I think the light looks fine at the height it is, but it's the tile frame that's throwing it off. I think I'd be inclined to find some art that would fill that frame or a wall sculpture to float in it and the light would look more like it was placed to feature the art. Even a contrasting tile (or maybe a few relief cast tiles) would add some interest inside the frame. If you lower the light to the center of the frame, it's going to look like you intended the light to be a framed art piece. At first I thought this was a mirror but I guess it's a pass through. You can't see the whole pendant, but based on the cabinets, it looks to be about the same height. I like how they have the contrasting back splash and even though you can't tile it like this, maybe you could do something contrasting with tile in that lower area to make the higher frame seem deliberate. Like tiling a piece and have it installed in front of the existing tile, kind of like this, still with something interesting in the framed area? [Contemporary Kitchen design[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/contemporary-kitchen-ideas-phbr1-bp~t_709~s_2103) by Cleveland Design-build Artistic Renovations of Ohio LLC

As for the faucet, that is the faucet she chose too, and it is IMO terrible. It's so high up that water splashes EVERYWHERE, including all over you. It also doesn't reach out far enough, so you're trying to wash something and you can't get it under the faucet because it's too close to the back wall of the sink. It's the pits. It's one I considered and almost went withâ¦until I did more reading, research, etc., and went in a whole other direction, and boy am I glad I didn't get that one! Just for the sake of saying it, what I settled on - and am not only so glad I did but my plumber gave me big kudos on the decision - was the Wolverine Brass Finale Single Handle Kitchen Faucet with side sprayer ( See link). I got it in the brushed nickel and am torn as to wether I wish I'd gotten it in the chrome, which is less expensive. I watched a video by some kitchen faucet manufacturer, can't recall which, and even they said they recommend getting a side sprayer if you have the sink for it (i.e.: four hole-sink v. one hole). I originally wanted a pull-down faucet, but based on that, went with the side spray, and again, am SO glad I did. The WB Finale Single Handle Kitchen faucet is the perfect height and extends out the perfect distance. It's HEAVY, which is one thing my plumber really liked about it, but he also praised me for getting a WB in the first place and said WB makes great faucets. Well, I love, love, LOVE the faucet. I ordered mine though the site below because WB doesn't sell directly to non-plumbers. But Elizabeth at Matson's was SO helpful and great. And look at the price! WAY cheaper than the one you ordered and a MUCH better faucet. Use the extra money for those gorgeous pendant lights and a nice light over the sink! I also don't like faucets that have the water control on one side of the faucet. Such a pain. With the water control on top, you can use either hand to control the water. One thing: I did buy a Moen weight to attach to the sprayer tube under the sink. I think it was @ $20 and totally worth it. The sprayer now goes right back into place and stays upright and tight in its place. I've made some decisions I regret. This is definitely NOT one of them. I will only purchase WB faucets in the future. They're inexpensive but very high quality because they're simple but very well made. That is rare now. Usually quality is sacrificed for bells and whistles and status/latest thing now. Don't make that mistake. Here is a link that might be useful: Wolverine Brass faucet

cherylbirth - degrees Kelvin (K) - measures color Lumens - measures brightness Watts (w) - measures energy used 3500K isn't a measurement of brightness, it is a measure of color temperature. The lower the degrees Kelvin ("K"), the more warm/yellow/orange the lights look. The higher the degrees Kelvin, the more cool/blue/purple the lights look. In my opinion - and this is all subjective! - 3500K would be too "white" to use in most areas of my home. It looks bluish to me and makes people look kind of pasty. It's fine in our garage or storage area in our basement, but not in my bedroom. For people who grew up with incandescent bulbs, a "soft white" color is going to look most familiar - the range for soft white is 2700K-3000K. That's what most people are used to at this point in time. Anything below that will look very orange. Anything above that will look very blue. So if you want to get something that will look like a "typical" incandescent lightbulb, then something in this range would be ideal. A related issue is that most LED lights dim differently than incandescents. Incandescent lights will get warmer as they dim. So when they are at 100% brightness, they might be 3000K. As they dim, they can get down to 2400K. So an incandescent light bulb will look pretty white when it is at full brightness and get more yellow/orange as you dim it. Again, this is what our brains are used to seeing if we grew up with this type of lightbulb. Most LED lights do not get warmer as they dim. So a 3000K LED light will typically remain at 3000K when dimmed, it will just emit less light. This will look unnatural to someone who grew up using incandescent bulbs, since we are used to the light getting more orangey as it dims. The newer LED technology adjusts for this and allows the lightbulbs to mimic incandescents more closely. So the newer LED lights with dim-to-warm technology will look 3000K at full brightness, and get closer to 2600K when dimmed. Most of them don't get to the 2400K range like an incandescent, but the effect is better than nothing. These LED lights are the closest option right now to mimicking an incandescent light. All of the discussion about what looks best is subjective, but I do think it is distracting to mix colors of lights within a room. Maybe you can do everything in your bathroom at a cooler temperature, and everything in your bedroom at a warmer temperature, but to me, it looks very odd to see the different tones of lights in the same room. Instead of blending in and just lighting up the space, they become their own element with different colors scattered around the room.

1- The regular bulb might be not easy to reach inside the bottle making it difficult to replace when burnt out, I'd go with a tubular one unless the bulb is easily reachable from the bottom. 2- Tinted bulbs might not be bright enough to shine through dark bottles, specially since Edison bulbs are about 2700K (warm light). 3- Cons of using incandescent, with a 14 bulb fixture and each bulb using 40 watts you might end up with a fixture that will emit a lot of heat, you could use LED Edison bulbs, they look almost the same, they're brighter and they emit very little heat (also some incandescent bulbs don't do to well in enclosed shades such as glass bottles and they might burn out faster). 4- The switch should handle the wattage, I often make 30 bulb chandeliers and they perform as they should. A 30 bulb chandelier made by me, shown with LED Edison bulbs.