Just like with any other mix you have to pay attention to the plant and the mix and only water when it tells you it needs watering. Stick your finger in the mix at least half way. If it feels damp or slightly moist, you don't need to water. If it is a deep pot, you can stick something like a wooden chopstick or dowel in to the middle of the mix, leave it for a minute, then pull it out. If it feels damp, don't water. A houseplant, indoors at that temperature, in a properly sized pot is not going to need to be watered often. You might be able to water once a week. If you see the leaves showing any sign of wilting or appearing to be limp or pale, water right away. When you do water, be sure you get all the mix wet and that some comes out the bottom. Most plants like a wet to dry cycle.

I have a question.

5:1:1 mix is a mix with tiny barks (composted barks) and with big barks (3/8 inch).

Why do you like big barks? PLease read this:

"MIX - mix is a term
used in the horticulture trade for growing medium and is always a controversial subject.
Exotic formulae and wildly conflicting advice abound and it’s difficult for the
newcomer to sort it out. Using a quality mix is absolutely vital to growing superb plants
and you shouldn’t think of it as just “dirt” you put in the container along
with your plant.

Is it better to buy commercial mix or make your own? The
answer is clearly in favor of commercial products. Note that we are referring to
professional products and not consumer type mixes like the generic “cactus soil”
you might find at the discount store. The manufacturing of growing medium is complex and
technical and is best left to specialized industry. If you choose to make your own, keep
in mind that there are many issues to consider for which most of us are not prepared.

There have been great advances in the last 15 years in
commercial growing medium and the trend is definitely toward soilless mixes. These come in
a variety of formulations with the composted bark being the best. Few growers today use
soil based medium as the results realized with soilless mixes are so outstanding.

Simply stated, soilless mixes are based on the matrix
concept which is nothing more than a given volume of semi-uniform size particles which
provides for maximum growth. Nutrients are then added as fertilizer in solution or
incorporated dry into the matrix. The matrix is a carefully constructed blend of composted
bark (not landscaping bark), horticultural grade peat (not more than 20%), perlite (baked
pumice), vermiculite, and a buffering agent to adjust and stabilize pH. It contains no
field soil or aggregate whatsoever".

This is from "Highland Succulents has been one of the leading U.S. specialist nurseries devoted to
the cultivation and preservation of rare and endangered succulent plants", from "Specialist Growers of Super Quality Succulent PLants Since 1976".

Sourse: https://www.highlandsucculents.com/culture_guide.htm

Can we use only tiny compost barks + peat + perlite and vermiculite? Why AI's 5:1:1 is better than tiny compost barks + peat + perlite and vermiculite? Why do we need large pieces of bark?

DO you sure that 5:1:1 mix is the best mix (+ gritty mix)? Maybe we need to use different mixes for different conditions.

Let's see that woodnative(6) wrote me:

dert
17. Unfortunately (or fortunately) soils mixes and water are not an
exact science and depend a lot on conditions. Where are you and where
do you grow your plants (e.g. outside in Florida, in a greenhouse, in
full sun, in a dark cool room?). Porous mixes are good. In cool,
shady conditions a porous mix is a necessity. In very warm, humid
tropical conditions they are actively growing and seem to do ok in a
heavier soil mixture. An actively growing plant is going to need
more fertilizer than a dormant one in winter. A newly planted plant in
fresh good soil will not need fertilizer right away. A small pot
will need watering more often than a large pot (with same size plant).
If you fertilize often and have small pots it is good to give extra
water once and a while to flush out excess fertilizer. A crowded
trifasciata pot, in warm weather, actively growing in summer may need
watering 4 times a week. the same plant may need watering one times a
month in cool winter.

Sourse: http://forums.gardenweb.com/discussions/3209366/_trid=c2FuczIwMTQ7Z2ZhZGcyMDE2QHlhbmRleC5ydQ/my-sans-is-flowering

I wrote to woodnative: "

woodnative(6), thank you explained to me what we don't have ideal soil because we need to use various mixes in various conditions.

If I find ideal mix for my flat It can be bad mix for other people who live in other conditions.

