IDing zone 4 or 5 by New Dawn performance? Anyone else with New Dawn?
laura242424
8 years ago
Featured Answer
Comments (27)
laura242424
8 years agonippstress - zone 5 Nebraska
8 years agoRelated Discussions
New Dawn Deformity
Comments (18)Concerning whether plant viruses are systemic (i.e. is the entire plant infected). In 1995 Davis reported in a reviewed scientific publication that: "The California Grapevine Certification Program has been based on two assumptions about leafroll disease in grapevines: that the disease does not spread significantly in the field in California and that the viruses that cause the disease are evenly distributed in infected vines. Careful testing of the Foundation Plant Materials Service vineyards at Davis using a new ELISA test suggests that these assumptions are not true. Changes in the California Grapevine Certification Program are underway as a result of this new information." ( http://californiaagriculture.ucanr.org/landingpage.cfm?article=ca.v049n01p26&abstract=yes ). From the abstract one can click on the "Full Text" PDF to examine the full paper (you may have to hold down the control key). The following is a quote from the full paper: page 28 "The results revealed that for a few of the tested vines, samples collected from one side'were ELISA positive while the opposite side tested negative. These results suggest that in some vines GLRaVs are not distributed uniformly.". Is this still considered to be accurate? The following 2008 newsletter states: Page 37 "The R&C Program was guided at the outset by two assumptions about grapevine leafroll disease. The existing state of scientific knowledge at the time was that grapevine leafroll viruses spread only by grafting healthy stock with infected stock and did not spread naturally in vineyards. (Golino et al., 2002; Goheen et al.,1959). The second assumption was that the viruses that caused leafroll disease were evenly distributed through infected vines. (Rowhani and Golino, 1995). New technologies and many deteriorating vines later proved both assumptions inaccurate." ( http://fps.ucdavis.edu/WebSitePDFs/Newsletters&Publications/GrapeNewsletterOct2008.pdf ) ------------------------------------------ The key 2000 Mourey et.al. paper that documented uneven virus distribution in roses is at: http://apsjournals.apsnet.org/doi/pdfplus/10.1094/PHYTO.2000.90.5.522 It gives a reference to a 1998 paper that they summarize as stating: "virus distribution in the plant is often heterogeneous (1)." It also states: "ELISA test of cuttings. Six to eight single-node cuttings (approximately 5 cm long) of healthy and PNRSV-infected Anna and Lnidas plants were excised in the medial zone of floral stems at anthesis. Basal ends of the cuttings were dipped into 0.5% (wt/wt) ï¢-indole butyric acid. To protect them against fungal infection, they were treated with 800 mg of pyrimethanil (SCALA; AgrEvo, Berlin) per liter. Cuttings were cultivated in perlite in a heated glasshouse (minimal temperature 25°C) at 80% relative humidity. After 15 days, the rooted cuttings were transferred to a culture room at 22°C with a 16-h photoperiod. For each cutting, leaflets from the axillary leaf were tested by ELISA when cuttings were removed from the mother plant. Young shoots grown from the axillary buds of each cutting were tested by ELISA when they were 2 to 5 cm long." Table 1 in the paper tells the number of days after the mother plants were tested that the leafed out cuttings were tested (30 to 86) and the number of samples (48 to 76). In the conclusion section they state: "A total of 89% (59 out of 66) of Anna stems was entirely PNRSV negative when axillary shoots from these stems developed after the decapitation of the floral stem, after the development of cuttings, or grown in vitro were tested by ELISA. ELISA tests of leaves from these stems were all negative. Since IC-RT-PCR conducted in parallel on all the explants from three (out of seven) of these stems also were negative, we suspect that these stems were virus free, even if they belonged to infected plants, or that the viral titer was very low in the stems." Please notice the conservative word "suspect" and the conservative statement "or that the viral titer was very low in the stems." In my experience this is the normal way of stating results as scientists realize that our interpretations and experimental methods are not normally "absolutely definitive". -------------------------------- How could this information be useful to a rose gardener? First an example. If one finds that a branch that shows signs of RRD, the RRD literature suggests that if one cuts off the branch at the ground level that the plant "may" be saved. I have followed this advice and saved several important plants. Now, if a rose grower finds virus type symptoms on one branch; the older "Rose Virus" literature is telling him/her that it is futile to try to save the plant by either cutting off the diseased branch or by taking a cutting from a distant branch for a new start. I suggest that the literature should state that at present there is some scientific evidence that one "may" be able to obtain a virus free plant from cutting starts. And, by analogy to RRD, possibly cutting off the infected care at root level may save the plant. Here is a link that might be useful: 2000 Mourey et. al. rose virus paper...See MoreNew Dawn: Blooms on new wood?
