I read another post, perhaps on another site, that said newly ground coffee - applied heavily - will keep the slugs/snails at bay. The caffeine (needs to be fresh, not yet used) kills them as they slither through it. I'm on my way to Costco to get their cheapest bag of beans and try it out. I read in the same post that Sluggo kills beneficial bugs too. I used Sluggo last year and it worked well. I'll use it again if the coffee fails.

Seedmama, I only use a Spinosad product that is applied to the ground in the form of a granular or pelleted product. I don't spray any sort of liquid Spinosad product on my plants because I have bees everywhere (not beekeeper bees in a hive, just native, local ones). After I put down the Spinosad pellets, I mulch over them so the bees cannot land on them. I don't know if Spinosad applied in a pelleted or granular product to the ground would harm bees, but I will assume it isn't harming mine because I have a billion bees here every year. There's always so many bees around my garden that friends of mine who are afraid of bees will refuse to go into my garden because of all the bees. In our garden, before I discovered Slug-Go and, later on, Slug-Go Plus, the sow bugs and pill bugs would literally eat every bean plant I planted as soon as it emerged. I'd lose hundreds of bean plants a year and then when I replanted, I lost those too. That changed after I found Slug-Go. I also lost tons of tomatoes, strawberries and melons to the pill bugs and sow bugs, and they are not a problem on those plants any more either. I don't think I could raise edible crops here without Slug-Go. Heather, There are different formulations of spinosad. I don't use the liquid spray formulation because it might kill bees (in fact, I think it would kill them) if they visit plants sprayed with it. This is especially true if the bees visit plants shortly after they were sprayed and before the spinosad formulation has dried. If a person uses the Spinosad spray formulation, they can greatly reduce Spinosad-related bee mortality by timing their spraying so that they are spraying when bees are not active. In my garden and yard, the bees come in heavy numbers when something is blooming that they like. When I don't have anything in bloom that they like, then they go elsewhere. I work really hard to have something in bloom for them all the time, but of course, there are some times there's a lot for them and other times when there's not nearly as much in bloom. I don't think there is anything in Spinosad that specifically attracts bees, just that it has the potential to harm them if sprayed on plants they like and visit. When applied only to the ground, I don't see how it could hurt the bees unless they land on the ground and make contact with it. Almost all broad-spectrum pesticides, whether synthetic or organic in nature, have the potential to harm bees and that is one reason to avoid broad-spectrum pesticides. Remember that Slug-Go is iron phosphate only and it is perfectly effective on snails and slugs and even pretty effective on sow bugs and pill bugs. It is the Slug-Go Plus which has both iron phosphate and Spinosad that is effective not only on snails and slugs, but also on pill bugs, sow bugs and cutworms. So, a person seeking to control snails and slugs only could use Slug-Go and other products with the same active ingredient (Escar-Go! is another one) with no fear of harming the bees. I also use an organic fire ant product that contains Spinosad, but I don't think bees visit my ant hills. Dawn

pre-finished is a final coat applied in a factory. Site finished is the final coats applied in your home. Solid hardwood, as opposed to engineered or laminate, can be either factory or site finished. Another element in the mix is whether there is a bevel or not. A bevel is an angle, usually just a microbevel or a small bevel between the boards. A sanding removes the bevel in most cases so a site finished floor usually has no bevels. I personally prefer a no bevel floor as I would be concerned that little specks of hard matter would get in the cracks (accumulate in the bevels). But my concern may not be real and may only be a worry. My dil has a prefinished, bevelled floor and has no dirt in the cracks. So i cannot say for sure, only what is my perception. I think all engineered is pre finished. I think.

Hi, Pauled99, I am not sure I understood your question exactly. It may be easiest for me to try to explain it in my terms. Both vertical pipes from the basement serve the same purpose they did originally. I just crossed them left-to-right before they came up from the basement. The leftmost copper pipe, which extends vertically from the basement and makes a right-angle turn to become horizontal and enters the galvanized tee in its middle port, only vents a sink in a bathroom in the basement. Obviously, the horizontal section is well above the flood rim of the basement fixture. The right copper pipe comes up from the basement, turns 90 deg to the right to become a horizontal drain (sloped at 1/4" per foot), turns vertical, and is teed into the stub-out for the kitchen sink with a sanitary tee. Above this tee, it is now considered a vent. It then turns 45 deg (remaining a "vertical" vent), and then turns 45 deg the other way to go into the bottom port of the galvanized tee. The vertical galvanized pipe vents both the basement and kitchen fixtures. In the basement, the two downpipes are joined by a sanitary wye below the point where the bathroom fixture joins the left-hand downpipe. The single drain then goes below the basement floor to join the main (?) house sewer line. After that picture was taken, I put steel plates over the stud notches to protect the pipes from screws/nails. The plumbing inspector took a look at the work, *briefly* thought about squawking about the galvanized tee before realizing it was strictly a vent at that point, and then admired the job and gave it a thumbs-up. If this explanation is not clear, feel free to ask a follow-up question. What I learned during this process is that the plumbing codes actually make sense, even if not at first to the uninitiated. For example, as a novice, I would have turned the drain for the sink vertically instead of horizontally, and teed it into the horizontal drain line. However, that would have made the section to the right of that tee into an illegal horizontal vent. Stuff that goes down the sink could splash to the right (i.e., upstream). Since there is no water flow there to wash it down, it could get lodged there and obstruct the vent. This was not obvious to the tyro, but makes sense to me now. Again, a thousand thanks to lazypup.