Maybe this is reason why my Spider Plant grows bad in 5:1:1 mix, and
why another Spider Plant grows so well in coconut + universal potting
soil.

Do you sure that 5:1:1 mix or gritty mix is a good for all plants and for all conditions? Maybe for my flat (I live in Russia) this mix is not good at all? I live in St. Petersburg, in the northern city, there is little sun. We have a long winter, and low humidity (due to heating in winter), and plants are near a window in winter. Do you know Russian winter?A little sun, wind. You can put your plant away from window but this plant will have so little light. If your plant is on windowsill this plant will have some problems with wind or low light because you need to ventilate the room. I like winter, I like snow, but some plants don't like it at all.

I mean maybe we need use a lof of different mixes for different plants and for different conditions. Maybe 5:1:1 mix is a good for Bonsai or something like that, and for AI' conditions. I don't know. Maybe each plant has own perfect mix. And maybe we need to change this perfect mix if we change conditions. So we will have not 1 or 2 mixes but 1000 or 10 000.

I mean maybe we need a personal approach, not 1 or 2 mixes for all. For example, each plant needs its own pH level. And you need to change pH for this plant, you need to change this mix.

For example,

This is from book "'The Splendid Sansevieria' by Chahinian B.J.

"One mix, that was recommened to me and seems to
work very well is 1 part commercial potting mix with "coir" (coconut
fibers), 1 part perlite, 1 part calcined clay and 1 part 1/2 in thick
lava rock (the type used by orchid growers)

...

"If you live in a drier area, or you have you plants in a greenhouse, you should use 2 parts of the commercial mix with "coir".

...

clayey soils seem to add color and strength thought no controlled tests have been made to ascertain this.

...

Using calcined clay not only provides good drainage but seems to chemically interact with the plant".

I mean Sansevieria likes calcined clay but other plants like something else. Maybe other plants don't like calcined clay. So we need to have different mixes for different plants because they like different things, and you can have different conditions. One mix is for for drier area and second mix is not for drier area.

I need to test this more time. I will test this with Green Spider Plant soon.

Soon I will make new 5:1:1 mix and I will test Green Spider Plant. If you don't like my 5:1:1 mix you can write me something. I always listen to others.

I will test Green Spider Plant in early August (I will plant some babes in water and I will repot when they will have roots).

If I make two experiments with two different plants, it will be good.

Ohiofem(6a Ohio) wrote: "Just
like with any other mix you have to pay attention to the plant and the
mix and only water when it tells you it needs watering. Stick your
finger in the mix at least half way. If it feels damp or slightly
moist, you don't need to water. If it is a deep pot, you can stick
something like a wooden chopstick or dowel in to the middle of the mix,
leave it for a minute, then pull it out... If you see the leaves showing any sign of wilting or appearing to be limp or pale, water right away".

Ohiofem, please read this:

"When watering, use a good breaker on your hose or a soft
rose on your can. This prevents root damage caused from washed out mix. And finally do not
push anything into your containers to test the moisture level. This means your finger or
those awful dreaded moisture meter probes. Succulents have delicate fragile roots and you
will only damage them. Broken roots can rapidly lead to rotted plants from this bad novice
habit".

Sourse: https://www.highlandsucculents.com/culture_guide.htm

I also see that my Spider Plant in 5:1:1 mix don't like my finger. Maybe we need to see on our plants and don't use finger at all? I mean maybe our plants tell us then we need to water them. I mean maybe I can use only your tip "If you see the leaves showing any sign of wilting or appearing to be limp or pale, water right away"? (without my finger). But I fear that I can overdry my plants in this situation.

I used a wooden skewer and still do - while very seldom. Try to be careful, don't poke around willy-nilly and pay attention: sooner or later one can learn to judge without any devices if they are dry or not. I consider it a learning help, not a permanent thing.

I definitely would not poke around with my finger, and with any 'implement' all the time...

The spider plant, or Chlorophytum comosum, is not usually considered a succulent although it does have fleshy roots that store water. The plant is very vigorous and easy to grow, and the roots are not what I would call delicate. I have grown dozens of them over the years and never found them to suffer from damage to their roots from my habit of putting my finger in the mix.

