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What And How Do You Feed Your Tomato Plants ?

After all that long lead time of growing from seeds, planting out comes the time to feed those babies. What is your baby FORMULA ? lol


There are so many different brands , synthetics, organics with so many different ratios of NPK, plus Ca, Mg, and all the elements from "A" to "Z" in the periodic table. Thus making a decision to pick one or two is complicated. Some recommend getting a soil test/analysis. but it is easier said than done.

OK. Lets just here your practice and views on the subject.


Sey

Comments (46)

  • goodground
    8 years ago

    I don't grow in containers and don't feed my in ground plants. I feed the soil with leaves, compost (kitchen scraps) & grass clippings.

  • jbann23
    8 years ago

    Over the years many plant foods have been utilized and finally I've slowed down to using Neptunes Harvest fish/seaweed blend in conjunction with Espoma tomato tone. The plants, big beef f1, are in large containers (half whiskey barrels) and do quite well with a largely compost soil mixture. Each plant is supported by a single strand of parachute cord suspended from a wooden frame approximately six feet taller than ground level in the containers. As the plants grow and spread out I've been using lengths of soft twine to tie the heavy branches to the cord in the center. They withstand wind quite well as there's some give to the whole affair and access to the plants is quite easy. Here's a pic taken today.


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  • Seysonn_ 8a-NC/HZ-7
    Original Author
    8 years ago
    last modified: 8 years ago

    Thanks, good ground. So your soil is rich enough for your plants. Thats good.

    Jbann, thanks for your comment. So basically you are feeding your plants organically.
    Your container and suppot system is excellent. And your plants look good at this early stage, in zone 6 RI.
    Continued success.!

    Lets hear more about the subject of fertilizing.... how do you do it ?

    Sey

  • hokiehorticulture
    8 years ago
    last modified: 8 years ago

    I use Leaf mold added annually (never in short supply) along with Espoma's Garden-Tone about two weeks before planting (have been told by an Espoma rep that the "Tones" take around 2 weeks to become available in soil) once in the ground I alternate weekly foliar feedings with Neptune's Fish Emulsion, Fox Farm's Big Bloom & Burpee's Sea Magic (Kelp). Foliar feeding is the secret to huge (500 tomatoes on 8 plants in 2013, no cherries) harvests.

  • sjetski
    8 years ago
    last modified: 8 years ago

    A few weeks before plant-out i turn the dirt over and work in a good amount of cow manure compost, Azomite mineral powder, old mulched leaves, pine bark fines and mycorrhizae products. I smooth everything off then scratch a little more pine bark fines into the first couple of inches. I have added sulphur+magnesium during this time in the past, but not every year, and i tend to go light.

    During plant-out I may shake a tiny bit more azomite minerals and witches brew (dolomitic lime + vinegar) into the bottom of the planting hole and away from the young roots. I give the transplants their first sip of water using one genuine aspirin per gallon diluted (only a couple of ounces per plant). In my experience it lessens transplant shock, leaves stay upright, and plants seem to resume growth within 2-4 days. <-- Anecdotal testimony but i've been comparing A-B results for years now, both peppers and tomatoes, the differences were extreme a couple of times.

    After the plants grow a few inches i dig the trench rows, this buries the stems another 1" or 2" further. I then cover everything with a final layer of pine bark fines to reduce splash-up.

    Later during the season i turn to other ferts like Espoma products, Texas Tomato Food, or whatever else i have on hand...

    With a few exceptions, most of what i do is not necessary but it doesn't seem to hurt the plants either. It's all just relaxing & laid back fun to me :). I'm going in for another soil test next spring so, depending on the results, i may change things around next season.

    Steve

  • Seysonn_ 8a-NC/HZ-7
    Original Author
    8 years ago

    Steve, You have some elaborate method.
    I like the pine bark fine addition. I use 5-1-1 mix in planting hole and mulch with pine bark mulch/small nuggets.
    I have never used "Azomite" And I don't know what it is, what it does !!. Is it some kind of stone dust ?