Comments (15)No mine is own root from Heirloom. First summer it grew like a single cane going to about 5 ft straight up because I attached to the wooden trellis that way. Most of the growth you see in photo is this year with many new basal breaks. No pruning, just dead heading. This year I learned that climbers break more laterals if they are trained more horizontal (45 degrees or less) so I just took down all the canes and practically lay them on the ground. It worked and they grew toward the sun with lots of new laterals. It looked kind of messy at times, but when they got really long I attached them to the trellis, on more of a diagonal angle which looks more tidy. Also I think attaching them on the trellis in such a way that the tip is drooping downward also may help lateral and bloom development along the stem (apparently hormones at the flowering tip suppress flowering along the stem)....See MoreAdvice - New Dawn Climbing Rose and Clematis for a Newbie Gardener
Comments (20)LIV - I'm in zone 5 too and I have a lot of climbers, so you're right to ask for advice before you get too far in your plans and work too hard. We want you to enjoy your roses rather than get disappointed in your first planting, so that's why we're being discouraging about your original plan and encouraging other roses or combinations of where to plant what you have and what you could have. You can plant these NDs but I really wouldn't recommend in front of the house. You could probably prune very hard each year and keep New Dawn a modest size, but odds are you'd also be cutting off most of your chances for rebloom or even a first bloom if you're trying to rein it in. Roses tend to bloom best at their preferred size, and climbers are particularly notorious for not wanting to bloom much until they've spent some time at their height where they want to bloom. That's why we in cold zones want to plant tip-hardy roses that keep their canes after the winter so they can keep growing taller and putting out more laterals. Any climbers will bloom better if you can tie the initial canes horizontally to allow them to put out canes growing up off that sideways cane (we call these laterals). If you don't want a couple of "powder puff" blooms on the end of a tall narrow climber, that's the kind of treatment you want to do for the rose. The narrow width of your trellis doesn't really allow much room for the canes to be bent sideways and as others have said if ND is happy in this spot it will actively and aggressively pull it off your house and attack you and your neighbors when they come to the door. So here's your dilemma if you try to leave the NDs in the front of the house where you have them: scenario 1 - like mine your NDs will not grow beyond knee high in 3-4 years and never bloom, eventually dying, so you're disappointed scenario 2 - your NDs are happy with this spot in front of your house and grow to the size of anything like Oakley's or Daisy's, totally outgrowing this space and making you and your neighbors unhappy scenario 3 - you vigorously and constantly prune back a happy ND to the point where it is now unhappy and puts out only leaves with no blooms I'd opt for scenario 4, where you put them to the sides of your house where they can expand to their heart's content if they're happy, or they won't wreck your vision for the front of the house if you're unhappy. There's a circle off to the left of the original photo that could probably rein in one of the NDs, and there's (unnecessary?) grass beyond that on the side of the house that you really didn't want to mow, did you (smile)? You asked about the type of support that can hold a happy ND in our zones, and my suggestion would be something like the 8'x6' arch where I have a vigorous and aggressively happy Quadra (yes, that's all one rose): If you find that after putting the NDs under an arch like this at the side of your house you end up with scenario 1 and the scrawny runts look ridiculous under the arch, that now becomes an excuse to buy more roses (something we all can help you do with glee). You won't know however if you have a happy ND for about 4 years, since that's how long it takes climbers to mature so be patient and let the set down roots for a while. Moving the roses now when you've just planted them won't set them back particularly but moving them next spring or the next when they start to overgrow their space may delay them maturing even longer What I'd recommend is not putting a rose on the trellises next to the front door. Those are ideal spots for the Jackmanii clematis and that's a vigorous enough clematis to more than fill those trellis spots. Here's what Jackmanii can do if you let it spread out to its heart's content - this is the purple spread out all along the back side of a maybe 10' square cage for my blueberries (again this is one clematis plant): You can contain Jackmanii more narrowly on your trellises but be prepared for a lot of foliage to rein in and encourage on the trellis. This is a different purple clem on the double shepherd's hook (swamped) plus a truly thuggish pink Princess Diana clem attacking a rose on the right. So, if you put the clematis on the trellises by the door, and ND to the side or sides of your house, you now have trellises that are open on the far ends of your house. If you want a rose there, you want something that will naturally stay narrow. Embothrium's suggestion of Aloha is a great one, and mine is cane hardy for me in zone 5. It stays no wider than about 3' if it has something to climb or lean on, and I can get away with loosely attaching mine to another shepherd's hook rather than a trellis, but it would prefer something like a trellis I'm sure. Do be aware that roses need to be attached (like with pantyhose strips or those green velcro plant holds) as opposed to clematis that attach themselves to things. Here's Aloha fairly early in the summer before she has put out a lot of laterals - you can see I hooked her under the support and she's just now starting to bloom off the sides that are facing vertical. She'll pretty much hide the hook by the end of the season, but you can tell that she's relatively happy being tall and narrow. Other hardy roses with similar narrow growth habits include Poseidon (a lavender) or Queen of Sweden (pink fluffy blooms) - neither of these are really climbers but they'll get to 6' or so in our zone and can either be attached to the trellis or climb in front of it. You'd have the option of putting the clematis on these side trellis panels too and then the tall narrow rose in front, and letting some of the tendrils of the clematis twine around the rose for the effect. Jackmanii is a vigorous enough clem to overwhelm a whole lot of climbing roses in our zones, so this might keep yours from being swamped. You can see in the clem photo previously that Scepter'd Isle (another relatively narrow growing rose) is totally being pulled off its usual 6' height by the clem and it's bending down to the height of the 3' A/C unit. The Canadian roses (like Quadra) could handle Jackmanii, but I don't know of any that climb that will stay narrow or mannerly enough for the spaces you have. You might not be able to find the roses we discuss at average nurseries or other stores around town, but there are several nice Canadian mail order nurseries that would sell you these roses at $20 or so, which is quite reasonable and they have great quality plants with more choices. You'd want to wait till spring to plant these though, since it's not an ideal time to plant roses to have them put down a good root system. You're of course free to plant what you want where you want it and if you're happy it's not a wrong choice, but we're sharing some advice to help you avoid frustration if possible. Cynthia...See MoreCan you train New Dawn and Eden Climbing roses to grow up a wall?