You have to use common sense. I use my finger because I can feel the roots and avoid damaging them. I wouldn't stick my finger or a wooden stick in an area of the pot that is likely to have roots in it. If I use a stick to check soil moisture on a plant in a very deep pot, I push it in slowly and stop pushing if I meet resistance.

As Rina said, using your finger is a way to learn how to tell if your plant needs water. It is not something you should need to do more than a few times when you are getting used to your plant and figuring out how often to water.

Top left: 1 part Universal Potting Soil + 1 part coconut substrate,
Top right: Universal Potting Soil,
Bottom left, 5:1:1 mix.
Bottom right, 1 part garden soil (this is a not peat, this is a live soil) +
peat + 1 part perlite (I used sand but later remove sand and added perlite)

1. 2015.05.04

1. 2015.05.21
   

3. 2015.06.24

4. 2015.08.05

1 part Universal Potting Soil + 1 part coconut substrate gave first "flower". I don't know how tell "flower" on English. "Flower" is something that later will give babies.

It's very important for my plant. You can see "flower" in the сentre.

1 part Universal Potting Soil + 1 part coconut substrate 1 month ago

1 part Universal Potting Soil + 1 part coconut substrate now

You can see 5:1:1 mix (left) vs 1 part Universal Potting Soil + 1 part coconut substrate now (right). I added mulch for 5:1:1 mix.

I started my experiment 06.05.2015.

This plant on Top Left.
1 part Universal Potting Soil + 1 part coconut substrate

This plant was so small. And now I have plantless ("flower", soon it will be babies).

It's nice result. Only 3 months from tiny spider plant with tiny roots to mature plant with plantless ("flower"). Some people are waiting plantless ("flower", soon it will be babies) 1 year or more. Some people are waiting plantless 2 year or more. I have it only for 3 months!!! It's amazing. I could never imagine that it would be so fast!!!

It will be interesting to make the new experiment with Green Spider Plant (Chlorophytum comosum). WIll I have the same result or not?

I want to make new experiment:

1. 5:1:1 mix

2. 1 part Universal Potting Soil + 1 part coconut substrate (Universal Potting Soil is from Germany)

3. 1 part Universal Potting Soil + 1 part coconut substrate (Universal Potting Soil is from Russia)

4. 1 part garden soil (it's not peat it's live soil) + 1 part coconut substrate

5. Composted barks + Universal Potting Soil (less then 20%) + perlite + vermiculite (it's something like 5:1:1 mix but without large barks and with vermiculite)

6. mix with live or dry sphagnum (it's not sphagnum peat, it's live or dry sphagnum)

7. 1 part vermicompost + 1 part coconut substrate

8. Universal Potting Soil + coconut substrate + perlite + vermiculite

I'm far from an expert but it looks like the potting mix/coir is (top left) is far ahead of the others...

gardev, Yes are right. Mix =1 part of top-universal soil from Germany and 1 part of Coconut substrate from India = is far ahead of the others.

But I need to do second experiment.

maple_grove_gw wrote:

"The scientist in me says you need and of more than 1 before you can
draw any solid conclusions. To deconvolute any variables (such as
differing intrinsic vigor of the spider plant propagules) which may not
otherwise be obvious".

I agree with maple_grove_gw

And I need to wait more than 3 months. Maybe we will see some changes in the future. Maybe 5:1:1 mix will be better than other mixes after 5 months or 12 months.. I think that I need to wait 1 year. Yes, it's sad that we need to wait so many time but I want to do solid conclusion.

Typically with a plant experiment you want to control the number of variables such as plant position, light, temperature, wind exposure, etc so that you know which variables made the difference in growth. You can't do that if you have one plant in 8 different soils. You have to have multiples of each. So instead of having 8 individuals you would be better off with 3 plants in 3 different mixes. Then you would randomly assign a spot for them in a 3x3 grid and if you can, make a few more grids so that you can repeat the block and have more redundancy.
When you just have one plant in the mix all you are learning is whether the plant can be grown in that mix. You can't meaningfully compare the growth between mixes because one could have been in a breeze or got more sun.

I completely agree with Nil.