    Yeah , there are a lot of little things that we all do that may or may not really make a difference. Or we can never measure the difference, if any. But, hey , as gardeners we are in charge and in command position.

    So far a lot of organic stuff is mentioned. How about synthetic fertilizers ? What do you use and how, when, where ?

    Sey


  • sjetski
    8 years ago
    last modified: 8 years ago

    Sey, Azomite is the result of a volcanic eruption filling an ancient sea bed. It's 65% silicates but also has 70 other trace minerals. It's biggest draw for me was a combo of low price and quantity of minerals vs other brands of rock dust. The pine bark fines, manure + leaves make the dirt a more inviting place for roots and microbes, but most of it seems to disappear by next season so i keep adding more :p

    Azomite FAQ: http://www.azomite.com/faq.html
    Chemical analysis PDF: http://www.azomite.com/resources/coa.pdf

    As for synthetic products, i've been shying away from them lately, but i'm not against them either. I've had friends/neighbors offer me their old leftovers like slow release granules, generic Miracle Grow, etc. I accept and use some of it, but politely decline the generic Miracle grow since i usually already have big bags of other products to use.

    I don't mind using synthetics for disease prevention and treatment, but i also alternate through different products during the season; Daconil, copper-sulfate, Serenade etc.

    Steve

  • mister_caledon
    8 years ago
    last modified: 8 years ago

    In the past, the only post-transplant feeding I'd been doing was a weak mix of balanced liquid fertilizer in the watering can every 10-15 days. Trying to ascribe to my uncle's advice that less is more, and feeding should be minimal if the soil is well-prepped.

    In my case I turned the soil over well and tilled in dehydrated manure/compost mix, leaf compost, worm castings, and some handfuls of well-rotted wood from the far-flung corners of my yard. Afterwards I shook on a layer of Garden-Tone and a bit of lime (was told that all the compost lowers pH, lime helps raise it a bit) and let that sit on top for 2 weeks. Then a light raking on top and ready to go.

    I think the compost, castings, fertilizer and lime totaled about $25 for a 140 sq ft bed. Hopefully a modest up-front investment that will yield dividends in the form of less work now :)

  • maxjohnson
    8 years ago
    last modified: 8 years ago

    I grow my tomato in a soil mix with good leaves compost, horse manure compost, a bit of worm casting, and a lot of peat moss, since tomato like a bit of acidity. When I transplant I add a bit of gypsum around the root for calcium uptake. Then mulch all around the plants. I water once or twice a week with compost tea or just water, more often if it gets too hot. That's it. Sometimes I might fertilize it with a bit of epsom salt and fish emulsion, but maybe once a month at most.

  • Seysonn_ 8a-NC/HZ-7
    Original Author
    8 years ago

    Yeah, I realize that organic matter amendments ( leaves, compost, manures) are essential parts of a good garden soil. They are good medium to hold moisture and nutrients and at the same time to provide/facilitate good drainage. But I think you would still need to add some supplemental nutrients, whether it is organic or synthetic.
    Having said that I use synthetic fertilizers to juice up the soil nutrients. My main reason to not use ORGANIC stuff is their high cost. Also, I personally do not believe that plants have a preference when it comes the source of nutrients and I also don't believe that using synthetics are sinful.LOL.
    In the final analysis we do have free choice and I have great respect for that.

    Sey


  • wormgirl_8a_WA
    8 years ago
    last modified: 8 years ago

    I have used Neptune's Harvest for years (learned about it here at GW!) and I still love it. But, this year I am trying Texas Tomato Food and I cannot argue with the results at all.

    May 8:

    June 2:

    Sorry the angle is different, and there are more plants in the second picture, but you can look at the WOWS on the left to get an idea. In the first pic, the one on the right is the Sungold (in the red plastic bag and the largest cage). In the second pic, it's the tallest plant (in front of the window).