Comments (7)I live in the greater Toronto area and my zone is also 5b according to Canadian ranking. Eden is not cane hardy in my garden and I lost her two years ago. However ND is but not a monster yet. I do have a few canes and I am currently training it against the wall. I use a tall tomato cage but I am also fortunate that the main canes are sturdy and self supporting. The thinner canes I use bamboo stakes for now but if needed I can attach to the wooded fence....See Morelaura242424
8 years agojjpeace (zone 5b Canada)
8 years agolaura242424
8 years agoKristi North Mo zone 5b Jochims Davis
8 years agojjpeace (zone 5b Canada)
8 years agojjpeace (zone 5b Canada)
8 years agoPatty W. zone 5a Illinois
8 years agomad_gallica (z5 Eastern NY)
8 years agoKelly Tregaskis Collova
8 years agonanadollZ7 SWIdaho
8 years agonippstress - zone 5 Nebraska
8 years agoPatty W. zone 5a Illinois
8 years agojacqueline9CA
8 years agojjpeace (zone 5b Canada)
8 years agonippstress - zone 5 Nebraska
8 years agojjpeace (zone 5b Canada)
8 years agomcnastarana
8 years agoPatty W. zone 5a Illinois
8 years agojjpeace (zone 5b Canada)
8 years agotrue_blue
8 years agonippstress - zone 5 Nebraska
8 years agojjpeace (zone 5b Canada)
8 years agoKelly Tregaskis Collova
8 years agonippstress - zone 5 Nebraska
8 years ago
Related Stories
KITCHEN WORKBOOKNew Ways to Plan Your Kitchen’s Work Zones
The classic work triangle of range, fridge and sink is the best layout for kitchens, right? Not necessarily
Full StoryMOST POPULARKitchen Evolution: Work Zones Replace the Triangle
Want maximum efficiency in your kitchen? Consider forgoing the old-fashioned triangle in favor of task-specific zones
Full StoryMOST POPULAR5 Ways to Hide That Big Air Conditioner in Your Yard
Don’t sweat that boxy A/C unit. Here’s how to place it out of sight and out of mind
Full StoryTILEPorcelain vs. Ceramic Tile: A Five-Scenario Showdown
Explore where and why one of these popular tile choices makes more sense than the other
Full StoryLIFEThe Top 5 Ways to Save Water at Home
Get on the fast track to preserving a valuable resource and saving money too with these smart, effective strategies
Full StoryMOVING5 Risks in Buying a Short-Sale Home — and How to Handle Them
Don’t let the lure of a great deal blind you to the hidden costs and issues in snagging a short-sale property
Full StoryKITCHEN DESIGNNew This Week: 4 Ways to Punch Up a White Kitchen
Avoid the hospital look by introducing a bit of color, personality and contrast
Full StoryKITCHEN DESIGNNew This Week: 4 Subtle Design Ideas With Big Impact for Your Kitchen
You’ve got the cabinets, countertops and appliances in order. Now look for something to make your space truly stand out
Full StoryENTRYWAYSGlass Doors That Welcome — and Protect Your Privacy Too
These front-door designs let in the light but keep your air-guitar performances safely in-house
Full StoryCONTAINER GARDENS7 Deer-Resistant Flowers for Your Summer Containers
Grow these as protection for edibles or just for their colorful beauty — deer might not like them, but everyone else will
Full Story
nippstress - zone 5 Nebraska