Also, I would add that the 5-1-1 container can/should be larger, which will mitigate the issues you had with the mix drying too quickly. Changing the container size is yet another variable; however, that's one way the 5-1-1 functions differently.

So many variables to consider.

Josh

Ok, so I will have 9 pots with 3 plants (3 plants per pot). It will be tiny spider plant with tiny roots.

But I will draw only 4 pots, because not enough place (you can see only 4 pots but I will use 9 pots).

All my plants will be on the same windowsill. And I will change location of my plants to be sure that they will have equal amount of light and wind (breeze)

You can see numbers. For example number 1 is a pot number 1. Number 2 is a pot number 2. An I will change location of my pots every week.

Ok, I want to test these things.

1 pot (with 3 plant): 1 part of German universal potting soil + 1 part of coconut (India)

2 pot (with 3 plants): 1 part of Estonia universal potting soil + 1 part of coconut (India)

3 pot (with 3 plants) : 1 part of Russian universal potting soil + 1 part of coconut (India)

4 pot (with 3 plants): 5:1:1 mix

5 pot (with 3 plants): 1 part of vermicompost + 1 part of coconut

6 pot (with 3 plants): mix with dry sphagnum (it's not Sphagnum peat, it's dry sphagnum)

7 pot (with 3 plants): 1 part of garden soil + 1 part of coconut substrate

8 pot (with 3 plants): German universal potting soil

9 pot (with 3 plants): 2 part of garden soil + 2 part of German universal potting soil + 1/2 part of perlite + 1/2 part of vermiculite

I think that it will be better

greenman28 NorCal 7b/8a wrote

"I completely agree with Nil.

Also, I would add that the 5-1-1 container can/should be larger,
which will mitigate the issues you had with the mix drying too quickly

Josh"

Josh, I will plant the tiny spider plants (babies), What minimum size of the pot can I use for 5:1:1 mix?

Nil13 usda:9a sunset:21 LA,CA (Mount Wash.) wrote:

"Typically
with a plant experiment you want to control the number of variables
such as plant position, light, temperature, wind exposure, etc so that
you know which variables made the difference in growth. You can't do
that if you have one plant in 8 different soils. You have to have
multiples of each. So instead of having 8 individuals you would be
better off with 3 plants in 3 different mixes. Then you would randomly
assign a spot for them in a 3x3 grid and if you can, make a few more
grids so that you can repeat the block and have more redundancy.
When you just have one plant in the mix all you are learning is whether
the plant can be grown in that mix. You can't meaningfully compare the
growth between mixes because one could have been in a breeze or got more
sun".

Nil13, you wrote that I need to use 1 plant per pot, right? But I can plant 3 plants per pot. Each plant will have a different light but if all plants in A mix will be better than all plants in B mix I can tell that A mix is better.

1. Each baby has a different genetic development speed. For example, let talk about babies in A mix: A1, A2 and A3. And about babies in B mix:B1, B2 and B3.

Maybe A1 will develop faster than B2 and B3 but B1 will develop faster than A2 and A3. I mean genetic development speed.

Maybe A1 will have less light then B1 and B3. But A2 will have more light than B2.

But if A1, A2 and A3 will be better than B1, B2 and B3 we can tell that A mix is a better than B mix.

What do you think about?

Let's talk about this:

You can see 3 plants in A mix: A1, A2, and A3.

A1 will have more light than A2 and A3.

Let's imagine B mix (we have plants B1, B2 and B3 in B mix). We can also tell than B1 will have more light than B2 and B3.

But if we will move plants every week A1 will have more light than B2 and B3 but B1 will have more light than A2 and A3.

But if all plants A1, A2 and A3 will be better than B1, B2 and B3 we can tell than A mix is better than B mix, right?

We also can rotate them. I wrote that we can move them every week. Buf if we will rotate them too A1, A2 and A3 will have very similar amount of light.

Ok, we can move them and rotate them every day. So we will have a very similar amount of light and breeze.

If we will move them and rotate them every day it will be not story about light and breeze. It will be story about different genetic development and how good mix A vs mix B.

But if all A1, A2, A3 will be better than B1, B2 and B3 we can tell than A mix is better than B mix. Of course, not one hundred percent. But it will be a very close comparison.