    By the way, these are the plants that get only the morning/eastern sun.

    I used Gardener & Bloome tomato food (dry) in the pots. I've also used Neptune's, MG and Dyna Gro on the plants this season. The MG & DG (just one time each) are just in case the plants aren't getting everything they need from the organics.

    I don't spray at all. Never have. Don't need to.

  • hokiehorticulture
    8 years ago
    last modified: 8 years ago

    I looked into Texas Tomato Food recently and am very intrigued by it. I think I will trial it next season against my current regimen. It seems to be an all-in-one type product that includes a nice lineup of some of the pricier ingredients that are usually purchased separately (like earthworm castings). So for the penny pinching gardener, this stuff may be the ticket to weaning you off of compost tea and ten year old Miracle-Gro!

  • wormgirl_8a_WA
    8 years ago
    last modified: 8 years ago

    hokie, that is absolutely true. It's actually made for hydroponic growing. It has the macros and micros, mycos, and Vitazyme which is a growth booster. I became curious enough to try it after reading this thread on Tomatoville, where the manufacturer answers questions. I hear if you email they are very responsive.

    http://www.tomatoville.com/showthread.php?t=27229&highlight=texas+tomato+food

    It is definitely a premium product and is priced accordingly. But, it saves you from having to buy everything separately. And the manufacturer really seems to know what he is doing.

    A huge bonus for me is that it doesn't smell. It doesn't leave smell on my hands, and it doesn't attract flies to the garden the way fish emulsions do.

    Check out this lettuce before and after.

    April 27. Look at the bag second from the right. That's 2 kinds of lettuce from seed. Was planted about Mar 23.

    May 23. I harvested the first head shortly thereafter. So delicious, best lettuce I've ever grown, and it actually finished ON TIME. That never happens here! Italienschier and Canasta lettuces from Sero Seed.

  • Jennie Sims
    8 years ago

    Hokie, I am using Texas Tomato Food this year also and the results are pretty amazing. I have more flowers and fruit set than I have ever had for this time of year. The flowers even like it! I am a little worried though, it's the first of June and the plants are already up to the bottom of my cage extentions. Come August I probably won't be able to get in there!


  • runwayred
    8 years ago
    last modified: 8 years ago

    I use Jobe's tomato fertilizer spikes - just insert them into the pot and you are done. I think the tomatoes are doing reasonably well, but this is only my first year planting so I don't have much to compare to.

    Jobe's 6005 18-Pack Tomato Outdoor Fertilizer Food Spikes https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001REDIZ2/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_jWHBvb0SFA3NN


  • Seysonn_ 8a-NC/HZ-7
    Original Author
    8 years ago

    As the saying goes : There is more than one way to skin a dead cat.

    Unless one does an experiment, fertilizing side by side with different fertilizer, it is not conclusive to say THIS is better. Because we are biased to what think and what we want to believe. Also not being aware of how the other thing might have worked, .. almost equally well, even better ..?
    But if you look at it from a scientific /mathematical point of view, the power should come from the amount of N,P, K in a chemically balanced soil.(pH, micro nutrients, micro herd). .
    No doubt in my mind that a fertilizer having 50% pure power should work much better than with, say 9%.
    Ok. To each his own. It is like cooking a soup. Your recipe' may taste better than mine. hehe

    Sey


  • goodground
    8 years ago

    Jennie, your plants look awesome!

  • Jennie Sims
    8 years ago

    thanks Goodground. fingers crosses they will stay healthy, Our forecast calls for rain all week.

