quickly. Keep those figs well-watered, and hope for the best. However, in gardening, as in gambling, you win some; and you lose some. You may be fated to lose those figs. If so, don't despair. Replace them, and plant them in full-sun, which is what they prefer. Figs are not heavy feeders, so don't burn them up with unnecessary chemical fertilizer.

That appears to me to be the leaves are loosing moisture faster then the rotos can supply it. This can be because of insufficient watering or too much watering.

Thanks, Lee. It's always nice to find out that someone finds value in the things we write. One would assume a nursery wouldn't over water their plants. In most cases, plants in nuresries WON'T be over-watered for a couple of reasons. One of those is that they are good at noticing signs that illustrate a group of plants need fopr water, or for just establishing an appropriate schedule on which to water. The second reason has to do with the fact that the plants often rest on the ground. When the pot is in direct contact with the ground, or if roots grow from the pot into the ground or through a ground cover cloth under the pots, the earth acts as a giant wick to pull excess water from the soil. If you use a soil that is capable of supporting 3-4" of perched water and you set it directly on dry ground, the perched water will disappear within minutes due to the wicking action of the earth. .... to clarify. Water when the skewer/dowel comes out free of dirt/dry looking? Yes, that's right. If you were checking daily or twice daily to get a 'feel' for how often to water, the ideal time to water would be the first time the tell comes out dry. IOW, you want to wait until just before the plant might experience drought stress before you water. With some species of ficus (like benjamina), you can clearly see or feel when the youngest leaves are just starting to lose turgidity. If you wait until then and pay attention to the interval since last watering, you can often establish an appropriate rhythm that should keep you out of trouble re over-watering. Do you have to use a new dowel every time? If you're actually using a dowel, you can cut a 4' piece in half & sharpen all 4 ends. If you're using a skewer, they're cheap, so why not use a fresh one after each moist pot you discover. Or, if you wipe the end off with a rag and wave it in the air between tests, it usually dries down enough that you can test a lot of plants with just the 4 ends from the single rod you cut in half. How much water do I flush it with? I usually suggest at least 10x the volume of the pot the plant is in; and if you err, it's better to err on the generous side and use more than 10x. How often do you do it? I use a soil that I can flush at will, and I DO flush every time I water. If you're limited to supplying small amounts of water to prevent soils from staying soggy for long periods, a thorough flush every 4-6 weeks is good. What do I use as the wick? Anything cotton? Cotton rots quickly. I prefer strands of rayon. You can buy a rayon mop head and pull it apart, or buy a man made rayon chamois and cut it in strips. Too, the nylon string ties used to tie onion or citrus bags closed very often work very well for drainage wicks (but not watering wicks). I have some of those that are 12-15 years old & still working great. Not all are created equal though, so discard those that don't work well. And do you tape it on the side of the planter out of the effluent. I meant to talk to you about the effluent. Your pot should be raised so it's above the effluent that collects in the saucer, or via other means, the effluent should have no pathway back into the soil. Reason: It doesn't make sense to flush salts from the soil only to leave a pathway right back to where they came from because the pot is sitting in the effluent. Here's how I do wicks: That covers how I do it before the planting is established. If the pot supports an established planting, I simply fold the wick over the end of a straight slot screwdriver and push it into the soil far enough that the short end is all the way into the soil. That holds it pretty securely initially and as roots grow around and into the wick, even more so. Is foliage pro 9-3-6 still your go to fertilizer? Yes. I might add a little extra K for some plants (tomato and hibiscus), but I basically use it for everything. I completely avoid any high-P fertilizers in containers. I consider a fertilizer to be high in P if the middle number (P) is equal to or larger than the first number (N). ..... it seems I will loose a bunch of leaves off the bottom. Is it ever possible to get that growth back? Yes. Once a leaf is shed, no new leaf will form in its place, but above the scar where a shed leaf was attached, there are dormant buds that can be stimulated to grow. The methods of activating these latent buds could easily fill a chapter in a book, so I won't elaborate. Back-budding will naturally occur if you can get the plant outdoors in full sun and plenty of air movement, fertilize it in what's called the luxury range, and make sure the root system is healthy and has plenty of room to run. You can artificially stimulate back-budding low on the trunk by notching or pruning the plant back hard. The hard pruning is especially effective when working with healthy plants at the peak of their food-making/photosynthesizing ability, which, where you live would be in June. Father's Day or the summer solstice are the easiest markers to remember. You mentioned the kids and learning. When I was a youngster, I went to a 1-room little red brick schoolhouse that had K-8 in the one room. Obviously, it was hard for the teacher to spend as much time with each student as they needed, so most of the time I read World Book Encyclopedia and anything I could get my hands on about animals or science. I only wish that the world of plant science would have got its hooks into me at a very young age. I hope your kids find something they love to do, no matter what it is, and have the opportunity to follow that calling. Al