Also if we want we can repeat this comparison and we will be a more close to final closing.

For example, you can see circle number 4. This is a pot with 3 plants. I will use for this pot mix number 4. Every pot will have different mix. We want to find the best mix.

Turns and the movement of plants - is a way to give them a very similar amount of light and wind (breeze).

Let's talk about pot number 1(circle nubmer 1). This cirlce (pot) is on leftmost. We will have this pot on leftmost in day 1. But we will change this pot in day 2. This pot will be on rightmost. And we will rotate pot number 1.

And we will do these thing with all plants every day (to move and to rotate) (once every day, it will take five minutes each day to do that).

I will do this experiment but if you don't agree with me I can always change something. I did not plant them. I will do it later.

So I can change something very easy.

"Each plant will have a different light but if all plants in A mix will
be better than all plants in B mix I can tell that A mix is better." Then you're making light a factor which convolutes your results. You're also making the space for root development an issue... in your first experiment two of your plants were already significantly larger than the other two with longer more developed roots. If you were to plant three plants per pot, you wouldn't know if some plants were doing poorly because of light, root development, or some other factor.

Rotating the plants to be in the window further complicates things. What if one day is cloudy and another is sunny? How would you decide to rotate plants then? How could you be sure all plants are always getting equal light? The more you move them around, the more you introduce factors that effect the quality of your experiment.The best way to remove lighting from the equation. would be to put all of the plants under grow lights at the exact same distance from the plants with each plant in its own pot.

If you can only grow them in a window though, you could set it up like this:

Each circle is a pot with just one plant in it, and each colored group of three plants has the same kind of soil. So, the plants in the blue rectangle might all have 5:1:1 mix, the three plants in the yellow box might have traditional potting mix etc.

The tall rectangle on the right is the window.

Assuming your window is large enough that the whole window receives the same light, you shouldn't have to move or rotate plants like this. All of the plants closest to the window will be getting "high" light, all of the plants in the second column would be getting "medium" light, and all of the plants on the third column would get "low" light.

Splitting the plants up into their own pots and arranging them like this, without moving them, will let you know if a plant was successful because it had more or less light, or if it was more likely due to the mix. In other words, you could compare a plant grown in 5:1:1 mix and low light to a plant in potting soil and low light and not have to guess if the difference was due to light since they should be getting basically the same light as each other.

As the plants grow taller, the ones in front might block light from the ones in back in an unpredictable way. You might be able to make stands for the back two columns (the low light and medium light plants) on risers like theater seats so the plants in front don't block their light.

But, this is still over complicating things, since you're not even interested in testing lighting, and you're really interested in getting multiple plants in the same exact conditions.

If space is a concern, your experiment will be better if you reduce the scope instead of cutting corners by putting plants in the same pot. Keep the plants in separate pots, but don't test as many kinds of soils. Something like this:

Thank you for your opinion, it was very interesting to read.

I like the last three blocks, but instead of each block representing a medium, ( aaa, bbb, ccc, ....) I think you could average things out more if it were intermixed (abc, cba, bac, ...). The edge of the window makes thibgs difficult and I think you would need to compensate for that somehow.

dert17, I loved reading your experiment results! It might not have been exactly scientifically correct, but it was clear enough of a difference to see the coconut coir + universal soil mix did wonders for your plants each time. I'd say it's worth looking into.

I'd like to try using the 5-1-1 mix with coconut coir instead of peat moss to see how well it does.

dert17 I'm very interested to see how your spider plants are doing. Still keeping the experiment? I'm tempted to go and buy some coconut subtract for mine that's not looking good.

5:1:1 seem more appropriate for bonsai. Good experiment btw.

gudang, that's absolutely a false statement.

Look at the result up there. If i wanna keep my bonsai on their shape longer and not grow big too fast, that mix give best result.

There are too many variables.

All of my Ficus do much better in the 5:1:1 than anything else.

The mixes that you recommend are the reason why people come here with their sick, overwatered, dying plants in the first place.

Its clear to me you have never tried the 5:1:1 or gritty mix.

