Hi, I am not a granite expert - but I am a Civil Engineer. Here is my response based on the little I know about granite: 1 The granite fabricator can likely do whatever you can draw - but that does not mean it will not crack. $1000 seems reasonable to me. 2. You likely may need to seam this perpendicular to the 98-7/8" dimension. Unless you have some incredible support system the 20" overhand is likely going to crack. I have seen many homes where the cracking is visible (albeit small) where there are strong supports and the overhang is 12". With seam as noted above and loosely anchored supporting plywood atop 5" pony wall - the granite slab will rotate at seam and not hopefully not crack. The seam may need silicone caulk as it will open/close somewhat. 3. Your proposed overhang atop a 5 inch pony wall seems very unrealistic and sure to crack (if single slab). I would recommend that you work with your granite fabricator to work out support/seam/overhang issues/geometry. Further, try to get some guarantee/warranty against cracking (maybe for 2 years), as this will give you some indication on the sturdiness of the fabricator support/installation design. A great forum site for technical granite issues is stoneadvice.com, as it is frequented by granite fabricators that specialize in such matters as you may be asking; however, your lifeline in this matter is likely going to still be your granite fabricator. The above represent my 'opinions' - not expert advice. Good luck!

Your fabricators are sadly mistaken - a bullnose CAN be done with a matched leather or textured edge, There are diamond brushes that are available that can be used to apply a matching texture to the stone once it is shaped into the 180 degree return that is known to most people as a "Full Bullnose" edge detail. They can get the brushes that are made by Tenax through Braxton Bragg, GanQuartz or Defusco Supply - and are readily available. this is something I teach at my school - and if I can do it and teach it - it CAN be DONE.... hth kevin

First I will show you the layout to show you the shape of the island. Note the end on the right side (no cabinet) will be radiused. This is what our installer approved for support. 3/4 inch plywood glued to 1/2 plywood out to within 3 inches of the edge. A steel support will be in the middle of the radiused end which supports 660 lbs which is way more than the granite weighs. For extra insurance this is what we are doing/did. 1/4 inch plywood (smooth finish) at the bottom, then 3/4 inch plywood on top of it. Note we did this to provide a smooth surface underneath the island and had these materials already on hand. Ok then 2 1/2 inch wide 1/4 inch thick flat steel bars laid about 5 inches apart. 1/4 plywood in between the bars and over the rest of the island. Note no bars over the cabinet. All these glued with locktite glue, lots of clamps and heavy weights were used for several days. We used alot more than what is shown in the pics. Here of some pics of it now. Our case is a little different as on top of all of this we are laying a floor heating pad to heat the granite. That is why we went to 3 inches of the edge. Our installer/granite yard showroom has a similiar island on display that we looked at. In that case the plywood only went to 12" of the edge. We plan to add wood trim under the granite to have a nice edge to cover all this plywood. Our installer said we could also angle the edge back if that makes sense. The only cabinet in at the end by the sink and is 36" wide and 24" deep. Will be building a box behind the cabinet not only for extra support but to run electrical lines in for the heating pad and for electrial outlets that will be in the box. Hope that all makes sense! Any other questions, just post here or email me directly.

Thanks for the replies. They're helping me rethink this. I suspect, as practigal suggests, that he means some other type of material. Otherwise, yes, the overhang would be overly heavy. And thank you for the picture, javiwa. I didn't realize that the counter would extend out so far because of the application of the lamination. Not sure it appeals to me for our kitchen. In the baths, I will deal with it because I need 2 cm for the backsplashes. A point regarding cost: we got bids from three different kitchen remodeling companies. With each, I discussed the cost of 3 cm vs. 2 cm plus the additional work effort for fabrication, suggesting a trade off. In each case, I was told that the fabrication costs are the same regardless of the thickness of the granite. Doesn't quite seem right but there was no flexibility in that area Ultimately, the point might be moot depending on what is available in the granite that we choose. Thank you all for your contributions to the discussion.