  • Jennie Sims
    8 years ago
    last modified: 8 years ago

    Sey, you knew when you started this thread that opinions would vary greatly. I do disagree with your theory that 50% power should work much better than 9%. It is not just the fertilizer but the soil that determines a plants ability to take up nutrients. And if your soil food web is being destroyed by the heavy duty synthetic chemicals you are applying, it is going to need stronger and stronger chemicals. You like scientific studies, A good read for you would be "Teaming with Microbes" by Jeff Lowenfels with Wayne Lewis. Lindalana turned me on to some videos by Dr, Elaine Ingham a couple of years ago. I then read this book and iboth revolutionized my thinking about soil, the living microbes in that soil and fertilizers, and the role each plays in a plants ability to uptake the nutrients and thrive.

    Jennie

  • sjetski
    8 years ago
    last modified: 8 years ago

    Over the weekend a friend of mine traded me a fresh 8lb bag of Jobe's Organic Vegetable and Tomato granular. Of course i couldn't resist adding a teeny bit into my plots and containers. I liked the 2-7-4 NPK ratio, but i don't think much of the nitrogen is slow release (chicken poop) so i'm going to use it sparingly.

    Sidenote: the same friend also traded me a fresh 2CF bag of Espoma organic potting mix, which i was really happy about. I combined it with other leftover ingredients and was able to top off two 18 gallon storage bins. They are now the home for a couple of rare un-named starts i have, both a pink and a red heart (!)

    Looks like the Texas Tomato Food is really starting to catch on. It's my
    3rd season using it, but i'll be honest, i didn't notice much of a
    difference :p. Maybe because i had already been adding a lot of the
    ingredients individually (?) If i were forced to use only one soil
    amendment, it would be lots of composted/dehydrated cow manure ... by a longshot. I remember it used to be the only one i used years ago, besides some occasional sulphur & magnesium. It produced lush plants that began the season with loads of lower trusses (something i consider when measuring tomato growing success). But that was at my previous home where the soil was higher quality to begin with...

    Steve.

  • daniel_nyc
    8 years ago
    last modified: 8 years ago

    jennie, nice little "jungle" you have there.

    May I suggest you to fungicide from time to time.

    Both on AND under the leaves.

    Oh, btw, my tomatoes grew last year 15+ ft. long...

    The frame bellow is 16 ft. wide x 12 ft. high.


  • Jennie Sims
    8 years ago

    Thanks Daniel, I am using fungicide on a regular basis.



  • Seysonn_ 8a-NC/HZ-7
    Original Author
    8 years ago

    @ Jennie,
    Yes, of course, I knew that there will be different opinions. That is why it make the subject more interesting. AND I don't have a problem with the choices people make in using different brands and classes (Org, Inorg) of fertilizers.

    You referred to synthetic fertilizers as Chemicals where you wrote:

    "And if your soil food web is being destroyed by the heavy duty synthetic
    chemicals you are applying, it is going to need stronger and stronger
    chemicals."

    Everything that is made of the elements in the periodic table is one kind of chemical or other. Water is a chemical and vital, eg.
    I could be wrong, but I don't thing that applying synthetic fertilizer to soil destroys the soil web./ microbes. I still keep amending my garden soil by compost and manures. The soil web food is there too.
    One thing to remember is that the so-called synthetic fertilizers compounds like nitrates , sulfates , phosphates ... etc are naturally occuring compounds are not totally synthesized.

    Once again, I respect your and others practice and choices. Expressing my views does not violate that premise.

    Happy Gardening.
    Sey




  • wormgirl_8a_WA
    8 years ago
    last modified: 8 years ago

    Hey at least Sey bought a bottle of fish fertilizer! He may come around eventually :) I love Elaine Ingham's work. I was blown away by how much work she and her folks have done since the last time I checked.

    Sey, I would love to see an update on your plants!

    And Jennie, your plants look AMAZING! I just love your setup!

    Surprised you didn't notice more from the TTF, Steve. I grow in containers pretty much exclusively and perhaps that's why I see more of a difference.

    I swear I don't work for them LOL!