5:1:1 will give you faster growth both in the roots and up top. By your comment above, it's clean you don't know what you're talking about when it pertains to this mix.

You have yet to post a single photo or a single qualification.

Here are some photos of my plants thriving in the 5:1:1 mix. Including a spider plant.

More than enough examples. All in the 5:1:1. None are bonsai.

I'm not saying that you're wrong, dave. Maybe your gardening style suit with that. It's good that you have very good result with that mixture for everything. Your hardcore support for that mixture can be seen in every posts you made. It's fine. What i said just based on the experiment above.

Yes I do support the 5:1:1 mix as do a lot of others.

It can get really tough for someone asking for help here when we are recommending a mix and you chime into the same thread recommending native soil, dense mixes, earth worms, etc.

Honestly, have you taken a look through this thread?

http://forums2.gardenweb.com/discussions/2842847/container-soils-water-movement-and-retention?n=8

Theres always room in life to learn something new.

I did not read all the posteses, but I'd say this experiment is ferblunjit!

Which soils watering schedule was used?

If you water 5-1-1 to the level as commercial peat mixes, the 5-1-1 will be DRASTICALLY under watered. If you watered to the 5-1-1 specs, the peat based mixes would be root rotted and dead.

I didn't wade through all the responses, but i'd be willing to bet eleventeen dollars to a doughut hole if you repeated the experiment with a moisture meter, and watered at the same degree of low moisture, the results would be vastly different.

Use identical pots and use a scale and water when the weight gets to a certain weight. You would be watering the 5-1-1 three or four times more often.

For example, I started some porterweed seeds in a commercial mix, and watered it when I watered my 5-1-1 plants. At one month they were about 2 inches tall, and just wouldn't grow. I realized my mistake and repotted into 5-1-1. When I pulled them out of the pot, the mix was like chocolate pudding. Since putting them in 5-1-1, they started to grow much more and the leaves were MUCH greener.

Anything except 5:1:1 seems to be wrong for you guys. Yeah, i learn something new.

You should give it a try for yourself. Your plants would thank you for it.

Gudang, I do want you to know none of this is personal. It's great that you're here and want to help others. Some of the info you push just goes completely against what most on this forum advise. As I said, that can be confusing to new comers in the plant world.

As i said many times before, pine bark not available here, so i plant with any good things available. I never rely on particular soil dependently. All have their own characteristics. Skill and knowledge will lead the way.

"Skill and knowledge will lead the way." Things like that have been stated many times around here.

No matter the skill and knowledge, there will still be limitations when using things such as native soils, compost, etc.

While it doesn't seem like you will read it, the link I posted above has some great into. It might open your mind a little.

I've never once seen you post that pine bark isn't available there.

Even if you can't access it, telling others they should use heavy dense soils instead of fast draining mixes will only hold them and their plants potential back.

It's only cover physical properties, dave. I read that already. Every soil has it's own characteristics, nothing is best for everything. Dense and porous soil have their own functionality, i use them all. Even kitchen trash if i can make it work then i will use it. As simple as that.

Gudang, I don't recall you saying pine bark isn't available for you once, let alone many times before, either.

It is important to qualify your advice, so other people know whether it is relevant to their situation.

For example, I could say "yes, it's fine to start your spring plants now", but if I didn't tell people my seasons were 6 months out from theirs it would be misleading.

As long as i know, what i was doing here is sharing my view, enrich perspective for others in simple detail english language. All measured. If i don't explicitly recommend products, mixture, or such, yes i did. I prefer broader term like less porous, more porous, more dense etc since this forum accessible wordwide.. If that's not qualify enough for you then i'm sorry.

The problem is, you've been jumping into all of the Ficus threads telling newcomers to do the exact opposite of what most of us recommend.

All indoor Ficus will do best in a chunky fast draining mix with larger particles. Yet, you tell people to use a dense mix.

Its not a problem to me personally, but it's a problem because new people coming to this site may not know any better and if they take your advice that may end up with a water logged rotted plant. After all, overwatering issues are the main reason people come here.

I don't think anyone on here has seen photos of plants you've grown.

Yes, I post that others should use the 5:1:1 most of the time. I have photographic proof that it actually works.