  • Seysonn_ 8a-NC/HZ-7
    Original Author
    8 years ago

    Thank you both,
    I try to have an open mind.
    And I am always open for suggestions, as long as they are mine. hehe

    This Friday, when the sun comes out and the weather warms up and the sun shines on my shoulder, I will be busy like a bumble bee , working and enjoying life . If you want to be a bee, be a bumble bee!
    I will take some picture and do a review.

    An how should I forget : Must Fungicide.

    Happy Gardening!
    Sey



  • daniel_nyc
    8 years ago

    FUNGICIDE !

    FUNGICIDE !

    FUNGICIDE !

  • sjetski
    8 years ago
    last modified: 8 years ago

    Sey, i wasn't totally upfront earlier, i am more of an organic poseur, lol. The main reason i don't use plain miracle grow is because of what i saw about 20yrs ago(?) Dad had used some on his plants early-mid season, plants were around 3-4ft high, soil already amended. They skyrocketed to around 5-6ft high before slowing down, but they were all spindly and the branches elongated. If we even breathed near them the branches would snap off, lol, peppers, tomatoes, eggplant, you name it. From then on it was only manure compost or lighter ferts, except the year he used guano; wash, rinse and repeat the results above.

    Wormgirl, you have to be right about TTF. But i do have a few more containers than normal this year, so maybe TTF will get a fair shot. But 3 years ago when i first used TTF, mid-season & in ground, the plants' color suddenly turned a shade lighter, something i hadn't seen before. There was no excess of rain or anything, i even went a little lighter with the formula. But I stuck with it, and the color stayed the same, it wasn't until i laid off in early September did they return to a deep green. I'm guessing it was a consequence of my soil, it's previous amendments, and other circumstances combined. I went with a 1/2 strength formula the 2nd year, that seemed to work better.

    Steve.

  • wormgirl_8a_WA
    8 years ago
    last modified: 8 years ago

    Steve, very interesting. Must have been something about your particular soil situation. I haven't noticed that effect (although I do notice my Anna Russian is a different shade of green than the other plants.) But I'm growing in fresh soilless mix.

    I was actually reading their website and saw they will actually custom mix fertilizer based on your water for hydroponics. Maybe they would also do that for soil? Also, I notice they have a dry mix which might be more useful/economical in the ground.

  • lindalana 5b Chicago
    8 years ago

    "Everything that is made of the elements in the periodic table is one kind of chemical or other. Water is a chemical and vital, eg.
    I could be wrong, but I don't thing that applying synthetic fertilizer to soil destroys the soil web./ microbes. I still keep amending my garden soil by compost and manures. The soil web food is there too.
    One thing to remember is that the so-called synthetic fertilizers compounds like nitrates , sulfates , phosphates ... etc are naturally occuring compounds are not totally synthesized."

    This conversation leads me to conclusion that eating fresh nutritiously grown fruits and veggies is the same as taking bunch of well balanced vitamins every day.

    Nope, not even close. Just like a human body will prefer good food to bunch of pills, plants will prefer good stuff over 10-10-10 NPK solution. Chemical ferts made out of salts and when in action their pH goes anywhere from 1 to 11, which is harmful to soil food web. These ferts usually contain overabundance of hydrogen which kick other minerals out of soil. Plants do that too but in much more controlled fashion. Due to process being intense- oxygen which is created during the process burns out too much of organic matter, which as results minimizes your efforts of adding humus to the soil. It is far more easier to create imbalance in the soil with chemical ferts even slow release ones.

    All chemical ferts are not evil, and at times even helpful however one need to be far more judicious in using them than getting 10-10-10 Miracle Grow out of box store and pouring into watering can. Unfortunately it is just very easy and you get some results, even if you have to pour bunch of insecticides/fungicides on top of it.


  • Seysonn_ 8a-NC/HZ-7
    Original Author
    8 years ago

    Jenn, here are a few pictures of my garden, as requested,

    it shows all my tomatoes and peppers too.
    another shot
    in this bed I have BgBf, Big Rainbow, Black from Tula and CP.
    The top of hoop is about 42", just to give you an idea about the height of the plants . I planted them out on April 17th.
    Brandy Boy on the back (not seen) is about 4ft tall.

    Sey


  • Seysonn_ 8a-NC/HZ-7
    Original Author
    8 years ago

    Steve,
    No problems. Your garden is your kingdom. You rule.
    I believe in freedom of choice and practice in the garden.

    OK. more pictures : This time few flowers;

    more
    one more: a semi megabloom on dwarf Purple Heart

    Sey


  • daniel_nyc
    8 years ago

    sey, what plastic do you use for mulching?

    Link please.

  • Seysonn_ 8a-NC/HZ-7
    Original Author
    8 years ago

    Daniel, I use xlarge heavy duty trash bags. Cut them open ( 2 ways to do it) . This works for me because my Rbeds are no bigger than 3ft x 6 ft.
    It is the same as 6-8 mill sold at the big box : Mohawk ?

    I don not use it as Mulch, per say, but mainly to warm up the soil. I do it in Jan or Feb. When time comes to plant out I cute a (X) incision for each plant hole.
    I remove them in july. I don have heat and/or weed problem, but rain and cold.
    Sey


  • daniel_nyc
    8 years ago
    last modified: 8 years ago

    Tx.

    I agree that the black bags are VERY good to warm the soil.

    And to protect in the same time for rain splashing.

    In July, after removing the black plastic, do you mulch?

    Btw, how do you water?

  • christacharlene
    8 years ago
    last modified: 8 years ago

    I add some compost to each planting hole before I plant my tomatoes. Once they are in the garden I fertilize them with Miracle Gro maybe 3 or 4 times throughout the growing season. My plants are always tall and produce a good crop. At garden clean out time in the fall, I add a thick layer of leaves to the top of my garden beds. That is pretty much all I do as far as fertilizing goes and it works fine for me.

    Here is a picture of my plants last year on July 3, 2014. They were planted at the beginning of May 2014. They grew a lot taller before the season was over.

  • Seysonn_ 8a-NC/HZ-7
    Original Author
    8 years ago

    Daniel,
    when I remove the plastic then I sprinkle some pine bark as mulch, just prevent splashing. Otherwise i have neither weed problem nor drying out because of heat.
    How I water ?
    When the plastic is on I water one by one with hose/shower head.. When the plastic is removed I water the whole bed with hose/shower head. At that tome the roots have spread wide so need to water thoroughly then.
    To fertilize, I use 2-gallon watering can, filled with water soluble fertilizer mix.

    Sey


  • lindalana 5b Chicago
    8 years ago

    here is another way to fertilize https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pSShndKiA3g

  • hoosier40 6a Southern IN
    8 years ago

    I have to admit to becoming somewhat lazy and using more chemical fertilizer the last couple of years. Most of the time I work in large amounts of composted manure every year and just used a little fertilizer on sweet corn which requires a lot of nitrogen. It is a lot of work in a 5000 sq. ft. garden to try to amend the whole thing. What I need to do is build raised beds so that I can concentrate my efforts. Cost is somewhat prohibitive, but by adding them a few every year I should be able to get it done. Another benefit to having the raised beds is being able to plant out earlier as the soil is sometimes too wet to work on schedule for mid season crops and almost always too wet to work for early crops like lettuce, peas, ect. Thanks for the video lindalana. I have toyed with the idea of making a true terra preta by incorporating ground up charcoal. Has anyone done that and how has it worked?