Gudang, a lot of people here on this forum started with a heavy dense soil mix, often with compost and other soil components - because that is what is commonly available. Then they noticed that their plants are start to suffer at one point and came here for advise. Al (Tapla) has relentlessly taught the concept for better soil mix, fertilizing, pruning, repotting and many other topics. Most made an effort to follow in his foot steps and found his teachings to be invaluable and succeeded in keeping their plants flourishing. In short, he has a lot of credibility here. Not only that they have subsequently helped others because they understood the concept that no book can offer. Whereas you have yet to offer sound advice with evidence of success. First you have to build and establish your credibility - show your work and explain not only what but also how and why. For example, terms like less porous and more porous does not make any sense - more or less compared to what?

Most of asker are new to the plant guys. Your approach is on soil to be more porous, like everytime.. . My approach is on habit because people that have plants for first time usually too care for their plant. They watering more, fertilizing more, etc. Sometime the leaf sign is only lack of nutriens so the remedy is giving proper nutriens. Some nutriens like N or K need more dense soil, which mean the owner at that time using too porous soil that make some nutriens washed away while watering. On that situation of course i suggest more dense soil. If everytime i suggest more dense it's mean i against 511.. i don't know guys. Maybe you just need a villain to be a hero, i don't know.. i'm not a kid anymore.

You do not need a more dense soil to properly fertilize.

Again, most that come here have over watered and their plants are in a very dense mix.

Recommeding 5:1:1 almost all the time will definitely yield better results.

There's always a person like you that shows up and tries to go against the grain on these boards. You're not the first and you won't be the last.

Do as you wish. But please understand recommending a heavy dense soil to someone growing any type of Ficus INDOORS IN A CONTAINER really isn't going to benefit them or their plant.

Details worth millions, dave. Ask Oprah. Not all that you think overwatered is overwatered.

Have you try growing fruit tree in container? They need denser soil to produce fruit. If you use 511, you need to wait till some of the bark degrade, decompose, to be denser.

I'm not against anything. I am cool, just sharing my view like other person does. If you feel offended by that, it's your problem not me or others. So enjoy it.

What is so special about growing fruit trees in containers? Does it take some special genius intellect to do so?

Nothing personal, Gudang I'm just curious, from a clinical psychology standpoint, as to why people that grow fruit trees in containers seem to love to throw that out there during a discussion as if it were a Nobel or Pulitzer Prize.

I'm going to get a containerized fruit tree after work today. I suddenly feel as though I'm missing out on something special!

Gudang: If you head over to the Citrus, Fig and other fruit forums you may find that many are growing in a good porous mix like 511 with success. Many of us here in US have to bring our tropical fruit plants inside in winter and yet we can produce good fruits. If you are in the tropics then you should be more successful

I will suggest (and challenge you) again. Start a new thread with pictures of your best plants, how long they have been grown, description of your soil, how you fertilize and your environment. I think most here will be happy to comment on your thread and display our plants (of various kinds) in comparison.

In the mean time you can read Chapter 2 on container growing at this site: https://rngr.net/publications/ctnm/volume-2

And finally a quote; "You are entitled to your opinion. But you are not entitled to your own facts" by Daniel Patrick Moynihan

I too would like to see what you have grown Gudang. Not to criticize but because I'm curious.

For you advice to be taken seriously, you need some credibility. You have yet to show any.

All We have gotten from you is a pretty outdated approach to growing so far.

@mblan13

Trees growing leaves, then flowers, and then fruiting. Just like 1,2,3.. but 3 always come after 1 and 2.

@tropico

Ficus carica and citrus are a good start since they're easy to produce fruits in container, but many others not come that easy. Sometimes we end up with healthy trees, but only leaves, no sign of flowering at all.

I'm not professional gardener. What i do here already at best i able to share with my time. Maybe later if i have more time i will share pics and other things.

@dave

Either take it or leave it. Even Einstein himself only share his equations and logical explanation. No experiment nor proof. I'm not a genius, i just follow his way.

Your fav approach has been arround for years. If it's makes you stop learning, yeah, it will always be the newest for you forever.