  • Jennie Sims
    8 years ago
    last modified: 8 years ago

    okay, Linda now you have me searching on the internet for hours. Have you used terra preta concepts? going to help my daughter do raised gardens this fall and this will be my garden too next year as we will be in the process of moving. great video, inspires further research

    Jennie

  • Seysonn_ 8a-NC/HZ-7
    Original Author
    8 years ago

    Back To Fertilizing:

    In the past I have used MG blue water soluble (24-8-16) during the grwing time. I usually have used it at ~~ 1/2 strength but more often.
    Now I hear some arguing that perhaps a 3-1-2 ratio of NPK is too rich in N and too poor in P. So to cope with that I have bought a quart of Alaska fish fert with 0-10-10 ratio.
    A Gardener's Master Brew:
    I want to mix the MG 24-8-16 and Alaska 0-10-10 such that I get a 10-10-15 ratio.

    A little bit messing with the numbers I came up with a pretty good brew:

    === TAKE 7 PORTIONS OF 0-10-10 SOLUTION , ( made as recommended.)
    === TAKE 4 PORTIONS OF 24-8- 16 SOLUTION (made as recommended)
    What I get is pretty close to an equivalent of 10-10-14 (NPK).solution
    I have reduced N and increased P. Now my tomato plants should have no excuse for not to fruiting aplenty . LOL

    Of course, I make a much concentrated mix , such the I take just a cup of it for 2 gallons of watering can. An it lasts for a few application. The 1st app was delivered on 6/5/15.

    To further spice it up, I also add a pinch of Epsom salt and some calcium acetate as supplement.
    The best brew ever. hahaha

    Sey


  • lindalana 5b Chicago
    8 years ago

    Hoosier and Jennie, to answer question- terra preta is new concept for me as well. I am just trying to learn about biochar, seems to be still in research mode. Garden guru whose wisdom I really like talks about it at about minute 3 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JWpLhJ6oCdI

    Sounds like a good deal to me if I can do something more permanent with my raised beds. I do get same plots at community gardens but have to redo beds every year. If I can get better survival for microbes this way- biochar it is.

    Sey, your garden looks lovely from another post pics. Hopefully you are happy with your brew. As Smilinggardener describes, I follow fertilizing with compost, leaf mulch and little of cover crops. No NPK rules need to apply although I do some "alchemy" with fish hydrolyze, kelp, molasses, EM, worm castings...

  • Seysonn_ 8a-NC/HZ-7
    Original Author
    8 years ago
    last modified: 8 years ago

    Lindalana, thanks.
    Compost , manure, organic matter are all fine.
    Man cultivated the land and farmed for millenniums without even knowing what NPK are.

    Sey

  • sjetski
    8 years ago
    last modified: 8 years ago

    Linda thank you for the Terra Preta link, it was interesting enough for me to finally try this afternoon. I created a 1/2 gallon of sludge using older bags of frozen mixed vegetables, spinach, romaine, parsley. I used about 2 cupfuls of this concentrate to divy up into 4 gallons of water, no straining, then froze the rest. I spread into my larger plot, then watered it a pinch then raked a little dirt over it. I even poured some into my containers hoping it would spur some biological activity, lol.

    I think i'm going to stick with this, I'll go a lot heavier next spring when i do my first till. I haven't used wood ashes in maybe 4 years (?) so maybe this fall i'll incorporate some more bio-char concepts too.

    Thanks again,
    -Steve

  • mister_caledon
    8 years ago

    Interesting thread, guys - looked over it once just now and will have to do so in more detail over the weekend. Always more to learn.

    This does bring a question to mind, given all the talk about putting in chopped-up leaves, rotted wood, bark nuggets... how about the plain-old hardwood mulch that I currently layered on top of the bed? It's purportedly all-natural non-colored etc. Instead of scraping it off the top at the end of the growing season, could I do just as well mixing it down into the soil for next spring? Or do I want to add wood that's already more rotted/soft?


  • lindalana 5b Chicago
    8 years ago

    My experience- attempt to keep it over the winter, may apply some manure on top. Mixing it down will get you too much of nitrogen loss and next season you will be hard pressed to keep adding something as your plants will have stunted growth. Otherwise yes, scrape it and use for compost pile. You can also look up ramial wood chips which are different ball game but might be better suited for what you looking.